This little crotch broke the shear bolts that hold the push block to the rail and the the push block rolled up and snapped the piston rod where it mounts to the clevis.
Jeez, Just can't catch a break with that machine eh Mike?
That's the route I think I'd go. Don't think you could get it made/repaired for under $200.Or I can buy it from a guy in Rochester for $170 plus shipping. Its a direct part from Prince hydraulics
We paid $1,000.00 and dumped about $900 to fix the wedge, a seal kit and hydraulic fluid.
Wow, I just bought a new rod for my cylinder. I'm now glad I chose not to get the one with the reduced shaft diameter, where it attaches to the wedge. I decided on the full 2" diameter all the way to the end. F'n thing cost $400 bucks.
View attachment 95989
Looks like it's been cracked/stressed for awhile.
I think we might've found the source of the problem.....
I also bought my machine used, from a rental company. The rod was bent when I bought it. I got 6 mos out of it then had to put in seals again. I decided to rebuild the cylinder correctly. Mine is a strange size and its welded on. I now understand why the rental place sold it. 5" cylinder with 2" rod. I've put $900 just in parts into mine. I comes down to abuse, from people who are using these things (and don't own them). A little issue becomes a very big one eventually if it doesn't get addressed when your dealing with these forces.Where did you buy the rod from? And why? I assume the other one broke.
I questioned that also, why it is reduced at the threads.
What machine do you have?
Where I can get a clevis that receives a 2" thread?
That's the route I think I'd go. Don't think you could get it made/repaired for under $200.
I can't imagine it. Lets see it when its done.You are correct. I called a few guys first before I called my friends cousin. Only one would make it and he wants $500.
I can buy the whole cylinder for that much.
My friends cousin said for it'd be better to buy it for $170 but if there was a problem he'd help us out.
Then he said that he will cut the broken end smooth and bore a threaded hole into the rod and put a threaded stud on it for $50.
I'm going that route for now.
Oh and MasterMechanic, Thanks for digging up that old picture.
It sure makes it look like a piece of junk.
We cleaned that puppy up and at least it looks better, even if it don't work right now
Yes, the stud option sounds like the way I would go as well.
Part of the problem with that push plate is the design. With the bolts going through the sides - you are dealing with shear strength of the bolts. IF the bolts were from top down, you would be dealing with tensile strength (not shear). Tensile is usually far stronger. Whatever you do, make sure the replacement bolts are of a high grade and not standard bolts. I would consider grade 9 as to avoid this problem in the future.
This the repair I made to the push plate when I first bought it. There is no way to do a vertical bolt. I will try to find a #9 bolt
Heck - you already had grade 8 in there. Grade 9 might not be the cure-all. Yeah - the design is even seen on some production models, but I prefer the other method. Your pusher is also quite tall. That is a leverage disadvantage. Ever consider cutting it down a bit?
This little crotch broke the shear bolts that hold the push block to the rail and the the push block rolled up and snapped the piston rod where it mounts to the clevis.
At the very least a crotch should be split from below. Up towards the top of the tree. Not down towards the base.A little crotch has given all of us trouble now and then Mike.
That's one that you should have left alone.
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