Wood Stove Replacement Gaskets?

[teekal]

Hey guys, a bit of a 2-part question for you.

a) for those of you with wood stoves, how often do you replace the gaskets (both on the front doors and on the top hatch).

b) where is the best place to find replacement gaskets? I have an Encore wood burning stove, if that helps any.

Thanks for any information!

 

[Tenn Dave]

a) When needed. Don't fix it if it's not broke

b) I plan on getting mine directly from the stove manufacturer. I like to use original manufacturer equipment whenever possible unless an improved product exists.

 

[DougA]

I used to have a Vermont Castings with both top & front doors and I found the gaskets needed to be replaced at least every five years but I burn hot 24/7 all winter. The top gasket gets wear from occasional rubbing pieces of wood when you're loading but mostly, the top gets all of the blast from the heat.
I've used both original mfg. and stuff from HD and specialty wood stores. FWIW, the HD gasket was just as good and 1/3 of the price. Take a good look at the gasket type as some are soft, some hard. The key is to ensure you have cleaned the channel very well. I use a softer wire brush on a drill.

 

[teekal]

This forum never ceases to amaze me. Always such informative answers. Thanks guys!

 

[firefighterjake]

a) When needed. Don't fix it if it's not broke

b) I plan on getting mine directly from the stove manufacturer. I like to use original manufacturer equipment whenever possible unless an improved product exists.

+1 . . . Just keep doing the "dollar bill test" every year. If the gaskets pass muster, no replacement needed. I'm still working on my original gaskets.

 

[DougA]

Just keep doing the "dollar bill test" every year. If the gaskets pass muster, no replacement needed. I'm still working on my original gaskets.

Yes & no. My criteria is if I am getting too much air leakage and the load is burning too fast, change gaskets. Sometimes that's hard to tell if your wood is not the same and you don't know what the cause is. On my old VC, it went from burning fast to uncontrollably fast in a few months. I guess it depends a lot on stove designs, so your mileage will vary. The VC was not the best design, for sure.
I like 'er tight, real tight .....

On my Equinox, I put on new gaskets when I got it because the old ones looked pretty bad. And mostly because I wanted to start as new as possible. I still cannot turn the air down as much as I would like but that's a stove issue, not gaskets. I needed to know that and not blame something else. For the last few days, the lowest setting has been perfect, just when it's 32 outside that I'd prefer a slower burn.

 

[Woody Stover]

Take a good look at the gasket type as some are soft, some hard. The key is to ensure you have cleaned the channel very well. I use a softer wire brush on a drill.

That's why lately I've just bit the bullet and bought the OEM gaskets; Then there's no question that you're getting the right density gasket for the application. When I re-gasketed the Dutchwest, I used an angle grinder with a cable-twist brush. I still had to clean the corners of cement but not too much. I wasn't worried that I would put any wear on the gasket grooves; Cast iron is pretty hard stuff. Just try sawing it sometime...

On my Equinox, I put on new gaskets when I got it because the old ones looked pretty bad. And mostly because I wanted to start as new as possible. I still cannot turn the air down as much as I would like

I re-did the Buck a few months back, including the glass gasket and bay windows. I don't know if that helped because I of course did the door gasket, too. But the glass is staying really clean now...