WoodPro TS 2000

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

grnsl2

Member
Sep 16, 2015
5
Suburb of Cleveland
Newer to burning wood, so bear with me a bit. I have some pains with a Wood Pro TS 2000. I purchased it a few years back thinking the window view FP would be a nice addition to the family room. Seem to have some drafting issues. Brand new chimney when the house was built, never used till I hooked it up. Wondering if the clay stack is to large for the 6 inch pipe leading into it. Had a chimney sweep come out this fall and he said, we def have some glossy Creosote close to where the pipe empties into the chimney. Further up, no issue and it cleaned well. We've been trying to get the stove heated up but seems to be a challenge. Trying to weed things out and figure out next steps.

Feels like it could be the unit itself, or maybe the drafting? I feel like the wood is dry that we're using but I'm not an expert there (no meter to measure). Can add that we take only downed trees, split them up and let them sit for quite a while to dry over the summer. Reading in the forum seems like others need to leave the door open a bit to get enough burn to heat up.

Maybe we start here, is this the correct way to measure the temp of the pipe?



[Hearth.com] WoodPro TS 2000
[Hearth.com] WoodPro TS 2000
 
How tall is your chimney?

You may want to pick up a moisture meter just to rule out the easy stuff.. some wood needs 2 years plus to dry.
 
Had a similar problem in a previous home, it was not the stove as we could get that to throw lots of heat very easily, my stove was exhausting in too large a chimney with clay tile, I believe it was 8x12 clay tiles.
 
How tall is your chimney?

You may want to pick up a moisture meter just to rule out the easy stuff.. some wood needs 2 years plus to dry.
Going to say roughly 25. Standard two story house this is on the first floor.

Decent moisture meter he recommend that won't break the bank?
Had a similar problem in a previous home, it was not the stove as we could get that to throw lots of heat very easily, my stove was exhausting in too large a chimney with clay tile, I believe it was 8x12 clay tiles.
Similar story maybe here. Opening of our clay tile is 7x10. To large? 🤷
 
Yes, the flue is too large. It’s hard to heat it up enough to really draft.

Home Depot looks like they have a couple for sale. I’d use them as a general guideline, not as gospel. When you’re trying to burn wet wood, the fire needs to cook off the water before it can start heating up the flue, and you! I’d stick the probes into something that you know is dry, like a 2x4, then split a piece of wood that you want to burn after it reaches room temperature and measure the insides with the wood grain. If the 2x reads 7% and the gathered wood reads over 20, you have found one thing keeping you from a good burn.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kcmclellan
Yes, the flue is too large. It’s hard to heat it up enough to really draft.

Home Depot looks like they have a couple for sale. I’d use them as a general guideline, not as gospel. When you’re trying to burn wet wood, the fire needs to cook off the water before it can start heating up the flue, and you! I’d stick the probes into something that you know is dry, like a 2x4, then split a piece of wood that you want to burn after it reaches room temperature and measure the insides with the wood grain. If the 2x reads 7% and the gathered wood reads over 20, you have found one thing keeping you from a good burn.
Kinda wondered that... is a chimney liner really the best/only solution?
Also, is the placement of the thermometer correct? Just a magnet on a screw...
 
The flue gas temp is low but there isn't a lot of fuel in the stove. While flame is present it should be more like 300º-350º.

The wood should be checked by resplitting a thick, room-temperature split or two in half and then tested for moisture content. If lacking a meter, press the freshly exposed face of the wood against your cheek. If it feels cool and damp, the wood needs more drying time. Ask Santa for a General MMD4E moisture meter for Christmas. It's affordable.

As noted, the flue is too large. By going from a 28 sq in area stove pipe to a 70 sq in flue tile, it is slowing down and cooling the flue gases excessively. If the chimney is exterior, it's adding insult to injury.

Does the stove have an outside air connection? New houses are often fairly tight these days which can lead to a starving fire. If no OAK on the stove, try opening a close by window 1/2" and see if the fire perks up along with a flue temp rise.
 
  • Like
Reactions: grnsl2
The flue gas temp is low but there isn't a lot of fuel in the stove. While flame is present it should be more like 300º-350º.
Gotcha, thermomiter location seem okay?
The wood should be checked by resplitting a thick, room-temperature split or two in half and then tested for moisture content. If lacking a meter, press the freshly exposed face of the wood against your cheek. If it feels cool and damp, the wood needs more drying time. Ask Santa for a General MMD4E moisture meter for Christmas. It's affordable.
Awesome info, thanks, and we'll do it.
As noted, the flue is too large. By going from a 28 sq in area stove pipe to a 70 sq in flue tile, it is slowing down and cooling the flue gases excessively. If the chimney is exterior, it's adding insult to injury.
Most the chimney runs through the house, probably 1 side for 12 feet, and all 4 sides the last 3 or 4.
[Hearth.com] WoodPro TS 2000


Does the stove have an outside air connection? New houses are often fairly tight these days which can lead to a starving fire. If no OAK on the stove, try opening a close by window 1/2" and see if the fire perks up along with a flue temp rise.
House was built in 1991 or so, seems like there's plenty of cool air coming in here and there, but could be something worth noting. I have smelled smoke from the other chimney that's not being used from time to time.
 
I have smelled smoke from the other chimney that's not being used from time to time.
That's probably because they both terminate at the same height. They shouldn't.
 
The wood should be checked by resplitting a thick, room-temperature split or two in half and then tested for moisture content. If lacking a meter, press the freshly exposed face of the wood against your cheek. If it feels cool and damp, the wood needs more drying time. Ask Santa for a General MMD4E moisture meter for Christmas. It's affordable.
Santa came early this thing is easy to use, thanks for the advice!

As noted, the flue is too large. By going from a 28 sq in area stove pipe to a 70 sq in flue tile, it is slowing down and cooling the flue gases excessively. If the chimney is exterior, it's adding insult to injury.
Newbie question here: Would this stove have more air pulled through it if there was the stove pipe size was running all the way up?
 
think of it like water,shallow thin river water is forced through,same volume of water but double depth and width you have a calm creek that slowly flows.you want the small river.
 
  • Like
Reactions: grnsl2
Santa came early this thing is easy to use, thanks for the advice!
Nice!
Newbie question here: Would this stove have more air pulled through it if there was the stove pipe size was running all the way up?
The velocity and draft strength would be greater.
 
  • Like
Reactions: grnsl2