Work from recent inspection

[indee]

Hi Guys,

Nice to meet you all! First time poster here who is learning about all things wood stoves, I'm looking for some general comments to help speed my education.

I semi-recently bought a house and had the wood stove and chimney inspected. They requested $$$ repairs, and I'm assessing which to pursue. Obviously I need a save wood burning setup, but I also recognize the financial interest of the companies suggesting "everything and anything" to drum up revenue.

The company that did the inspection is mentioned on https://www.csia.org/, and they have a lot of google reviews that seem well received.

Main suggestions:

• Chimney rewaterproofing, some brick replacement, mortar regrinding, and a stainless steel cap
• Flue replacement with insulated stainless steel
• Stated wood stove had evidence of overfilling and should be replaced

Photo showing condition of chimney and cap:

He suggested the flue be replaced per these images:

Interior of VC resolute acclaim:

 

[blades]

flue- looks like it has a liner now. if not then all the interior flue pipes have to be broken out prior to new insulated liner install. unless you really want to save that exterior chimney portion just knock it down to inside roof and then run standard insulated double wall pipe out- still have to reline, lot cheaper. Still likely 2-5 grand. Stove looks pretty rough, assessing from a couple pics is tuff . if it more than 10 years old just replace- better in long run. I have rebuilt 3 chimmneys over the years , 2 just for conventional heat( under a grand apiece), 1 to convert solid fuel use- mandated that it still had to look the same ( That one was $ 5000. ) First 2 I did myself, last one contracted out, that was the converted one.

 

[bholler]

Hi Guys,

Nice to meet you all! First time poster here who is learning about all things wood stoves, I'm looking for some general comments to help speed my education.

I semi-recently bought a house and had the wood stove and chimney inspected. They requested $$$ repairs, and I'm assessing which to pursue. Obviously I need a save wood burning setup, but I also recognize the financial interest of the companies suggesting "everything and anything" to drum up revenue.

The company that did the inspection is mentioned on https://www.csia.org/, and they have a lot of google reviews that seem well received.

Main suggestions:

• Chimney rewaterproofing, some brick replacement, mortar regrinding, and a stainless steel cap
• Flue replacement with insulated stainless steel
• Stated wood stove had evidence of overfilling and should be replaced

Photo showing condition of chimney and cap:
View attachment 328440

He suggested the flue be replaced per these images:
View attachment 328438
View attachment 328439

Interior of VC resolute acclaim:
View attachment 328441
View attachment 328442
View attachment 328443

Other than waterproofing it all sounds right to me

 

[Tom Cat]

Since almost everything needs to be replaced think about whether the location makes sense. You may want to consider a stove in the center of the house. I have an insert on one side of the house with an external chimney and the other side of the house can get pretty cold.

You probably need the brick work done in any case

Tom

 

[indee]

flue- looks like it has a liner now. if not then all the interior flue pipes have to be broken out prior to new insulated liner install...

I don't think there is a liner, he mentioned terracotta? tiles. How do I tell for myself?

...unless you really want to save that exterior chimney portion just knock it down to inside roof and then run standard insulated double wall pipe out- still have to reline, lot cheaper. ...

I hadn't thought about that, I'll consider it. The chimney is about 8-10' from a second story (you can see in the background). Is the height necessary due to proximity near the second story.

Stove looks pretty rough, assessing from a couple pics is tuff . if it more than 10 years old just replace- better in long run....

Yeah, this is the hardest one in my mind because a new stove may require moving the thimble or interior brickwork. How should I know whether this stove is serviceable? His wording was pretty strong for extensive repairs, and his recommendation was replacement.

 

[indee]

Other than waterproofing it all sounds right to me

I guess what I mean by that is repointing, replace some bricks, and new cap. Sorry, was probably using wrong descriptions.

 

[indee]

Since almost everything needs to be replaced think about whether the location makes sense. You may want to consider a stove in the center of the house. I have an insert on one side of the house with an external chimney and the other side of the house can get pretty cold.

You probably need the brick work done in any case

Tom

Well I hadn't even thought of abandoning the old location. I imaging that's a lot more $$? Abandoning the old location and having a brand new location put in?

I will note that the current location isn't that ideal, it's in corner of a mudroom attached to a 2 story, so to get heat into the main house we run a box fan...

 

[begreen]

We completely relocated our stove from a mudroom entry to a more ideal and central living room location. No regrets.

 

[indee]

We completely relocated our stove from a mudroom entry to a more ideal and central living room location. No regrets.

Yeah, I'm beginning to research through whether it would be comparable cost to do a central location + class A...

 

[stoveliker]

What is your intended usage mode?
24/7 main heat source?

If so I'd definitely put it where it gets you the most benefit. You'll be having less work on wood (more heat per split coming where you want it so less splits needed).
That also affects pricing; maybe the upfront cost is a bit higher but you'll be using less of your time (or less $$$ if buying wood) to heat your place over the long term.

 

[xman23]

The masonry chimney brickwork needs some, or a lot of rebuilding. The terracotta liner looks bad. If it's not smooth and crumbling that's unusable without a stainless steel liner.
As to the stove, If there are no cracks that let in air in it might work. But there are internal parts that maybe an issue.

If it's fixable and safe without a liner and using the existing stove, you could save a lot. But if your rebuilding all of what's there and replacing the stove, I would consider demo out the chimney and do a new free standing stove and new SS chimney in the same place.

 

[indee]

Hi Guys, sorry for the radio silence. Due to the cost of the quote, I'm actually planning on a quote for a whole home mini-split system installed (house doesn't have AC, either). I'll post back when I make my decision. That obviously would not alleviate any of the issues posted here, but it would get me through the next heating season and give me sometime to think.

I also called my town & insurance, and it doesn't seem like there is anything preventing me from doing my own install with a building permit. There is an interior central spot in a corner of a family room, and chase way in the second floor enters a bedroom tucked nicely in a corner...something to think about.

 

[ruSSrt]

Hi Guys, sorry for the radio silence. Due to the cost of the quote, I'm actually planning on a quote for a whole home mini-split system installed (house doesn't have AC, either). I'll post back when I make my decision. That obviously would not alleviate any of the issues posted here, but it would get me through the next heating season and give me sometime to think.

I also called my town & insurance, and it doesn't seem like there is anything preventing me from doing my own install with a building permit. There is an interior central spot in a corner of a family room, and chase way in the second floor enters a bedroom tucked nicely in a corner...something to think about.

If for the same price (or little more), you can get AC and "economical" heat for the whole house than rebuilding the whole thing. Then choice is clear. AC it is. Down the line you can plan for wood stove. Installation of a stove is really not a rocket science. If you are handy with tools, feel comfortable on a ladder and have an extra set of muscles to help you, you can totally do it in couple of days yourself.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like a good plan.

Installation of a stove is really not a rocket science. If you are handy with tools, feel comfortable on a ladder and have an extra set of muscles to help you, you can totally do it in couple of days yourself.

It may not be rocket science, but it does have safety and operational requirements, so add the ability to measure properly, plan, and follow directions and code.

 

[ruSSrt]

Sounds like a good plan.

It may not be rocket science, but it does have safety and operational requirements, so add the ability to measure properly, plan, and follow directions and code.

You are 100% right. That should go without saying. You are literally playing with fire!

 

[indee]

Hi Guys,

Follow up. I'm designing out an extension to my brick hearth to accomodate an absolute steel from Woodstock. The house is ~1800 sq. feet but the stove as mentioned is in a mudroom adjacent to the main 2 story collonial, so I'm going to have to setup fans to get heat out. My idea is to knock down the chimney beneath the roofline and put up a prefabricated metal chimney. Thought I'd post the docs here before I apply for a building permit.

The clearances are listed on pgs 7-10 of link.

Some key thoughts:

• The hearth material will be brick mortared in place, see dimensions in the cad-like drawings
• Underneath the floor is 2x8 flooring 12'' on center
• Plan to use Woodstock's heat and pipe shield to get reduced clearances
• The chimney will pass through an attic, enclosed in plywood & exiting the roof obeying the 3-2-10 rule.
• Total height of the chimney, it may only be ~12' in length. I'm not sure if that will be enough for good draft. I can extend that if it's a concern.

I'd be happy to hear any concerns of the specifics of the plan from people more knowledgeable than me before I apply for a permit. I'll put on some thick skin and hear them! What else should I be thinking about?

 

[EbS-P]

So to be clear. You will not be utilizing any of the old chimney for venting?

Going up from the stove with new double wall pipe to a ceiling support box then class A chimney through attic and out the roof. Why are you enclosing it in the attic?

Do you need permits for demo? Do you need permits for a stove install? I didn’t check any clearances you listed.

12’ is short but at least it’s straight up and you have a plan.

 

[indee]

So to be clear. You will not be utilizing any of the old chimney for venting?

Going up from the stove with new double wall pipe to a ceiling support box then class A chimney through attic and out the roof. Why are you enclosing it in the attic?

Do you need permits for demo? Do you need permits for a stove install? I didn’t check any clearances you listed.

12’ is short but at least it’s straight up and you have a plan.

Plan is to not use the old chimney, yes. Yes to the new double wall pipe, ceiling support & class A. Attic has ~R70 of insulation, approximately 1.5 to 2.0 feet total so I was assuming the attic insulation won't be high enough.

I didn't check about the demo permit, but I'll at-least need a building permit. I called my insurance company and they didn't seem to indicate anything special needed from their end, either. I assume if a all required building permits were pulled and passed, that coverage won't be a concern.

 

[stoveliker]

Class A doesn't need to be insulated from the outside, so "1-2 ft not high enough" in the attic puzzles me

What is important is to keep the attic insulation from touching the class A because it's not rated as a non-combustible (and class A needs 1 or 2" clearance to non-combustibles).

 

[EbS-P]

Plan is to not use the old chimney, yes. Yes to the new double wall pipe, ceiling support & class A. Attic has ~R70 of insulation, approximately 1.5 to 2.0 feet total so I was assuming the attic insulation won't be high enough.

I didn't check about the demo permit, but I'll at-least need a building permit. I called my insurance company and they didn't seem to indicate anything special needed from their end, either. I assume if an all required building permits were pulled and passed, that coverage won't be a concern.

Just make a box or use wire screen to keep insulation away from class A in attic no need to completely enclose IMO.

 

[indee]

Class A doesn't need to be insulated from the outside, so "1-2 ft not high enough" in the attic puzzles me

What is important is to keep the attic insulation from touching the class A because it's not rated as a non-combustible (and class A needs 1 or 2" clearance to non-combustibles).

Yeah, what I mean is that I need protection from insulation to ~1.5 to 2.0' above the ceiling support, so I was presuming that was too high for a normal attic insulation shield. I may also need to use an offset in an attic with only ~4' of vertical space between floor joists and ceiling rafters, so I'm not sure I have enough space for attic insulation shield plus offset.

Either way, agreed the plan is to keep insulation off the chimney with required clearance either by enclosure (hadn't thought about wire screen -- that's an interesting possibility) or by attic insulation sheild.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, if it was my system, I would not chase it in. I would like to have the option to see the pipe if I go into the attic. You know, checking for leaks etc...

Also, some (all?) class A pipes have vertical seams. A small fraction of those exhibit a leaking vertical seams where water enters the insulation in the pipe, permeates down and leaks out at the ceiling support box.

I would silicone the vertical seams before installing the pipe, or when you're on the roof installing it, to avoid potential issues (even if the probability is low). Always best to avoid having to get on the roof...

Make sure your silicone doesn't interfere with the threads used to screw pipe sections together.

 

[indee]

^Silicon would need to be non-combustible, right? Forgive the ignorance, but does one have to look for a high-temperature variety?

 

[stoveliker]

It is non-combustible and normal silicone is fine here. No need for high temp..pipe insulation is sufficient.

 

[begreen]

I would silicone the vertical seams before installing the pipe, or when you're on the roof installing it, to avoid potential issues (even if the probability is low).

Most modern chimney pipe now has welded seams instead of the older Selkirk with the folded seam. I don't think any is sold like that now but maybe I have missed one. Typically now, the only silicone sealing needed is at the storm collar.