You guys are so helpful!!!

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ninerbud

ninerbud

New Member
Jun 8, 2016
10
Oregon
I just purchased a Enviro EF3 about 4 months ago on Craigslist, couldn't pass it up when it was listed for $295. Drove 2 1/2 hours to pick it up, and even negotiated down to $250.

I've spent those last 4 months cleaning, sanding and re-painting my new treasure. When I finally got it all shiny (well, fresh flat black main body, and metallic gray door to cover the very tarnished gold trim door) I had to start looking for information on venting. I did a lot of googling, spent lots of time checking and re checking and measuring, all of my walls and ceiling 3-4 times a night. Everytime I spent anytime googling or searching through the Internet, I always seemed to end up here.

I can't believe how much help this website was for me. After building a hearth, another idea I got from this forum, I got my piping (check jet.com if you already know what parts you need, I saved over $100 compared to my local hardware store) I gave my local government about $130, for a piece of paper that said I could install something in my own house, and got to work. I put my new hearth in place and after some grunting got my new precious into her new home. After a few hours of lining up my pipe and making sure everything was sealed and ready I took my helper out for a beer. I was so excited, finally got my new pellet stove in!

I made and appointment for the inspector and was ready to burn, or so I thought. The inspector came out and started looking around.... 5 of the most awkward minutes I've ever been involved with. He finally spoke and said, "well you know this is all wrong right?" I all but fell over, how did I spend 4 months on this and still mess something up? I asked him what he meant, and he told me it was because I didn't have the minimum requirement for clearance to a combustible wall. I know I measured everything Two and three times before I finished my install. He told me the minimum clearance was 6". After I pulled up some information from the vent pipe company to show him that the correct clearance was 1." I was shocked to see that he had pulled up something very similar and it was on hearth.com. Even the inspector used this site, awesome!

Now that I have my certificate in hand I started my new stove, only to find out that I have an issue.

I spent days pulling different components out to make sure things were clean. I decided to look on here again to see if anyone had the same issue I had (fire seems to die after random period of time, turns out it only died after the dial-a-fire gets adjusted). Once again you guys saved me from having to turn to a more expensive option, either replacing part after part to eliminate the possible issues, or calling a stove repair professional like my wife wanted me to. I ended up on the sticky on this forum in the service manual for my enviro. Used the service manual to troubleshoot until I verified the problem and I will be going to purchase the replacement part tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix my issue, but if it doesn't, I know this forum will be here to help me again.

So I apologize for the very long wind version of this but....

THANK YOU
I joined the forum strictly to write this post, but maybe something I learned along the way will help someone else, and I will try to keep an eye out to see if I can help, and try to repay all of the help I got.
 
Ahh, Shucks (scuffs sand around with my toe a bit). Weren't no big thing.

Although I didn't provide any insight (not my stove brand), I know a bunch of people on here did with their various postings. Thank you so much for stopping in and giving kudos - this really is a very helpful place - regardless of any dysfunction we have at times (don't all families?) ;)

Don't be a stranger and keep us posted on your progress. In fact - pictures are always welcome!
 
ninerbud said:
He told me the minimum clearance was 6". After I pulled up some information from the vent pipe company to show him that the correct clearance was 1." I was shocked to see that he had pulled up something very similar and it was on hearth.com. Even the inspector used this site, awesome!

Now that I have my certificate in hand I started my new stove, only to find out that I have an issue.
Click to expand...

So did he accept the 1" or did you have to change something up ?
 
alternativeheat said:
So did he accept the 1" or did you have to change something up ?
Click to expand...
Yes he did accept the 1" clearance, mine is actually about 2". I used the double wall vent pipe so I accept it to be okay, I might end up doing some sort of tile on the wall if I notice it getting warm.
 
Here are some before and after pictures. I haven't taken pictures of the pipe install yet.


[Hearth.com] You guys are so helpful!!!
[Hearth.com] You guys are so helpful!!!
[Hearth.com] You guys are so helpful!!!
[Hearth.com] You guys are so helpful!!!


bogieb said:
Ahh, Shucks (scuffs sand around with my toe a bit). Weren't no big thing.

Although I didn't provide any insight (not my stove brand), I know a bunch of people on here did with their various postings. Thank you so much for stopping in and giving kudos - this really is a very helpful place - regardless of any dysfunction we have at times (don't all families?) ;)

Don't be a stranger and keep us posted on your progress. In fact - pictures are always welcome!
Click to expand...
 
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Where in Oregon are you? I'm north Hillsboro.
Stove and all your hard work look great.
 
ninerbud said:
Thank you, I'm really happy with the way it came out. I live in Eugene. What brand of pellets do u burn? About how much do u use for the entire season?
Click to expand...

I use the Coastal Farm and Ranch premiums. I buy the coastal gift cards when they are on sale, $600 card for $500 etc. and use them to buy the pellets.

This last season I used 2 pallets plus about 12 bags. Some of those extra bags were other brands I tried when figuring out which one burned best in my stoves. My house is small at about 900sq/ft, and old with no wall insulation.
 
Glad to hear the rehab and install went well. Wondering if the inspector got confused between wood stove and pellet stove on the clearances...

Hope the replacement part does the trick. What are you replacing?

Welcome to the forum and the saying is "Pics or it didn't happen"
 
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Lake Girl said:
Glad to hear the rehab and install went well. Wondering if the inspector got confused between wood stove and pellet stove on the clearances...

Hope the replacement part does the trick. What are you replacing?

Welcome to the forum and the saying is "Pics or it didn't happen"
Click to expand...

Well unfortunately it looks like the part I replaced didn't do the trick. Frankly I'm a little stumped. I replaced the dial-a-fire because when I bench tested it, it had a dead spot on the dial, about 10-12 o'clock. But after replacing it, I still seem to have the same problem. I start my fire and get a nice flame going (no auto start ) and then about 10-15 minutes into the burn the auger light stops blinking and I get no more pellet feed. As soon as the stove cools down, auger works just fine again. I tried to bypass the vacuum switch to diagnose the problem and I just had the same result. I'm starting to wonder if I have a bad auger motor or something. When I first installed the stove it ran for about 2 hours before this happened and that time it shut off after I went and adjusted the dial-a-fire. That's why I diagnosed that directly. Any thoughts?
 
Hello
Try replacing the low limit thermo disk on the exhaust blower housing.
That would be the next item, it does more than just control the room blower on that stove, it checks POF - Proof of Fire.

Also, if the auger has a 3/4" diameter auger shaft Which a lot of older EF-2 and EF-3 stoves have, then a Nylatron auger bushing upgrade will make the auger motor last a lot longer!
I put this bushing in my friends Enviro and it works awesome!
Also check the top auger bushing to see if that is in good shape. The lubrication dries out after a few years!

P.S. - Check out this EF-2 and EF-3 sales brochure PDF I uploaded for you. :)

See pics below:
Click on pics to enlarge:

Pic 1 - low limit
Pic 2 - Nylatron auger bushing upgrade
 

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Don, you may be right. There are four sensors in all that could be jumpered temporarily to rule out which one is acting up. Always unplug when working in the cabinet and pay attention to potential shorts when jumpering! You may want to set up some wires with appropriate connectors to make it easier. Do not run the stove with safety features jumpered ... only for diagnostic purposes. There is also the timer module itself that is connected to the dial-a-fire ... troubleshooting is in the manual.

Is the exhaust blower functioning well?
 
yes, the exhaust blower seems to be running well. The only problem that I have is when the stove is cold it doesn't act up, so I have to get it up to temp and then start diagnoses. I will take a look at that auger bushing and see, is there any trick to getting the auger motor off of the shaft? When I first got the stove, I did a though cleaning on the hopper and all I could do is get the auger motor loose, I couldn't get the auger itself off of the motor. Where do you get parts from? I'm really interested in that upgraded bushing, but I don't think I've seen that on most of the sites I've found parts from.
 
I was so excited that I thought I had it diagnosed. I even built a new dial-a-fire from a potentiometer I bought at an electronics store. I thought maybe I failed at my build, but when I did the resistance test, I was right within the range for the dial-a-fire (73k ohm- 800-900k ohm). I'll get the stove going real good tonight and then do a quick jumper on the low fire sensor.
 
ninerbud said:
yes, the exhaust blower seems to be running well. The only problem that I have is when the stove is cold it doesn't act up, so I have to get it up to temp and then start diagnoses. I will take a look at that auger bushing and see, is there any trick to getting the auger motor off of the shaft? When I first got the stove, I did a though cleaning on the hopper and all I could do is get the auger motor loose, I couldn't get the auger itself off of the motor. Where do you get parts from? I'm really interested in that upgraded bushing, but I don't think I've seen that on most of the sites I've found parts from.
Click to expand...

Yes, sometimes the auger motor shaft really gets stuck inside the auger shaft!! It took me 45 mins to get the auger motor off sometimes after I loosen the set screw!! I do have a very good method of getting the motor out. I spray the shaft of the auger and motor with PB Blaster from the auto parts store . Take out the set screw and spray PB Blaster in there also. I put a small piece of wood on top of the motor and use a small black iron pry bar in there and whack the end witha hammer. Just keep whacking and spraying. as the motor starts coming off, I insert a second piece of wood on top of the first piece of wood and spray and whack some more. This method always works for me on those older tough Enviros.
Hope this helps. :)

See more pics and info I have here
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-auger-from-corrosion-any-suggestions.113950/
 

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Don knows better as there are rules regarding advertising otherwise we would become just an advertising forum;) The nylatron bushing & plate is also available from the last two links as well as Don.
 
Hi Ninerbud- Did u get the warhorse fixed? The EF3 is a pretty tough stove, I'm wondering if you have a tired auger motor that is overheating or a timer block not functioning?? Guess the auger could also be binding, this does seem heat related obviously. Let us know what fixes it, the EF3 is one of my favorites... Take care
 
stovelark said:
Hi Ninerbud- Did u get the warhorse fixed? The EF3 is a pretty tough stove, I'm wondering if you have a tired auger motor that is overheating or a timer block not functioning?? Guess the auger could also be binding, this does seem heat related obviously. Let us know what fixes it, the EF3 is one of my favorites... Take care
Click to expand...

I haven't figured it out quite yet. I'm thinking of getting a new timer and ruling that out before a new auger motor
 
stovelark said:
Hi Ninerbud- Did u get the warhorse fixed? The EF3 is a pretty tough stove, I'm wondering if you have a tired auger motor that is overheating or a timer block not functioning?? Guess the auger could also be binding, this does seem heat related obviously. Let us know what fixes it, the EF3 is one of my favorites... Take care
Click to expand...
I got another fire going this weekend to see what it was and the auger motor didn't seem to overheat. It was cold to the touch after the light stopped flashing, and I unplugged it of course. So I'm going to see if I can find an auger timer and go from there. I've looked on a couple of sites and they seem astronomically priced so far, so I'm going to try my local electronic store and see what I can find.
 
I hate to jump in this late in the game but I do not see in any of the posts if the 140::F
exhaust sensor was tested or replaced . Also when auger stops after 15 min. have
you tried to press the start button or rocker in your case did it or did it not start
feeding pellets again ? If it did star again then I suspect the exhaust sensor
 
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