In 20 years with my stove I have never had a auger jam. Heres what I would do. Take the motor off by loosening the collar that couples the motor to the auger. Turn the auger with pliers or vise grips until you see pellets falling into the burn pot. Now you know there is no auger jam. re install motor insuring the set screw is on the flat of the auger shaft and is tight. light stove and see what happens. If the auger stops after a couple minutes I would suspect the air sensor to be bad. Hope this helps
My first step was to clean out the hopper completely and remove the auger cover and vacuume out the pellets in the auger. When it was clean, I would try to wiggle it and it would move slightly. I put it back together, added pellets and started the stove. The auger appeared to be jammed up again.
I removed the pellets from the hopper again, removed the auger cover again, and again vacuumed the pellets out of the auger. In both instances, I also used a small dental tool to dislodge pellets and again put it together.
After the 3rd time, I bought a different kind of pellets as this problem surfaced after we switched from Lignetics to the Home Depot brand. So I have freeded the auger motor at least 3 times with the same result.
This led me to believe the motor might be defective because it would not turn the auger yet I knew the auger could move albiet with the motor attached.
I was getting tired of doing the same thing with the same results, so I pulled the insert out enough to remove the rear panel, unscrewed the 5mm allen head on the collar, and removed the motor. I then tried to turn the auger
motor with my bare hands but couldn't turn it in the CW direction. I just could not do it so I turned it CCW and then CW and it turned but was very rough. I also noticed a pile of sediment directly under the auger motor which anothe poster said was an indication that the lower bushing was bad. So I removed the auger shaft and that's when I saw a goughed bushing.
As I have said many times, I also tested the auger motor on my kitchen counter and it seemed quiet, turned 360 degrees without any grinding, and so I then held the motor and with my fingers, tried to stop the motor. I could not, but I am not sure if my ability to slow the motor down was as great a load as the auger was with pellets and a gouged bushing. So I ordered a new bushing but not a motor. After reassembling everything and trying it again,with the same results, I started expanding my search. I checked the three swithes and the air sensor. The air sensor is a PC board sticking in the cold air intake, so if it is good or bad, I cannot troubleshoot. I wiped it clean and reinstalled. I keep going back to testing the static load and the dynamic load of the motor. I know it turns the auger because I placed an inspection mirror down there and with my flashlight, could see the collar start to rotate, but then stops rotating. So the only thing different is the load of the pellets in the hopper.
So my test is to test the motor in a dynamic load with pellets using straight 110 V power to see if it will feed the pellets. If it does, it dispels my motor and auger defective theory 100%. Then this would lead me to the control circuitry, including the air sensor which I can't test, and the computer main circuit board.