I purchased 48 feet of flex rod and a heavy nylon 6" brush so that I can clean my own chimney. I paid a sweep $125 last October to clean it and when I installed a flue in the pipe roughly two weeks later I found a one inch layer of creosote all around the pipe. I am unwilling to go up on my roof, and even more unwilling to get to the top of the chimney. My plan is to brush the pipe up to the cap from the hearth all while having a large trash bag around the base of the pipe. Is this a proper way to clean the pipe? Am I asking for trouble? Thanks for any help I might get. Bill
Need advise on cleaning my chimney.
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That is the way yes but if you had a 1" layer of creosote last year you have bigger problems. Was that creosote hard or tarry or was it dry and flaky? If it was hard or tarry your brush will probably not clean it.
I almost commented on that. A inch layer of crap in two weeks aint good. Wonder if he's saying the sweep did a lousy job?
If not he better season his wood more.
BCC_Burner
Feeling the Heat
I don't really understand how you could hire and pay someone to sweep a chimney, and not realize they aren't doing the job properly. I had a sweep come out last week and I watched his every move like a hawk, made him talk through what he was doing the entire time and looked both up and down my chimney after he was done to ensure I was satisfied with the job. Chimney sweeps charge a lot, and I don't mind paying, but I am going to be damn sure they do the work perfectly, or re-do it until it is to my standards.
He could be saying that two weeks after he installed(or someone else installed) the pipe in the flue he found a inch layer of crap.
Need clarification..lol.
Need clarification..lol.
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I got 48' in an online auction for $10. The one inch of "light crusty black" foam like creosote was what the sweep left behind. I did not burn in between the cleaning and the flue installation. My point being why should I pay for a crappy job? I could not inspect the work because I will not go up on the roof and the chimney was connected to my stove through a 90 degree bend. The liner currently has quite a bit of black crusty dry creosote. If it were an artery, you would be having a heart attack soon. I am going to use a paper yard waste bag, duct tape a brush hole inside and out on the bag, then tape the bag to the flue pipe. My wife will hold the chimney and I will work the brushing. I hope to control the dust this way. I use well seasoned oak, cherry, and ash all burned through a catalyst model Woodstock Fireview. I sold the Fireview and am expecting delivery of the Progress Hybrid and want to clean the chimney. Any thoughts?
Yes that will work post a picture of you set up and the creosote in the pipe and we can give you some advice probably. From your description it sounds like it is not burning very good but without pics it is hard to say. Also foam like creosote is usually a sign of a fire so post pics so we can have a better idea of what is going on
Still need more info just in case.
Is this a clay flue ?
Is there a liner the whole length or no?
Sounds like you put a new pipe from the stove to the flue ..that's when you found the crud right?
Ditto on the pics.
Is this a clay flue ?
Is there a liner the whole length or no?
Sounds like you put a new pipe from the stove to the flue ..that's when you found the crud right?
Ditto on the pics.
Pipe is 6" single wall from back of stove straight up to ceiling 12', then roof penetration (I have no idea of method) then pipe through chimney cascade on roof another 12' or so. It is 30' of 6" pipe the whole way. I assume the roof penetration is double or triple wall with fireproof box around it.
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Ok the pics really help.
Your first post was hard for me to understand but some will tell you my comprehension is really lacking anyways..lol.
I hope those pipes inside the room are all screwed together?
Burning a cat stove like you have(very nice stove and hearth btw) with all that pipe it should be double wall to help with stack temps..less creosote. For sure if you run the stove at low burns a lot,you should have double wall.
Your first post was hard for me to understand but some will tell you my comprehension is really lacking anyways..lol.
I hope those pipes inside the room are all screwed together?
Burning a cat stove like you have(very nice stove and hearth btw) with all that pipe it should be double wall to help with stack temps..less creosote. For sure if you run the stove at low burns a lot,you should have double wall.
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Also the cap will be first to get plugged up so try to keep a eye on it when burn season comes around again.
Also that should be a tee at the bottom with a cap on the bottom of the tee not an elbow. Snap spme pics of the creosote hen you go to clean it so we can see it.
Yeah. Also I see you have a damper installed..use it much? I'm just curious.
Please don't be put off with our questions and comments..we live for this stuff lol ..really we just want you and your family to be warm and safe. Cheers!
Please don't be put off with our questions and comments..we live for this stuff lol ..really we just want you and your family to be warm and safe. Cheers!
I will post some pics of the inside as best I can get of it. The chimney is screwed together. I added the flue to the pipe to control my burn. Without the flue the stove was dangerous to use. I completely relied on the flue to control my stove. Double wall? Yuck! I just paid gonzo for a new stove and that pipe would cost more than the stove! Maybe next year. That Fireview heated my entire 2460 sq/ft house. I intend to have longer burns with the larger PH. I purchased my house last summer and have only one year of burning experience. The build up in my pipe could be from me, or from 25 years of the prior owners. The Fireview was original to the house in 1988. DOUBLE WALL! Man you just ruined my day. 
I will post some pics of the inside as best I can get of it. The chimney is screwed together. I added the flue to the pipe to control my burn. Without the flue the stove was dangerous to use. I completely relied on the flue to control my stove. Double wall? Yuck! I just paid gonzo for a new stove and that pipe would cost more than the stove! Maybe next year. That Fireview heated my entire 2460 sq/ft house. I intend to have longer burns with the larger PH. I purchased my house last summer and have only one year of burning experience. The build up in my pipe could be from me, or from 25 years of the prior owners. The Fireview was original to the house in 1988. DOUBLE WALL! Man you just ruined my day.
Well you don't have to have double wall if your pipes stay fairly clean with the single. It will be on you to inspect the pipes and clean as needed.
When you fire the PH don't wait for more then a few weeks without checking for the first time would be my suggestion.
What you're calling a "flue" is really a key damper. That threw me off in your original post.
I figured you must have a really strong draft with that setup! Cheers!
You have next seasons wood ready to go?
8.5 cords stacked and ready, with 4 more on the way. Burned about 11.5 last year. Woodstock thinks I will burn less wood and produce more heat with the PH. None the less I plan to have 12.5 cords ready by next week and can get a few cords from friends if I run low in March or April of next year.
i would try to use the damper as little as possible you should be able to control the stove with just the air controls going in if you are having that much trouble controlling it i would check for air leaks. Also 11.5 cords wow that is allot how long did you burn last year?
Sounds good!
But I'm pretty sure you're talking bout face cords and not cords.
I'm used to talking in face cords also but they frown on that here it seems..to confusing for some.
4'x8'x16" is a face cord to me..1/3 a cord. So 12 face cords =4 cord and that's the amount I burned this past season.
Usually 3 and a 1/3 cord..but to me it's easier to say 10 face cord..lol.
You might want to get a moisture meter and check your wood on a fresh split and try not to be much over 20% as a rule.
So you are just stacking up what you are burning the coming winter? The ash may have a chance of being close to be dry but the cherry and oak will never be seasoned in less than 5 months. No wonder you are accumulating so much creosote. Give all your wood at least two years to season and your chimney will look much better. Am I right to assume you leave the primary air at the stove pretty wide open to get a hot burn?
Where did he post what kind of wood he has?
But yeah ,you're right of course. That's why I threw the M.M. comment out there. I'm trying to be a little more subtle..lol.
post #8. And no real need to measure anymore; the oak and cherry will never be dry and I have my doubts about the ash, too.
Ah..I missed that in the post.
I concur about the wood not being ready by this coming season. That is the biggest pain to me in burning wood.
Every spring I have to stack wood out back then come fall I stack about 4 cord in the basement from wood that was put outback the spring before.
I'm going to buy a skid or two of eco-bricks and see how that goes. Seemed fine on a few test runs but I have not tried to burn them days on end yet.
I'm figuring about 30% more in cost but hey.
Well mopar go and get yourself a moisture meter and test your wood on a fresh split face. Allot of guys on here go over board on drying time i agree 5 months is not long enough but i disagree that you need 2+ years also. Test your wood you want to be between 15 an 20% 17% is perfect
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