Wood stove heat vs LVP

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

PA452

New Member
Jan 8, 2023
45
PA
I'm putting in a Lopi Endeavor in our new house build. It's going to sit on an elevated hearth covered with stone. The manual for the Endeavor recommends floor protection 16" out from the front of the stove, but it doesn't note if that changes any if the stove is on an elevated hearth.

We're using a floating LVP floor in the living room where this stove will sit. My builder says it will be ok, but I'm just trying to confirm and/or look into options. Anyone know if a floor protection buffer like this needs to be measured horizontally only? Or if it's elevated might I be able to factor that in? If the LVP would be a problem here, what sort of flooring is recommended in front of the stove?

Here's where our stove is going to sit:

L7JBZnh.jpg
 
The 16" is for ember protection, and anything else that may roll out of the door when you open the stove. Raising the hearth does not change that requirement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EbS-P
As careful as one might be, embers do come out of the stove from time to time. Having the required protection ( even a little more) is a good idea, even just so to protect nice flooring. Great looking hearth- your back will appreciate the added height of the stove. I have an insert that sits right on my level hearth floor and at my camp I have a freestanding stove on a raised heart of about 6 inches. I love the added height of that one.
 
The 16” is not a recommendation it’s a requirement. The only aspect I have seen height change is wether or not R value hearth protection is required and that was only for inserts.

Did the same contractor install the chimney? What kind and are you confident he did that to code?
 
The 16” is not a recommendation it’s a requirement. The only aspect I have seen height change is wether or not R value hearth protection is required and that was only for inserts.

Did the same contractor install the chimney? What kind and are you confident he did that to code?

What in the OP's message leads you to question the contractor? All he said is the lvp floor will be fine with the 16 inches.
 
Thanks guys, I wasn't thinking about embers, I was just thinking about heat. But that makes sense. As long as the LVP can handle the heat, I guess I could just lay down something for ember protection then?
 
Regarding the chimney and contractor, the chimney is Excel. My contractor is an old school guy, been doing this like 40-50 years. I generally have confidence in him though I will say the chimney makes me nervous. I have no real reason to be nervous, I just am because the chimney pipe is entirely encased in a chase where I can't see it or inspect it. I can inspect it from the inside of the chimney pipe of course. But due to all the fire breaks and such, the chase is well sealed up, no way to inspect there.

Here are some pics before the stone or anything went in.

TQC43BP.jpg


ULTsmUz.jpg
 
What in the OP's message leads you to question the contractor? All he said is the lvp floor will be fine with the 16 inches.
Nothing ,just asking. Chimney work is one of the few if not only mechanical install that a GC does.

I interpreted what was written as it would be ok to have less than 16” since it was elevated. Don’t think that’s the case. The question is will the LVP at 16” or more be ok. I don’t see Heat being an issue. The stuff gets softer when it’s hot. Easier to dent. Expansion should not be an issue if installed correctly so it has the required gaps to float.

It’s a pain to replace a single plank. Take some precautions during heating season.
 
I can say that each of my wood floors have burns in them, much farther than 16" from the front of the stove. Most occurred back when they were open fireplaces, but perhaps not all.

On an old wood floor, burns just add character. Not sure what a hot ember does to LVP, whatever that is (Laminate Vinyl... what?).
 
I can say that each of my wood floors have burns in them, much farther than 16" from the front of the stove. Most occurred back when they were open fireplaces, but perhaps not all.

On an old wood floor, burns just add character. Not sure what a hot ember does to LVP, whatever that is (Laminate Vinyl... what?).
It certainly would burn/melt in through the clear protective layer. I have some scraps lying around some time I’ll toss a hot coal on it to see what happens. I think the real question is how long until it creates a self fueling fire. Seconds or minutes? There are the ones that have more of stone like composite core and then there are the planks that have an all plastic core. I have installed both the stone core are much stiffer and thicker and in my case more expensive. I wonder if they have different properties related to combustion
 
One more reason to never leave a stove unattended with the door open. I won't pretend I've never had coals explode in the stove on a hot reload, throwing spark showers out thru the open door. But I'm there to step on or sweep up any significant embers that escape, in that process.
 
I think LVP is luxury vinyl plank, but I could be wrong
 
  • Like
Reactions: begreen
You are correct. I would just put a wool hearth rug in front of the stove.
Yes, LVP does not like high heat. The raised hearth will certainly help.

Personally, I am not a fan of covering a floor with PVC flooring but if this is a budget issue, then the idea of a wool or fiberglass hearth rug for additional protection would help. It may need some attachment points to keep it from slipping around.
 
Yes, LVP does not like high heat. Years ago there was a poster that installed a new stove The raised hearth will certainly help.

Personally, I am not a fan of covering a floor with PVC flooring but if this is a budget issue, then the idea of a wool or fiberglass hearth rug for additional protection would help. It may need some attachment points to keep it from slipping around.

I wouldn't necessarily call it a budget floor, some of the LVP flooring out today is just as expensive as hardwood. I recently installed some in my wife's office and it was not very budget friendly. Cost the same as a floating wood floor would have but it looks great and so far is holding up great. It's come a long way in the last decade.
 
Indeed, new, engineered finishes are tough. I just don't like the idea of putting a lot of plastic in home construction. Issues with slow outgassing and problems with recycling at the end of life are bothersome.
 
I found something, somewhere (where...?) that recommended 57" from glass face to LVP when I was planning our floor in the Northwoods. It will probably depend on what the manufacturer recommends if you can find anything. I tiled out to 58".

16881818425438492330568433851193.jpg

Note that the hearthstones are currently not in place.

FYI - my wife works for a flooring installation company (discount baby!). The project manager that helped us with planning recommended glueing LVP down at entryways and in front of the fireplace to reduce movement and separation.
 
Nice looking setup. And interesting on the gluing down at entryways, I'll have to look into that. I know my builder does not plan on doing that.
 
Indeed, new, engineered finishes are tough. I just don't like the idea of putting a lot of plastic in home construction. Issues with slow outgassing and problems with recycling at the end of life are bothersome.

Well, I hope the outgassing isn't too serious, because we opted to floor almost the whole house in that stuff. My wife hates carpet. Only one room in the whole house got carpet, and the master bathroom and laundry got tile.
 
Nothing ,just asking. Chimney work is one of the few if not only mechanical install that a GC does.

I interpreted what was written as it would be ok to have less than 16” since it was elevated. Don’t think that’s the case. The question is will the LVP at 16” or more be ok. I don’t see Heat being an issue. The stuff gets softer when it’s hot. Easier to dent. Expansion should not be an issue if installed correctly so it has the required gaps to float.

It’s a pain to replace a single plank. Take some precautions during heating season.

Yeah, my builder didn't say anything about it being ok to have less than 16" of floor pro because it was elevated. I misinterpreted the purpose of the 16" floor pro as being for heat, and I was questioning if the elevation might change that. I get it now though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EbS-P
I found something, somewhere (where...?) that recommended 57" from glass face to LVP when I was planning our floor in the Northwoods. It will probably depend on what the manufacturer recommends if you can find anything. I tiled out to 58".

View attachment 313597

Note that the hearthstones are currently not in place.

FYI - my wife works for a flooring installation company (discount baby!). The project manager that helped us with planning recommended glueing LVP down at entryways and in front of the fireplace to reduce movement and separation.

If it is a floating floor you can't glue any of it down, that would not allow for expansion and contraction which would eventually lead to the floor separating.
 
If it is a floating floor you can't glue any of it down, that would not allow for expansion and contraction which would eventually lead to the floor separating.
I was shocked when I was given the advice...

Supposedly glueing the edges at entryways and the edge by the fireplace allows it to expand in the direction away from the glue only, keeping the LVP from separating from the threshold or tile. The glue used is a bit rubbery so it can flex a little while still keeping the LVP in place.
 
I think LVP is luxury vinyl plank, but I could be wrong
I was going to make a joke that "luxury" and "vinyl" are antonyms, and couldn't possibly be used in the same product name... but there you have it. Wow, that's some creative branding. :rolleyes:

If they manage to pull off a reasonable faux wood finish on vinyl, how will it wear and look after several years of living on it, especially in front of a wood stove? I can imagine the feel under foot is probably not bad, soft pine flooring and vinyl don't feel that different under foot, but I can't imagine any vinyl product maintaining a convincing faux wood look after years of traffic on it.

One nice thing about wood floors is that every dent and ding only shows its character more. Wife drops a laptop computer and puts a big ding in the pine floors, "Yep, that's real wood." I have an ember leap out of the stove and burn a spot in the finish, "yep... must be real wood." Got dogs? Oh chit! I'd hate to see spots of colored plastic after these and other injuries.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ctwoodtick
I was going to make a joke that "luxury" and "vinyl" are antonyms, and couldn't possibly be used in the same product name... but there you have it. Wow, that's some creative branding. :rolleyes:

If they manage to pull off a reasonable faux wood finish on vinyl, how will it wear and look after several years of living on it, especially in front of a wood stove? I can imagine the feel under foot is probably not bad, soft pine flooring and vinyl don't feel that different under foot, but I can't imagine any vinyl product maintaining a convincing faux wood look after years of traffic on it.

One nice thing about wood floors is that every dent and ding only shows its character more. Wife drops a laptop computer and puts a big ding in the pine floors, "Yep, that's real wood." I have an ember leap out of the stove and burn a spot in the finish, "yep... must be real wood." Got dogs? Oh chit! I'd hate to see spots of colored plastic after these and other injuries.

You would be surprised how well it holds up. And I have a dog who is terrified of having her nails cut. The wear layer on my vinyl plank flooring is thicker than the layer of polyurethane on my wood floors.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
Well, I hope the outgassing isn't too serious, because we opted to floor almost the whole house in that stuff. My wife hates carpet. Only one room in the whole house got carpet, and the master bathroom and laundry got tile.
My wife would agree. We put in white oak flooring on the first floor and natural bamboo upstairs. The bamboo has a tough aluminum oxide coating that has shown no wear after 20 yrs of service. The oak floors have a Swedish finish that is 17 yrs old. It is showing signs of local wear in the dining area from chair scuffs, in spite of felt protectors.