Yo-yo Heat Output - Hearthstone Mansfield

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Burn Time

New Member
Nov 30, 2015
38
Wisconsin
I'm not ripping my two-year old Hearthstone Mansfield, just looking for ideas how to manage those high-heat periods after reloading the stove.

Stove: Hearthstone Mansfield, rated up to 2,500 sf and up to 80,000 BTU.
Heat area: 1,700 sf partially exposed basement, 15,000+ cf (9' ceilings), about 2/3 is finished and superinsulated, about 1/3 is utility with 1" blueboard insulation on outside of masonry walls.
Fuel: Seasoned white ash.
Flue: 35 ft masonry (Isokern) with stack damper.
Heat transfer: 1. Force air system cold air return in ceiling near stove to circulate heat throughout house. 2. Two round ducts with in-line fans that draw air from the basement ceiling and discharge to a sun room on the first floor. 3. Open stairwell from basement to first floor.

The stove keeps the basement in a 70-72 degree range most of the time, so the stove size is OK from that standpoint. I get 10 hour burn times, meaning that I refire from live coals every 10 hours using a handful of kindling splits under the 3"x3" ash splits. I pack the firebox up to the secondary combustion tubes with wood.

The problem is that, after refiring, the stove throws out so much heat for a couple of hours I have to open a window on one end of the basement. This is with outside temperatures in the 5-10 degree range and with warm air being pulled out of the basement by the forced air system and the transfer ducts mentioned above.

After refiring, I allow the stove to run up to 400-450 before shutting down the air intake and stack dampers. After that, the stove temperature will continue to rise to 500-550, then begin to gradually drop. The stove would not get as hot and would not pump out as much heat if I left the dampers open, but the burn time would be much shorter.

I've kind of resigned myself to opening the window. That's good for airing out the house. There may be a way I can fiddle with the two dampers, but that means I have to hang around the stove to make adjustments. Suggestions are welcome.
 
Shut the primary air down sooner. On my non cats I'd often reload and leave the air on low. Dry splits on hot coals don't need much air when paired with a 35' chimney.
 
Hmmm....just thinking out loud... are you sure you want to burn a fresh load at any less than 500-550? The reason I say that is, that is the temps where many stoves have good and active secondary temps. Maybe the Mansfield holds a little higher internal temp and it still has good secondary burns? I dunno, but I think I would be checking my output (smoke) if I started to fiddle with lower temps on a fresh reload. Just something to think about....
 
My Mansfield was very consistent for years until one day...it started acting weird. Problem was, I never used the ash pan thus never moved the grate. But at some point it got jogged to the side and air was spilling in from beneath thus creating a firestorm.
 
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Something I've learned on my (much smaller and much different type of stove) over the years is with nice dry wood, I can start shutting down the primary air at 300 degrees and get it shut down completely before reaching 500 degrees, and still getting good secondary combustion. My heat output is thus more levelized over the full burn compared to letting it get too hot to early and then shutting down.
 
3x3 splits?!! Way too small. Bigger splits will slow down the bloom.
That is pretty much the size I split everything to and I have no problems getting long burns for my stove. I split that small so it dries fast and I can pack more wood into the stove that way to with much less air space.
 
3x3 splits?!! Way too small. Bigger splits will slow down the bloom.

I'm too lazy to split everything that small! 3x3 is what I use for fillers. :)

If I need stuff to season fast I try to stay in the 4x4 range. Ash you can split bigger and still season fast since its mc starts off so low.
 
Hmmm....just thinking out loud... are you sure you want to burn a fresh load at any less than 500-550? The reason I say that is, that is the temps where many stoves have good and active secondary temps. Maybe the Mansfield holds a little higher internal temp and it still has good secondary burns? I dunno, but I think I would be checking my output (smoke) if I started to fiddle with lower temps on a fresh reload. Just something to think about....
Yes, it's what needs done if you are trying slow a non-cat way down to useable levels. Smoke ploom and creosote levels need monitored of course. With a little practice you know the stove, and how to prevent this.
 
Shut the primary air down sooner. On my non cats I'd often reload and leave the air on low. Dry splits on hot coals don't need much air when paired with a 35' chimney.
This is what works for us, even with a 20ft chimney. A flue thermometer is what I go by now for timing air shutdown, not the stove top temp.
 
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