Like my Condars . . . the stove top Condar I checked when I got my IR thermo from Harbor Freight . . . read then and still reads within 25-50 degrees of each other . . . which is close enough for my needs . . . I'm not baking a souffle.
I might try one of those, THe IR gun is nice but im not going to use it every day.Like my Condars . . . the stove top Condar I checked when I got my IR thermo from Harbor Freight . . . read then and still reads within 25-50 degrees of each other . . . which is close enough for my needs . . . I'm not baking a souffle.
That pic is a link to the product - they make lots of them still.When I was young I remember us having a stovetop thermometer with a dial. I don't think they make them any more
I have no problems trying out the Condar except the price... that one looks like it would be about $21 or so shipped. The one I linked you could get 3 for nearly the same price.Like Jake said I have the Condar medallion stove top therm and it reads within 20-30 degrees of my IR gun. Not too bad!
DD... is that one like the one I linked that you just set it on something (like the grill grate) or is it attached some other way?
Its magnetic. Just like most other stove top thermo's.
I'd like to share the IR gun that I got a few weeks ago. This one is adjustable for emissivity so it's useful for more things, especially shiny objects with low emissivity. Most are set at .95. It also uses AAA batteries which I like because I can use inexpensive rechargeable's. About $15 shipped (from China). Works fine and the dog loves the laser!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110928922971?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Just pondering alternatives... anyone have any luck with grill thermometers?
I'm not sure how good of 'contact' it would make on the stove surface compared to being in the open heat of a grill? Its about half the price of the Condars.
Or one of the electronic meters w/ probe. How does one make a reliable thermal connection with the probe, would a magnet suffice? That one only reads up to 572 but for my purposes on my old stove that is plenty, but thats just a quick example, I havent searched too hard yet.
While leaving it up to luck may work for some, I would never recommend not having a thermometer. Some stoves are much more finicky than others, especially with certain types or dryness of wood. My stove likes to go nuclear if you let it get too hot before turning it down with something like well seasoned locust. So monitoring the temps on startup is the key. I also like to reload at certain temps, if it drops too low it becomes more of a pain and more smoke to get the new load going, especially with marginal wood. So some may get away with no thermometer, but they are useful tools for others. Store guy isnt necessarily running his stoves like we do anyhow.
While leaving it up to luck may work for some, I would never recommend not having a thermometer. Some stoves are much more finicky than others, especially with certain types or dryness of wood. My stove likes to go nuclear if you let it get too hot before turning it down with something like well seasoned locust. So monitoring the temps on startup is the key. I also like to reload at certain temps, if it drops too low it becomes more of a pain and more smoke to get the new load going, especially with marginal wood. So some may get away with no thermometer, but they are useful tools for others. Store guy isnt necessarily running his stoves like we do anyhow.
X100- My 30 runs a fine line between overfire, just right, and not good.... Thermo's are a Must have.
Judging a fire by the window cleanliness? No need to burn "Hot" a couple times a day, if you have good burning techniques, seasoned wood, and proper operating system (correct install, proper chimney height and requirements, and a thermo).
All this talk made me pick up a $35 IR at Harbor Freight when I was there today. My Rutland reads about 50° too high. It showed a little under 400, while the IR said 340.
Which one is right? Dunno, cause they're both pretty cheap, but I'd lean more towards the IR.
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