Woodshed built with landscaping timbers. Thoughts?

[EbS-P]

I need a wood shed. With the price of lumber, almost 9$ for a treated 8 ft 2x4, I am considering landscaping timbers and cheapest flat head 5” screws Amazon has to offer. I know they aren’t straight and true but with some chainsaw carpentry and a string i can make three sides and a top. I figure my materials cost for a 7’x15’ — 4-5 cord, shed would be about 450$. It’s not going to win any beauty contests but it would be quick to construct, cheap and keep the rain off. We have had 16+ inches in the last 3 months. Well above normal, but par for the course the last few years.

The biggest issue I foresee is getting the roof plane flat with timber perlins. Happy to hear your thoughts.

Evan

 

[orlkc]

I don't see a problem with the landscape timbers. Not sure I'd go with the cheapest screws though. Dealing with sheared off or stripped screws is annoying. For anything large why not use bolts rather than flathead screws?

If the roof slopes away from the side you approach from then your goal is flat enough for the roof to work, not getting it perfecly flat.

 

[SpaceBus]

My chicken coop roof came out a bit weird using imperfect rough sawn, but still works fine.

 

[GENECOP]

In the correct hands , anything can be built with just about any kind of wood...Taking away weathering concerns which don’t apply with landscape ties , sounds like a plan, I second the assertion that cheap screws won’t serve the cause..Get some nice Star Head 3” Ext Screws and a few Timber Truss coated screws..

 

[EbS-P]

I don't see a problem with the landscape timbers. Not sure I'd go with the cheapest screws though. Dealing with sheared off or stripped screws is annoying. For anything large why not use bolts rather than flathead screws?

If the roof slopes away from the side you approach from then your goal is flat enough for the roof to work, not getting it perfecly flat.

I build the play cube below with timberlok screws. They worked really well. It’s fast and sturdy. At about 0.75$ a screw they are not cheap and I don’t come locally in 5” lengths. (The cheaper 5” ones are 0.28$ Each) I thought this might be a good time to try a cheaper alternative. I didn’t count up how many I need should probably do that before order. If I do think the hex head is better than the star/torx if I had to choose.

Thanks for the feed back

Evan

 

[Caw]

I use landscape timbers for the base of all my wood stacks. When you buy them each one has a giant tag that says "not for structural use" you have to rip off. They are made from the center of the tree, definitely not straight, and seem prone to cracking.

That said I have 8 cords racked up on them on cinder blocks and only notice minimal bowing. I don't think I'd do it here because I'd be worried about a big snow load but since you're in SC I think you'd be totally fine.

One thing to consider is that the majority of the structure does not have to be PT. Any headers/rafters can be regular lumber...they will be directly under the roof! If you have access to any natural timber 3" round branches could work for rafters. You could even reclaim 2x4s etc from pallets. For my 2 cord lean-to roofs I use cost about $250 each total using all new deck supports, PT 4x4s, non PT for the rest of the lumber, sheet metal roof, and regular construction screws...this is a few months ago pricing. Plans could easily be adjusted for more space.

If you go with the timbers I'd say the same as everyone else, don't go budget on the fasteners. If anything you'll need better ones because the wood isn't gonna be flush everywhere.

Best of luck, share pics when its done!

 

[gzecc]

I would search CL and FB for deck wood renovations. Usually not pretty but true. I would also use some bolts it key areas. Can also use nails if you pre drill through 4x4s.

 

[SpaceBus]

Personally I prefer to use nails in load bearing applications. My battery operated nailgun makes building with nails a breeze and nails are stronger.

 

[GENECOP]

Personally I prefer to use nails in load bearing applications. My battery operated nailgun makes building with nails a breeze and nails are stronger.

 

[EbS-P]

Personally I prefer to use nails in load bearing applications. My battery operated nailgun makes building with nails a breeze and nails are stronger.

I forgot my dad has a pneumatic framing nailer.

 

[SpaceBus]

I forgot my dad has a pneumatic framing nailer.

I have an electric framing nailer, pneumatic siding/fencing gun, 7/16" pneumatic stapler, and an electric trim stapler. These tools paid for themselves when we renovated the exterior of our house down to the studs.

 

[SpaceBus]

View attachment 275934

Cool, I use a similar product frequently. Nails are still stronger in shear strength than screws of the same length. It's actually against code to use screws for framing a house. Screws are for deck boards, not framing.

 

[Eureka]

It's actually against code to use screws for framing a house. Screws are for deck boards, not framing.

Na-uh, Mike Holmes screws everything so it’s good

 

[SpaceBus]

Na-uh, Mike Holmes screws everything so it’s good

This is probably a joke, but it's over my head either way!

 

[shortys7777]

I plan on doing something similar. Not as big as yours though. I'm going to dumpster dive for thrown out lumber from builders and renovations. A basic 2x4 here is $6 now. My storage area wont be seen by many as its going to be behind my shed. Hoping to get something that holds 2 cords.

 

[andym]

I fail to see how a power nailer will help in assembling landscape timbers. Aren't they usually thicker than 3", the standard length of framing 'spikes'? Hence the OP about 5" screws?

 

[WoodBurnerInWI]

Well I did splurge for treated 6 ft ground timber sections and 2x4s to make my wood shed. This spring I plan on painting non treated boards in my shed with weather proof green paint to add a bit of color and protect the non treated woods. I have everything held together with 3" and 5" galvanized wood screws and haven't had an issue with anything blowing apart in extreme wind events or severe t-storms. Before holding everything together with the wood screws I just used nails to hold the wood together and rocks and heavy wood pieces to hold my roof on. One severe t-storm later and my wood shed was pretty much in my neighbors yard. So lesson learned and now it's all bolted together nice and tight.

 

[SpaceBus]

I fail to see how a power nailer will help in assembling landscape timbers. Aren't they usually thicker than 3", the standard length of framing 'spikes'? Hence the OP about 5" screws?

Is he not fastening regular dimensional 2x lumber to them? Perhaps I misunderstood.

 

[EbS-P]

Is he not fastening regular dimensional 2x lumber to them? Perhaps I misunderstood.

It’s all fair game at this point. I wasn’t planning on 2xs but now you bring it up that seems like a decent plan. Nothing is faster than the nailer. Speed matters as I never have enough time to get everything done.

Cost difference between nails and screws buys some lumber

 

[GENECOP]

Cool, I use a similar product frequently. Nails are still stronger in shear strength than screws of the same length. It's actually against code to use screws for framing a house. Screws are for deck boards, not framing.

The image I posted wasn’t a deck screw..
All structural ledgers and header work require these types of fasteners of lags bolts around here, they would never except nails in the conditions I am referring to...
(broken link removed to https://www.grkfasteners.com/getattachment/126d6b66-8378-40a0-8be3-f68373c97375/RSS-Product-Information)

		SHEAR
* 16d common nail	.162”	138 lb.
* 16d sinker	.148”	115 lb.
* 16d box (nail gun)	.131”	95 lb.
* #6 screw	.138	71 lb.

 

[Mutineer]

My only concern is that those landscape 3"x5" timbers are not going to hold up to ground contact. Back in the day I had several of the original nasty formulation ones that are still out in my woodlot serving well, but the more recent versions of them tend to rot consistently when in ground contact after a few years.

 

[Rusty18]

I plan on doing something similar. Not as big as yours though. I'm going to dumpster dive for thrown out lumber from builders and renovations. A basic 2x4 here is $6 now. My storage area wont be seen by many as its going to be behind my shed. Hoping to get something that holds 2 cords.

2x4 8’ reg is $9.57 here. For some reason everyone is going back to building with rough cut right off the local band mill(s).

 

[SpaceBus]

2x4 8’ reg is $9.57 here. For some reason everyone is going back to building with rough cut right off the local band mill(s).

At $10 for a 2x4 can you blame them?

 

[Rusty18]

At $10 for a 2x4 can you blame them?

Nope, I’m glad to see more of the local guys getting some business too boot. I do my precision cuts with a chainsaw so rough cut works just fine for most of my projects. Grandpa had an old wore out frick...stuff off a band mill is like using factory processed stuff!

i was trying to be sarcastic and I keep forgetting I don’t do a very good job getting that into writing!

 

[walhondingnashua]

Don't rule out using fence posts also. Cheap, well treated and they made great vertical posts for my wood shed. Far cheaper than a treated 4x4 thats probably going to move some anyway.