Just installed my Englander 30 NCL. After the first night I brought the temp up to 600 and of course created one hell of a smell through the house. Fired her up yesterday morning and reached 400 without any smell. Just wondering if anyone has a guide as far as temperature ranges to operate the stove. What is the max temp the stove and pipe should reach? What is a safe temp range of operation both on the stove top and in the double wall pipe? Any assistance would be appreciated.
Wood stove temp operation
- Thread starter RISurfer20
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I use a magnetic thermo sitting centered four inches back from the front of the stove. Most of the time I run the stove at 450 to 550. Since we burn around the clock I don't need hotter than that to maintain a warm house. With the right technique it can cruise cleanly at 350 which is perfect for all day burns in moderately cold weather. If the place has cooled down for whatever reason I will take it up to six hundred for a while to warm up the joint and then level out at 500. Five hundred is my preferred burning temp. This is with the blower running and it is the same as running it at 600 with the blower turned off. The stove can handle higher temps I am sure, the fellow that designed it says it has a beautiful burn at 800, but I don't plan on finding out. He gets stoves for the lab for free. I have to buy mine. I just burn hot enough to take care of the heating needs. I did all of the thousand degree burns in my old stove that I need in this life. With the large expanse of steel on the 30 it tosses at lot of heat at five or six hundred degree stove top temps and the steel stove makers that do talk about max temps refer to over 700 as overfiring.
Flue temp will depend on the the point in the burn cycle and where the thermo is placed. An eight or nine hundred degree internal flue temp is not unusual during startup. Last year I ran a prob thermo in the pipe and with my "in fireplace" configuration could not place it higher than eight inches higher than the flue collar. That close the readings after start-up were fairly close to the stove top reading. Since I replaced the liner this year I just left the pipe probe out of the equation and will only use stove top temp this year. There isn't any place to stick a magnetic one on the stainless and I don't want to poke a hole in this adapter. With double wall pipe you will need to get a good probe thermo with a probe long enough to reach the center of the pipe if you want to monitor flue gas temps.
Welcome to the world of burning the 30-NC. I think you will love that big hoss. Get us some pics up.
Flue temp will depend on the the point in the burn cycle and where the thermo is placed. An eight or nine hundred degree internal flue temp is not unusual during startup. Last year I ran a prob thermo in the pipe and with my "in fireplace" configuration could not place it higher than eight inches higher than the flue collar. That close the readings after start-up were fairly close to the stove top reading. Since I replaced the liner this year I just left the pipe probe out of the equation and will only use stove top temp this year. There isn't any place to stick a magnetic one on the stainless and I don't want to poke a hole in this adapter. With double wall pipe you will need to get a good probe thermo with a probe long enough to reach the center of the pipe if you want to monitor flue gas temps.
Welcome to the world of burning the 30-NC. I think you will love that big hoss. Get us some pics up.
You have just been subjected to "Curing". Usually new stoves must both "cure" the finish as well as burn off any oils and/or crud from the MFG process. Typically this is done by starting a small fire and then let it cool. Go to a med fire and let it cool, etc. Your manual should outline this process. Each time you hit a new "high" temp, you will probably notice a new smell. Totally normal. 600 ain't hurtin' that box. Bro B and Corie should be along to maybe assist with real world numbers for ya. Welcome to the forum.
***edit***Dangit Bro B, you type faster than I do.
***edit***Dangit Bro B, you type faster than I do.
a fellow member did the calculations on surface heat transferee ( hot Flame) At 450 surface temps to 600 degrees the surface produced about 100% more heat at 600 degrees than 450
How do you get the stove to stay at 450 to 550, the air control where do you keep it.
BrotherBart said:
Ernie, the stoves won't stay at one temperature over the burn cycle. You basically control the high number and then as the fire slows, you then start opening the draft a little further. On our stove, once we set the draft (very low) after reload, we simply leave it alone until the wood has almost burned down to coals. At that point we'll start opening the draft more and more. Sometimes we just simply open it full once the stove gets down to maybe 400 degrees (depends on how cold it is outside and inside). By opening the draft like that, you will have better luck in burning down the coals. Otherwise you will end up with such a huge coal bed there is not much space to put new fuel.
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