Possible allnighter issue?

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mzadrick

mzadrick

Member
Nov 11, 2014
30
Connecticut
Good evening all,

I just want to take a minute to run this by all the experienced members on this great forum. Tonight I was down in the basement and I was looking at the rear of my mid moe. On the inner bottom part of where the hot water jacket insert is I noticed that I was getting a little red glow on the stove. At first I thought it was my eyes. But sure enough it was not my eyes at all. I was just wondering if this is normal for the design of the stove. I do not over load the stove and I am burning clean seasoned hard wood. Any one else out there come across this same issue? Attached are some pictures of my set up. Thanks again!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418780735.358812.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1418780744.139752.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1418780752.324025.jpg
 
I'd put a baffle in it to reduce the possibility of getting fatigue cracks at that spot.

That stove pipe is hotter than I run - 600* stove top with 300* pipe is my norm with any Fisher. Is there a damper in the pipe? You should be able to save some of that heat before going into the creosote range.

Hot Papa Spokane Wash. 3.jpg This shows the hottest area on a similar Fisher. No damage was done to this stove.

Extensive use with no baffle can cause these fatigue cracks. Very fixable with a stop drill hole and weld.

outlet cracks 2.jpg outlet cracks 1.jpg

I'd imagine you wouldn't see that with water circulating to help extract that kind of heat. Makes sense to heat water at the hottest area.
A baffle puts the hottest area to the stove top where it belongs;

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/
 
Coaly,

Thank you for the reply. I did read the post about adding a baffle and I definitely plan on doing that in the near future. I do have a pipe damper on the single wall pipe. I usually get the stove to around the 400 range but not 600. My stove pipe is always he hotter of the two, will proper operation of the stove pipe damper help increase my stove pipe temp while keeping the pipe at normal mid range temps?
 
Pipe hotter than the stove doesn't sound right. Do you have a super strong draft causing too much heat to exit the stove? (Partially closing damper will slow the flow if draft is too strong) I found your chimney pics in another thread; Saw where you went from cool condensating to maybe too hot? Placing the stove thermometer on the step top should be much hotter than the pipe above the damper. Hope the baffle is sooner than later. That's what I'd try.
 
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I just wanted to take a minute to say thank you to coaly and the rest of the members of this great forum. I started off this winter with the purchase of my wood stove to entertain the thought of saving money on my heating bill and experiencing burning wood. Due to reading all the great posts with others experiences, tips and tricks it has been a great experience! And as far as coaly's article about installing the baffel, it has made a world of difference as to how my stove operates! Thank you again coaly! Next time I clean out my stove I will take a picture of the baffle I made for my stove to pass on to others. Thanks guys!
 
Thanks m, I try to make a new heating experience good for anyone that hasn't heated with a manual heating system with wood or coal. It can turn into a nightmare without knowing the basics of what you're doing. 24/7 heating may not be for everyone, but everyone needs back up heat and light for the times with no power. In some cases it makes a lifestyle change leading to many more interests making you even more self sufficient.
 
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