Woodstove ready for install

[Bulldogmoose]

Hey guys,

So as some of you may know, I picked up a Jotul f500 about a month ago and rebuilt it. As it is all rebuilt and ready to be installed, I am just wondering if you guys can help me decide what to do. I had a buddy come by last night to check things out and he was amazed by the how great the stove looks. Putting some money and hard work into it, I am eager to get the beast up and running. Unfortunately, when he came over, he noticed that I wanted to put it as a corner install which was fine. The problem is, he thinks it is going to be too close to the window. I tried explaining to him that Jotul requires that with double insulated wall pipe and a rear heat shield, you only have to be 9 inches away from combustibles on both sides. Obviously, I have not built a hearth yet but I am wondering what to do before I build the hearth. I took some pictures to show you where the stove is and how from away from the wall it is. Any advice would be good considering my wife is a nervous wreck now that the guy thinks we should remove the window frame it out and build a hearth around the whole area. Not wanting to do construction to my home, I think it will be okay where it is because it meets the Jotul manufacturing requirements. My other question is, does anyone think I should move the stove over a little it having it forward facing along that back wall instead? The problem there is that the center of the room is the center of the roof, which I think you can offset the piping to avoid that. Take a look at the pictures below and let me know what you think. OF course I tried calling the fire department and she referred me to the building department who referred me to someone else who didn't answer my phone call. Any help or advice will do. Obviously the refrigerator will not be staying there.

Michael

 

[Bulldogmoose]

The building department just called me back and said that they go by the manufacturer specifications. So with having a rear heat shield and using double insulated wall pipe, I only need to be 9 inches away from combustibles on each side so if that is the case, I am good to go with having it in the corner.

 

[bwells794]

I'm more concerned about your fridge. Is that legitimately where it stays? If it gets warm enough, it could cause it to run excessively. Best case scenario, utility bills go up. Worst case scenario, you're buying a new fridge or replacing the motor. Meeting the clearance ensures the fridge won't combust, but it doesn't gaurantee it won't force the appliance to kill itself.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

I'm more concerned about your fridge. Is that legitimately where it stays? If it gets warm enough, it could cause it to run excessively. Best case scenario, utility bills go up. Worst case scenario, you're buying a new fridge or replacing the motor. Meeting the clearance ensures the fridge won't combust, but it doesn't gaurantee it won't force the appliance to kill itself.

bwells, the refrigerator is just there temporarily for we have yet to put in back in the kitchen. So don't worry about that. other then that what do you think

 

[bwells794]

bwells, the refrigerator is just there temporarily for we have yet to put in back in the kitchen. So don't worry about that. other then that what do you think

We'll I'm not of the authority to offer sound advice, but so long as you meet the mfg clearance requirements, use correct stove pipe and the installation is to code, I don't see why you'ld have any problems. For what it's worth, I think it looks better angled in the corner.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

I agree,

I actually just got off the phone with Jotul and they said that as long as you are meeting the specifications of the stove clearances you are fine. He did say however, that keep in mind because Jotul tests these clearances based on a certain temperature so there are chances that the combustibles can reach temps higher then normal, but as long as you are within the manufacturing specifications it is code

 

[bwells794]

I agree,

I actually just got off the phone with Jotul and they said that as long as you are meeting the specifications of the stove clearances you are fine. He did say however, that keep in mind because Jotul tests these clearances based on a certain temperature so there are chances that the combustibles can reach temps higher then normal, but as long as you are within the manufacturing specifications it is code

Yeah, just don't stray too far past 600F very often and I wouldn't worry about it. I haven't run my F3 past 550F and that's been more than good enough to do the job I bought it for.

 

[bwells794]

I assume the blue tape is the area you're going to cover with a noncombustible surface?

 

[Bulldogmoose]

correct, that is roughly where I would like the hearth pad to go. I would like to build one myself rather then paying 450 for one.

 

[bwells794]

yeah I just looked up corner ones and it wasn't pretty lol. Mine is on a fireplace hearth so I just bought an extension pad which wasn't too bad.

 

[kennyp2339]

The stove looks great, I am assuming that in the last pic your standing in a door way to another room? How are you planning to get the heat to transfer over? Is there a better spot in the house to set the stove? Your "mud room" seems to be pretty isolated.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

The stove looks great, I am assuming that in the last pic your standing in a door way to another room? How are you planning to get the heat to transfer over? Is there a better spot in the house to set the stove? Your "mud room" seems to be pretty isolated.

Hey ken... I'm in the kitchen taking a picture... I plan on using little corner fans to help circulate the air.. Plus I have a stove top radiant fan

 

[begreen]

I wanted to replace the F400 with the F500 in our house's corner install and have a window on the left side. The idea was scrapped for a couple reasons. One, cast iron Jotuls are quite radiant. In spite of having exceeded clearances for the F400 the walls got quite hot (160F+) when the stove was being pushed for winter heating. The larger F500 would have no slack in minimum clearances. Second, the left-side door needs 16" clearance. For this reason Jotul says it must be locked if corner installed. I didn't want to use the stove as a front loader.

 

[kennyp2339]

Roger that - some members here have found it easier to push the colder denser air towards the stove with a single box fan on its lowest speed to get more warm air into other living spaces. Good luck on your install

 

[firefighterjake]

Folks who are used to the old 36 inch rule or have older stoves often freak out when they see how close these new stoves can get to walls with the use of shielding. In a way, I'm kinda glad . . . I would rather someone be a little concerned about the distance to combustibles than someone be completely unaware that the stove does need to be a certain distance from the wall. A good friend of mine was freaking out with how close my Oslo was -- despite the fact that I had actually exceeded the clearance requirement by a few inches.

As long as you meet the requirements for clearance you are OK. As mentioned, I exceeded my distances for a little peace of mind. That said, as BeGreen mentioned, these stoves radiate a lot of heat and at times my wife was concerned with how hot the drywall was getting. Last year to help reduce her concerns we removed several feet of drywall from around the stove and replaced it with Durock cement board. On top of that I put down some tile. Honestly, it's not a lot more R value when it comes to protection . . . building a proper shield with a gap and vents at the top and bottom would have provided even more protection . . . but it looks good and adds just a little extra measure of safety.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Folks who are used to the old 36 inch rule or have older stoves often freak out when they see how close these new stoves can get to walls with the use of shielding. In a way, I'm kinda glad . . . I would rather someone be a little concerned about the distance to combustibles than someone be completely unaware that the stove does need to be a certain distance from the wall. A good friend of mine was freaking out with how close my Oslo was -- despite the fact that I had actually exceeded the clearance requirement by a few inches.

As long as you meet the requirements for clearance you are OK. As mentioned, I exceeded my distances for a little peace of mind. That said, as BeGreen mentioned, these stoves radiate a lot of heat and at times my wife was concerned with how hot the drywall was getting. Last year to help reduce her concerns we removed several feet of drywall from around the stove and replaced it with Durock cement board. On top of that I put down some tile. Honestly, it's not a lot more R value when it comes to protection . . . building a proper shield with a gap and vents at the top and bottom would have provided even more protection . . . but it looks good and adds just a little extra measure of safety.

Damn that looks really nice. I could do something like that on the bare wall, but as you can see, I can't do that to the side where the window is. My next question would be how to vent it. I can either go straight up or have it go out the wall like yours is. The problem with going straight up is that it has to go two feet past the highest roof line because it is within ten feet of the nearest combustible which means my chimney pipe is going to be freestanding approximately 18 feet and supported by roof brackets. While I am not so much concerned about that, my concern will then be how the heck will I be able to clean it. It will be very tough to get access to the top of the chimney pipe, my only other option I think would be to take apart the stove pipe each time I wanted to clean it. The other option is out the wall. The problem here is that that wall separates that room and the garage. So the piping would be going into the garage and up through the roof. So the piping would be exposed in the garage, which I don't see why that would be an issue because like an through the wall installation outside, the chimney pipe is exposed along the side of the house. I think that once it went though the wall, I could throw an offset elbow which will bring the pipe once it is out of the roof to the ten foot mark allowing me to only have to have a couple sections of pipe rather then 18 feet. My only concern here is that I don't know what the code for having the pipe in the garage would be. I like this idea because I would have easy access to being able to clean the chimney pipe. Let me know what you think

Michael

 

[kennyp2339]

Nice setup Jake, that stove makes your house Nor'easter proof

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Folks who are used to the old 36 inch rule or have older stoves often freak out when they see how close these new stoves can get to walls with the use of shielding. In a way, I'm kinda glad . . . I would rather someone be a little concerned about the distance to combustibles than someone be completely unaware that the stove does need to be a certain distance from the wall. A good friend of mine was freaking out with how close my Oslo was -- despite the fact that I had actually exceeded the clearance requirement by a few inches.

As long as you meet the requirements for clearance you are OK. As mentioned, I exceeded my distances for a little peace of mind. That said, as BeGreen mentioned, these stoves radiate a lot of heat and at times my wife was concerned with how hot the drywall was getting. Last year to help reduce her concerns we removed several feet of drywall from around the stove and replaced it with Durock cement board. On top of that I put down some tile. Honestly, it's not a lot more R value when it comes to protection . . . building a proper shield with a gap and vents at the top and bottom would have provided even more protection . . . but it looks good and adds just a little extra measure of safety.

also do you know your hearth dimensions. I am looking to build one

 

[firefighterjake]

I cannot remember the dimensions of the hearth . . . not without measuring it. I do know I took the specs from the manual and then bumped them up just a few inches.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Any one know of any places online to get piping for the installation cheap?

 

[begreen]

Chimney pipe is not cheap. If you have a Menards in your area they sell Supervent at a good price. Online, http://www.woodstovepro.com/ usually has decent pricing.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Any one know of any places online to get piping for the installation cheap?

Hey be green I know it's not cheap.. Just trying to get an idea of where the best place to get it would be

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Chimney pipe is not cheap. If you have a Menards in your area they sell Supervent at a good price. Online, http://www.woodstovepro.com/ usually has decent pricing.

hey there, i noticed that you offset your stove pipe right off the stove. I am going to have to do an offset if I want to go through the ceiling. My question is, can i go right off the stove or should I try and go up some before I do it. I only have approximately 50 inches or so from the top of the flue to the ceiling. My other suggestion which a friend said to do was where you are going through the ceiling box out the area in the attic space and cut the part of the stud out as well as do the same for the rroof trus and box that out.. and just go straight up all the way rather then not use any elbows?
What do you think

 

[begreen]

We have 20 ft of straight up flue so I wasn't too concerned about a small loss of draft. Also, an offset radiates more heat as the flue gases hit the upper diagonal surface. I wanted that to be low rather than up by the ceiling. And last, my wife likes it low better.

Some folks have boxed off the ceiling joists to avoid an offset. This is a cleaner look but must be done correctly. I'm not a carpenter so I won't advise on the proper method.