So far I am begining to think it will have a big effect on my length of useable heat also.Rich L said:
Manual Damper Performance Improvement
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tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
i've been using a damper on cat stoves, new epa stoves, old stoves, new stoves and it all boils down to control. i like having the extra capability to control the air by using the damper too....not to mention just in case you need to shut it down....it helps. jmho
cass
cass
oldspark said:
It has for me.The damper allows my stove to get hotter thus throwing off more heat.Before too much heat was racing up the chimney even with the stove's air inlet turned all the way down.Let us know what happens if you install the damper.
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
[/quote] Well I have a lot of south windows and when it gets cold with a south wind I need the extra heat, other wise for the most part it is fine. My old stove had the ability to put out a ton of heat if I needed it. An example would be last night, no wind about 10 outside house was 70 with only 4 pieces of wood so I let the fire go out, wind came up and switched to south, not good woke up to 56 degrees, so I needed heat and needed it now. That is really the only time the summit will not heat the house very well, I could hit 700 or even 750 for a short period of time I believe it would help a lot. A lot of Summit owners are hitting 700 to 800 stove top temps with out a problem and yes I believe that is 1400 inside the box at least but you have to have a high temp for the secondaries to work.[/quote]
10f out and you let the fire go out?
10f out and you let the fire go out?
I have one and the stove stays hotter longer but the effect on the top end was not noticable but will continue to try new things. I feel like I am back in school.Rich L said:
OldSpark,
Did you try making sure you load the stove up to the secondaries?
I use 4 inch splits (not exactly a square but close)which I think are a medium split and the size most people use with these newer stoves. My bigger splits are like a 5 inch but most are a 4 inch. If you load the splits with a little space between them it helps.
But I expect you already know to burn in cycles as in start with a full load and let it burn down to coals and start the cycle over with just coals.
The wood will only put out the high heat while the splits are out gassing. When thats over its going to be a lower output.
I load the back of the stove up east west and leave space of coals up front too put small 1" or less kindling to fire up the heat in the box fast.
If you have wood stacked high in front of the box towards the door window (which in my case I would have to do after kindling burned down) . As we have talked about in other posts it helps to build heat as it almost seems like it reduces the only area left in the stove and if you have secondaries burning it really reduces that space up there that the secondaries burns then escapes up the flue. Its almost like the wood stacked high in the front may block the secondary burn from escaping as well and builds up the extra heat.
But for sure if your stove has alot of head room you need to fill it up high with wood and get up there close like with in an inch of the secondaries. Then if you get the tops of the wood burning and the top of the stove gets to 700 then you can maintain that heat which will maintain the burn with such a small space up there to heat.
Did you try making sure you load the stove up to the secondaries?
I use 4 inch splits (not exactly a square but close)which I think are a medium split and the size most people use with these newer stoves. My bigger splits are like a 5 inch but most are a 4 inch. If you load the splits with a little space between them it helps.
But I expect you already know to burn in cycles as in start with a full load and let it burn down to coals and start the cycle over with just coals.
The wood will only put out the high heat while the splits are out gassing. When thats over its going to be a lower output.
I load the back of the stove up east west and leave space of coals up front too put small 1" or less kindling to fire up the heat in the box fast.
If you have wood stacked high in front of the box towards the door window (which in my case I would have to do after kindling burned down) . As we have talked about in other posts it helps to build heat as it almost seems like it reduces the only area left in the stove and if you have secondaries burning it really reduces that space up there that the secondaries burns then escapes up the flue. Its almost like the wood stacked high in the front may block the secondary burn from escaping as well and builds up the extra heat.
But for sure if your stove has alot of head room you need to fill it up high with wood and get up there close like with in an inch of the secondaries. Then if you get the tops of the wood burning and the top of the stove gets to 700 then you can maintain that heat which will maintain the burn with such a small space up there to heat.
iceman
Minister of Fire
Oldspark do you have a fan? ... My stove sees 700+ sometimes depending on what I do... But its an insert so its on the front of the stove.... If people have fans and seeing 700+ they are prolly overfiring...as with a fan it drops temp by at least 100 degrees...
When I need that blast of heat as you describe, I don't close it down... I leave the slide just a tad bit from the middle of H-L and adjust as I need ... This make the whole stove real hot so it almost radiates . When I close it down seems just the top is hiot ... Hope u understood, cause I am confusing myself LOL
When I need that blast of heat as you describe, I don't close it down... I leave the slide just a tad bit from the middle of H-L and adjust as I need ... This make the whole stove real hot so it almost radiates . When I close it down seems just the top is hiot ... Hope u understood, cause I am confusing myself LOL
Mainely Saws
Feeling the Heat
It seems like if there was an overdraft problem that the first thing that would be noticed is that even with the air inlet closed all the way , there would be excessively high temps & or bright angry flames just as if the air inlet was left open .
iceman I have a fan but all my temps I am reporting are with out the fan running, it saves on confusion.
MainlySaws-yea I agree, I am going in circles again, when the temps warm up my wood burning is easy.
MainlySaws-yea I agree, I am going in circles again, when the temps warm up my wood burning is easy.
oldspark said:
Oldspark, do you have double wall pipe or single wall and where are you taking the flue temp reading if you are using a probe before or after the damper? What are your flue temps on a re-load when everything is opened up and when you are cruising with everything shut (or where ever it is set)?
Single wall surface, after the damper but I can read it any where cause I have a IR testor, the flue temps vary, sometimes I hit 600 on startup, once it was 724, right now on startup the stove is 600 and the flue is 500.
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