Wood stove/pipe/liner install questions

[WesM]

I'm planning out my wood stove install. One thing that I was wondering about is the connection between the T and the stove pipe. The hole in the brick surround for the stove pipe is 8" diameter and the T for my 6" flex liner that comes through the masonry chimney/block wall/brick surround is 6.25" diameter. Should I just stuff in rockwool around the T pipe to fill the gap?

 

[clancey]

That's a good question and cannot wait to see the answer to that one...mrs clancey

 

[stoveliker]

Is this a stove in an old fireplace?

Then I'd install an insulated block off plate to close it - preventing much heat from going up.

 

[WesM]

I realize my description might not have been the best, here is a quick mockup I did of what I am trying to describe. The area in red is what I am trying to figure out what to do with. The area between the T pipe and the opening, should I fill with Rock wool or other alternative?

 

[stoveliker]

Ok. I think you can do that yes. @bholler would know for sure. You can (I have) a metal ring around the stove pipe and against the brick, blocking the view of that part.

No fiberglass. Rockwool (something rated to high temps; fiberglass is not).

 

[WesM]

Ok. I think you can do that yes. @bholler would know for sure. You can (I have) a metal ring around the stove pipe and against the brick, blocking the view of that part.

No fiberglass. Rockwool (something rated to high temps; fiberglass is not).

Yes I have a cover plate for that. I am mainly wanting to support the T (if that is even necessary?) and also stop cold air from getting through that 1" space around the T pipe.

 

[bholler]

Yes I have a cover plate for that. I am mainly wanting to support the T (if that is even necessary?) and also stop cold air from getting through that 1" space around the T pipe.

It should be stuffed with insulation. We usually use scrap insulation left from insulating the liner. We then mortar over that insulation.

 

[WesM]

I have a quick question about the liner. I had read about some liners are directional, but I don't see anything about that in the instructions for this liner. Are you guys able to tell if this is directional or not?

 

[WesM]

Got it all installed! I just have to screw the stove pipe together, then can get the final county inspection before I fire it up.

I did not have enough of the insulation left over from the liner install, so I just stuffed the cavity with rockwool I had leftover from another project.

 

[stoveliker]

Clean looking set up!
Happy burning. You do have dry wood?

 

[TheBigIron]

That looks awesome, nice job. Keep us posted on your first couple of burns…

 

[WesM]

Clean looking set up!
Happy burning. You do have dry wood?

I have a local guy who has 2 yr old seasoned split oak I can buy. Will probably get some from him this winter. My inlaws have oaks they take down every year or two, that will keep me supplied for as long as I want. I am also taking down a huge osage orange this spring, but that stuff takes forever to dry. A local wood shop makes compressed wood blocks from their hardwood sawdust/chips, so I will probably give them a try too.

 

[stoveliker]

Sounds good!

If I were you, I'd buy a flue probe (e.g. from condar) - it'll help you tremendously to dial in the stove (and not push too much heat up the flue rather than into the room). Mount it about 18" up from the stove.

And a moisture meter. Depending on how the wood was stacked, covered, oriented wrt sun and wind, it could still be on the wet side (for oak). Likely ok, but it's nice to know for sure you're getting your money's worth when burning.

Also, I suggest a sooteater; do you have a telescoping section? That's easiest. Take it out, stick the sooteater in (e.g.thru a bag taped to the pipe) and clean (to see what comes down) your chimney. Knowing you burn well and clean makes one sleep better. And midwinter cleaning by professionals is tough as they are often busy. Doing that e.g. once a month the first year, makes you know what you are doing to your chimney. And if all is fine, you can decrease the frequency but still have the capability at home to clean if need be.

Just suggestions for a better (more informed) burning experience.

 

[WesM]

Sounds good!

If I were you, I'd buy a flue probe (e.g. from condar) - it'll help you tremendously to dial in the stove (and not push too much heat up the flue rather than into the room). Mount it about 18" up from the stove.

And a moisture meter. Depending on how the wood was stacked, covered, oriented wrt sun and wind, it could still be on the wet side (for oak). Likely ok, but it's nice to know for sure you're getting your money's worth when burning.

Also, I suggest a sooteater; do you have a telescoping section? That's easiest. Take it out, stick the sooteater in (e.g.thru a bag taped to the pipe) and clean (to see what comes down) your chimney. Knowing you burn well and clean makes one sleep better. And midwinter cleaning by professionals is tough as they are often busy. Doing that e.g. once a month the first year, makes you know what you are doing to your chimney. And if all is fine, you can decrease the frequency but still have the capability at home to clean if need be.

Just suggestions for a better (more informed) burning experience.

Thanks for the suggestions! I already have a good wood moisture meter (woodworking hobby) and I plan on getting a sooteater.

I setup my stove pipe so its easy to remove the entire assembly by taking out 6 screws. Figure I can take the whole section outside and hit it with the sooteater, then blow it out with my leaf blower. For the chimney liner I plan on using the sooteater and then trying out the leaf blower/suction technique, since I have one.

I will look into the flue probe from Condar. Is there a typical temp the flue should be running at?

 

[stoveliker]

Thanks for the suggestions! I already have a good wood moisture meter (woodworking hobby) and I plan on getting a sooteater.

I setup my stove pipe so its easy to remove the entire assembly by taking out 6 screws. Figure I can take the whole section outside and hit it with the sooteater, then blow it out with my leaf blower. For the chimney liner I plan on using the sooteater and then trying out the leaf blower/suction technique, since I have one.

I will look into the flue probe from Condar.

Great. That's precisely how I deal with my pipe section.

Regarding the moisture meter, make sure you measure in the right range. (Lumber is muh drier than firewood, and some moisture meters have two ranges. Not sure about meters specifically for woodworking (I am not that far with the hobby -yet!).

Enjoy. And we all enjoy some good pics when it's burning.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

We have a magnetic thermometer and it says 300-350. Not sure how that translates to a probe style.