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I can't believe this broke my splitter

Post in 'The Gear' started by infinitymike, Mar 5, 2013.

  1. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    This little crotch broke the shear bolts that hold the push block to the rail and the the push block rolled up and snapped the piston rod where it mounts to the clevis.

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  2. gmule

    gmule Feeling the Heat

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    Wow, that is some quality breakage.
  3. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Jeez, Just can't catch a break with that machine eh Mike?
  4. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    Its allready paid for itself.
    I split 8 cord and my friend (half owner) has split 10 cord.
    Long Island prices for 18 cord is between $150-$200= $2,700-$3,600
    We paid $1,000.00 and dumped about $900 to fix the wedge, a seal kit and hydraulic fluid.
    Thats $900 each. On the low end I'm still ahead by $300

    And like you have said its only metal and can be fixed.
    I have a friend who has a cousin who owns a machine shop and makes theses rods all the time.
    Or I can buy it from a guy in Rochester for $170 plus shipping. Its a direct part from Prince hydraulics
  5. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    That's the route I think I'd go. Don't think you could get it made/repaired for under $200.
  6. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    Wow, I just bought a new rod for my cylinder. I'm now glad I chose not to get the one with the reduced shaft diameter, where it attaches to the wedge. I decided on the full 2" diameter all the way to the end. F'n thing cost $400 bucks.
  7. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Busted.jpg

    Looks like it's been cracked/stressed for awhile.

    I think we might've found the source of the problem.....

    [​IMG]

    Sure hope this thing stops costing you money soon Mike. You're getting dangerously close to new Iron & Oak territory but then again, you have a log lift. ;)
    Pallet Pete likes this.
  8. nate379

    nate379 Guest

    I'd probably just bust out some 6011 and make them stuck back together. Don't have much to loose right?
  9. salecker

    salecker Feeling the Heat

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    I agree,if it was mine the pieces would already be welded together,no real need to pull it apart either.Even though that's to late.get it welded and save the $$$
  10. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    Where did you buy the rod from? And why? I assume the other one broke.
    I questioned that also, why it is reduced at the threads.
    What machine do you have?
    Where I can get a clevis that receives a 2" thread?
  11. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    I saw that as well and I guess there was a hairline crack in the threads that was allowing water in and rusting it?
    I gotta look at that a little closer. That may not be the reason, but that may just be the actual thread.
  12. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    Thinking about it a little more there is a relatively if not totally new clevis on the end.
    Which leads me to think that the old one broke and was replaced.
    But if it broke, there most of been some major stress on it.
    which in turn may have put some stress on the rod and weakened it or put some hairline cracks.
  13. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    Oh and MasterMechanic, Thanks for digging up that old picture.
    It sure makes it look like a piece of junk.
    We cleaned that puppy up and at least it looks better, even if it don't work right now:p
  14. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    I also bought my machine used, from a rental company. The rod was bent when I bought it. I got 6 mos out of it then had to put in seals again. I decided to rebuild the cylinder correctly. Mine is a strange size and its welded on. I now understand why the rental place sold it. 5" cylinder with 2" rod. I've put $900 just in parts into mine. I comes down to abuse, from people who are using these things (and don't own them). A little issue becomes a very big one eventually if it doesn't get addressed when your dealing with these forces.
    If I were you, I would try to insert the whole width of the rod into the connection where it attaches to the wedge. Obviously easier said than done. This will eliminate a weak point. A new rod is a waste of money for you.

    Attached Files:

  15. lukem

    lukem Minister of Fire

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    Judging by the discoloration at the break point, that thing has been gimping along for a while. At least it broke after the 18 cord and not before.
  16. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    You are correct. I called a few guys first before I called my friends cousin. Only one would make it and he wants $500.
    I can buy the whole cylinder for that much.

    My friends cousin said for it'd be better to buy it for $170 but if there was a problem he'd help us out.
    Then he said that he will cut the broken end smooth and bore a threaded hole into the rod and put a threaded stud on it for $50.

    I'm going that route for now.
    MasterMech likes this.
  17. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    I can't imagine it. Lets see it when its done.
  18. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    The idea was to show that since the push plate guides were poorly repaired/constructed prior to you buying it, there obviously had been some serious side loads applied to the connection where the push plate attaches to the rod.

    I like the threaded stud solution, great price on that work too.
  19. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes, the stud option sounds like the way I would go as well.

    Part of the problem with that push plate is the design. With the bolts going through the sides - you are dealing with shear strength of the bolts. IF the bolts were from top down, you would be dealing with tensile strength (not shear). Tensile is usually far stronger. Whatever you do, make sure the replacement bolts are of a high grade and not standard bolts. I would consider grade 9 as to avoid this problem in the future.
    nate379 likes this.
  20. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    This the repair I made to the push plate when I first bought it. There is no way to do a vertical bolt. I will try to find a #9 bolt

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  21. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    The reason they kept breaking the angle guides was they were only able to get a weld on the outside.
    I took a flat plate and welded it on the outside and inside of the base plate.
    Then made new guide clips and wear pads and bolted it.
  22. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Heck - you already had grade 8 in there. Grade 9 might not be the cure-all. Yeah - the design is even seen on some production models, but I prefer the other method. Your pusher is also quite tall. That is a leverage disadvantage. Ever consider cutting it down a bit?
  23. infinitymike

    infinitymike Minister of Fire

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    The clevis is in the center of the push block.
    I don't think that there is a lot of leverage.
  24. 711mhw

    711mhw Feeling the Heat

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    A little crotch has given all of us trouble now and then Mike.:eek:
    That's one that you should have left alone.
    BoilerBob and MasterMech like this.
  25. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    At the very least a crotch should be split from below. Up towards the top of the tree. Not down towards the base.
    ewdudley likes this.

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