Rockey said:
Well if the 7100 is out what is going to be my best option here? Which large stoves work with a lined masonry chimney with a run of about 30-35'? Ideally I would like to use a fireplace that has ductwork to get the heat upstairs but if my masonry chimney is going to limit me then I need to look at other options.
www.overstockstoves.com
model 50-tnc-30 epa rated secondary burn almost smokeless stove,799.oo including shipping. Rated for 2,200 sq ft This is sales price. HD normal price is 1039.oo
lowes normal price 999.95
This is a model of
www.englanderstoves.com which also make the summersheat name , which is the same stove, interchaingeable parts, with different trim & a lower price at lowes.
summersheat model # 50-snc-30l
englander model 50-30ncl
englanderstoves are sold at home depot,ace hardware,tru value hardware, lowes. See list of dealers on
www.englanderstoves.com for more.
englander also makes 2 or 3 models of ADD ON WOOD FURNACES, that give more heat than
the 2,200 sq ft of the 50-30ncl ,BUT, THE FURNACES ARE NOT SECONDARY BURN & the consume more wood & smoke more & reg price is 1299.00 & up. but theY do come with a
8 inch or 10 inch collar & a really big kick butt blower motor designed to blow the heat thru a long run of duck work.
wOOD CAN BE FREE , if you want to be a free wood scrounger. I burn 3 yrs without paying cent 1 for wood & save 12,000.oo in fuel oil costs because I no buy any oil ,while doing it.
So the englander stove was the best 800.oo I ever spent in my entire life & I'm 60, so thats
a lot of spending experience. Was costing me 3000.oo - 4000.oo yr for fuel oil to heat 3000sq ft.
My summersheat heats the basement & first floor very nicely ,But the heat don't reach the second floor, so I have cold storage rooms on the second floor. I live & bed room on the first floor, so a 58 deg second floor is not an issue for me. First floor is 72 to 79 depending on the room, 5 rooms on first floor.
I could get heat up to second floor if I cut register holes, 1 for hot air up & 1 for cold air return to basement , with the hot air up register having a small electric fan. I would have to have a hot & cold register for every room in the second floor & another set of registers for eevery room below them. So this could be a 500.oo project, but well worth the time & money. I just don't really have the need for it, as I dont need the second floor for much.
If I had the need ,it would have been done 2 years ago.
I like the idea of the free standing stove with electric floor registers as I know your wood bill will be cheaper by at least 1/3 if not 1/2, & over a 10 year period ,that adds up to a lot of $.
ROCKY, i just reread your post, & you heat 2600sq ft & 1200 sq ft for total heat requirement of 3800 sq ft
If you run your insert & your 50-tnc-30 wood stove ,that give 1200 insert & 2200 wood stove
equal 3400 , so you most probably be fine on all but the coldest days, so that the heat register idea will work.
But if you want to look at the add on basement wood furnaces, it cost you a little more initial investment & more for wood, as it do burn more wood, but gives more btu /hr as well.
PLEASE REMEMBER,THAT DURING A POWER OUTAGE ,THE ADD ON WOOD FURNACES blower
wont work & you will have to turn down or off the fire as the wood furnace will over heat
without the blower & with the flames going full bore.
You may be able to keep a small fire going for some heat from the wood furnace , but without the blower going,it is not designed to ratiate the heat that it makes , it is an electric fan forced convection heater, never designed for no electricity radiant heat.
The 50-30ncl & all other models of that stove as well , are designed for full output without electric blower. In fact, the electric blower is a extra cost option,159.95 & ship & does not come wih any of their stoves.
available
www.englanderstoves.com under your stoves model # then click on accessories.
P.S. I forget to say that I'm no expert, just a highly knowledgeable amauter, but I near an expert,he lives two doors down from me. %-P
