worx 18" electric chainsaw oiler

[iron]

my oiler has stopped lubing my chain. i took off the chain tensioner cover and cleaned everything up, but i don't see a spot that would be obvious for the oil to come out of. i don't see a way to open the cell containing the oil, so i'm not sure how to get things flowing again. any tips would be appreciated.

 

[zrock]

Look on your bar usually they have a little oil port that matches the case.... I just had to clean my stihl. Drained the tank and cleaned it well with brake clean and air. Pulled the intank filter and cleaned it was a pain. Sprayed brake clean through oil port from tank side... worked like new

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[iron]

thanks for the input. i haven't tried your steps yet. today, though, i took it apart and had all the pieces disassembled. there is the chain oil tank, a 2" piece of clear poly tubing that leads to a mechanism that has a spring loaded head on it (presumably it depresses to open up when the throttle is engaged). then, another poly tube leading to a black rubber mechanism that lets the oil flow out to the bar (sorry, no pics).

i cleaned everything (rags, skinny nails, blowing it out with my mouth) and everything indicated it would flow fine. loaded it back up with lube and i'm not sure if it clogged again or what, but it's not working yet.

saw this video (which is an update from an earlier one he produced) and am tempted to try it.

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do you know if instead of brake cleaner i could use something like acetone or white gas? my chain oil tank is polypropylene. will i burn through it?

lastly, on my old chain, i was definitely smoking it. not sure how bad it's burned. do you know if i can sharpen it and continue to use?

 

[DodgyNomad]

There are several things about that video that I do not like and don't recommend. First and foremost, is it seems like a great way to screw up the oil tank/case seal on many saws, in addition to applying that kind of pressure and volume can blow open the oil lines/fittings that lead to the oil pump.

I would not do that.

 

[zrock]

Not sure if i would use acetone as that stuff is pretty aggressive.. Gas would probably be ok.. When i cleaned mine i had to do it twice as the first time i did not pull the filter and their was still some dust in the back of the tank.. Reason i like brake clean is the straw you can stick right in the pickup tube and spray through making sure everything is out.. When i reassembled i cranked the oiler up to max and manually oiled the chain for start up.. Took a bit for it to start working again assuming air bubble. After a few runs i have dialed the oiler back to 3/4 tank to tank of fuel..

 

[DodgyNomad]

thanks for the input. i haven't tried your steps yet. today, though, i took it apart and had all the pieces disassembled. there is the chain oil tank, a 2" piece of clear poly tubing that leads to a mechanism that has a spring loaded head on it (presumably it depresses to open up when the throttle is engaged). then, another poly tube leading to a black rubber mechanism that lets the oil flow out to the bar (sorry, no pics).

i cleaned everything (rags, skinny nails, blowing it out with my mouth) and everything indicated it would flow fine. loaded it back up with lube and i'm not sure if it clogged again or what, but it's not working yet.

saw this video (which is an update from an earlier one he produced) and am tempted to try it.

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do you know if instead of brake cleaner i could use something like acetone or white gas? my chain oil tank is polypropylene. will i burn through it?

lastly, on my old chain, i was definitely smoking it. not sure how bad it's burned. do you know if i can sharpen it and continue to use?

not familiar enough with the worx stuff to tell you if it's going to hurt anything by using solvents. It might. On your chain, just sharpen it and see. If it doesn't hold an edge and dulls really fast, buy a new one.

I would use the compressed air pressurizing the oil tank last. I've replaced a few oil pumps, lines, fittings, o rings for saw oilers over the years, and I can tell you, even on pro saws, they're not very heavy, and consist of little rubber hoses and are just press fit, slide on, some with barbs, some just tolerance fit. A bunch of air pressure could blow everything apart, not just clear a clogged line. Saws I've worked on had a small screen filter installed in the oil tank. Check that for being clogged, but if it's still in place, pretty hard for debris to clog the line.