Jotul c550 Rockland tips thread

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I would think that cleaning from the bottom up would be kind of messy as far as the soot coming down on you but if you have a steep roof I guess it would be the preferred method. If cleaning from bottom up you will have to remove the pin which is pretty easy after you remove the front surround faceplate..
 
Summertime said:
I would think that cleaning from the bottom up would be kind of messy as far as the soot coming down on you but if you have a steep roof I guess it would be the preferred method. If cleaning from bottom up you will have to remove the pin which is pretty easy after you remove the front surround faceplate..

I have been cleaning from the bottom up for over a year. I replaced the SS pin with SS nuts and bolts, you may also have to cut the pull down adapter out of the pipe (I did). If you put a drop cloth on in front of the stove there is little to no mess, the creosote just falls into the fire box. If it really concerns you, then you can stick a shop vac hose in the stove (assuming it is cold), it will take care of any dust that may be floating around.
 
BI Guy,

Thanks for the post. The main reason I didn't cleaned from the bottom up was because of the post, I didn't realize it was OK to cut it out. Question. What did you use to push the brush up? I don't think the 4 ft flexible rods I have are flexible enough.
 
The sweep today had the blanket out front and a shop vac with a oversized hose. They had a small reel of rod with a brush on the end. They recommended that i burn one of those creosote logs before i start burning. Too bad that BI doesn't live closer, i would hire him to do it in a second. It sounds like he has the process down.

I was ready to burn tonight, but it is supposed to be in the 60s through Friday. I am ok with that because I will be able to sneak probably my last round of golf for 2009 in tomorrow.
 
Bizango1 said:
BI Guy,

Thanks for the post. The main reason I didn't cleaned from the bottom up was because of the post, I didn't realize it was OK to cut it out. Question. What did you use to push the brush up? I don't think the 4 ft flexible rods I have are flexible enough.

I believe the only reason that they put the T handle in the pull down adapter is so you can pull it down, besides, I have never seen another piece of stove pipe with a bar across it. Anyway, it has been over a year of brushing and I have yet to see any movement (just be sure to replace the SS pin with SS hardware, so you can remove the bolts it you ever have to pull it apart). As far as the rods go, I am using 3/8" fiberglass rods (4" sections) and they bend just fine. Now the stove does sit on a heart that is a foot off the ground, so I am guessing it your stove was right to the floor it might be a tight bend. Good luck and I would like to hear from any of the stove pro's on their thoughts about removing the cross bar on the pull down adapter.
 
I remember reading here about someone having problems with the left blower but I can't make myself read through all the posts....

I had to replace my left blower last winter because it started acting up and making loud whistling noises...

Lately I am getting a whistling sound again and it seems to be coming from the left blower. It is not as loud as it was last year with the old blower.

Any of you notice a whistling sound when your blowers are on high? I am wondering if it is normal and if I am just being super sensitive but I do not recall it doing this before....

I did call my dealer and she called Jotul - they told her it is hard to diagnose when it isn't constant. Recommended I do the 'wait and see' thing. Figured I ask here since you all have the same inserts.

Thanks
 
Last year I had a small piece of debris get caught in my squirrel cage that made an annoying whine but it was a more constant noise..
 
I take a can of compressed air (the kind you use to clean your computer keyboard) and occassionally blow out the fans to dislodge any debris that gets into the squirrell cage fins. Seems to work well at keeping any build-up from forming on the fins and helps to keep them balanced. You can get a can at Walmart, Staples, etc... for a couple of bucks.
 
I replaced my left fan. It would not stay on. I have not had any problems after it was replaced. Never had a whistle. You can shift the fan a bit if you remove the grill. Maybe it is vibrating against something and just needs to be repositioned.

Good idea with the compressed air. What are you guys doing to clean the face of the stove?
 
woodsy said:
I take a can of compressed air (the kind you use to clean your computer keyboard) and occassionally blow out the fans to dislodge any debris that gets into the squirrell cage fins. Seems to work well at keeping any build-up from forming on the fins and helps to keep them balanced. You can get a can at Walmart, Staples, etc... for a couple of bucks.

When you blow the 'dust' off of the fins how do you then get it out of the squirrel cage? It has to blow off somewhere....

I got a Cougar ash vacuum and use that on the fins when I clean them to suck up what I dislodge. Yesterday I used a Q-tip to see how much I could get off. I went through about 10 q-tips! (It was fine, fine dust.) Surprised me because I had thoroughly cleaned the blowers at the end of last season with a mini compressor ( I got it at Ace - can be used on bicycles and cars. Cost less than $50.00 and is electric so it can be plugged in anywhere.) and have only been burning this season for a short time and vacuum regularly...

Anyway, the whistle was still there. I am going to wait and see if it works it's way out or gets worse. My dealer is really good and I am sure that if it is the left fan again she will get Jotul to send a replacement for free since it is less than a year old..

Thanks for the responses. I like hearing what others are up to and tricks you have.
 
perplexed said:
When you blow the 'dust' off of the fins how do you then get it out of the squirrel cage? It has to blow off somewhere....

The fine dust will get blown out through the top of the insert where the warm air blows out. I only do this when SWMBO is not home! Shhh - don't say anything......
 
Has any other 550 Rockland owners had a problem with the paint coming off of the damper adjustment and surrounding areas
of their insert. We have only had ours for two weeks and the damper lever is already turning silver. Wouldn't think this normal but
I am new to the insert world so I don't know. Question #2. It seems like it takes forever for the auto fan to kick on. Even when
restaring a fire when the stove is kind of hot you can put the fan on manual and it blows out good heat. If you switch to
auto the fans do not come on.
 
No problem with the paint (stove black) on mine but I do agree that the auto fan function takes forever to kick in. I switched to manual and just turn them on or off as needed. You could probably swap out the solenoid that starts the fans for something that operates the "on/off" function at a lower tempurature.
 
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The paint is going to wear off on that lever whether you like it or not, you're using it. I have the Matte black, which is not as durable as the enamel coatings. My guess is your moving that lever with stove gloves on, which has abrasives from dirt and wood on it. Its the nature of the beast. I dont mind it. I went with the Matte black becuase I like the older style look. The cast iron wear is just a plus. As for the auto fan, another way you can look at it is that the fire box may be able to throw heat, but it doesnt mean that it is optimum. I also am impatient and move to manual most of the time to start feeling some heat. However, a few times I did wait and found that the stove had a much more established fire. When you turn on the fan too early, you are taking heat away from the firebox, possibly too early. I suppose this will differ depending on what type of wood you are burning. If i start with some pine, and establish some hot coals I turn on the fan earlier. If i am working with some less than perfect hardwood (not all the way seasoned), i will wait longer.
 
My door handle knob and door handle lever are wearing so you can see woodgrain and silver through the finish (second season),I wonder if they still make this stuff called "Stove Polish"I had years ago and it was a high temp paint that you could apply easily with a brush. I always have my stove on the manual setting as I am quite impatient also..
 
I am pretty sure good stove places sell stove polish. I still have some . The also make stove blackening which came in a tube like tooth paste. In either case you put it on with a cloth and then rub to a bright luster.
 
Does it work. When do you think you would need to refinish? Mine is matte-black and I have been burning since 10/2008. It looks like the day I took it out of the box. I burn hard, 24/7.
 
JB, I have been burning mine since about the same time, 10/08 annd it still looks great. Refinish when you start to see signs of wear. I burn 24/7 also. Glass door blackens after each use but Rutland stove glass cleaner #84 seems to clean it.
 
labrador said:
Glass door blackens after each use but Rutland stove glass cleaner #84 seems to clean it.

A bit of cold ash from the firebox on a damp rag does a great job and doesn't cost a thing. ;-)
 
HopWallop said:
Finally found the time to download pics. This is the final install less the left fan, which should be replaced next week.

HopWallop,

I do not see the cord for the fans, did you run it inside of the opening?
 
So all of the newbie problems that I asked about I have somewhat solved thanks to help from all of you kind folks. The last issue I have with my Jotul Rockland is. It seems to take forever for the auto fan to come on. Just tonight I am on re-load#2 and the damper lever is hot enough that I cannot touch it without gloves with out discomfort. I switch from manual to auto fan and nothing. Last night it took 4 hours of burning but it did come on finally. I would like to use the auto mode when I retire for the evening so it kicks off when the insert cools at about 3-5 a.m. Any ideas? It seems to work better with less ash build up but then I would be shoveling ash every night and from responses from other owners that is not neccessary. On manual the insert is throwing serious heat. To followup with my other issue. The people I bought the insert from actually came out the day before thanksgiving and touched up the damper lever and surrouning areas that were turning silver with flat black stove paint. It is already wearing through again. I guess that is the nature of the beast.
 
That should not happen. My 550 still has original matte finish and it is a year and a half old; perhaps they did not use 1200 degree paint. Try buying stove polish from a hardware store. I have always run my stove on manual for the same reason as you, it took too long for the blower to kick on and I was wasting good heat. I have been running mine 24/7 so I can start it right up again in the morning. You will find it a super heat source. Good luck with it. and welcome to the forum.
 
I have heard about the stove polish several times on this post. My insert is flat black as well. Does stove polish look like flat
black paint when it drys? Polish to me implies shiny and that is not the look my insert has.
 
I apologize in advance if my question sounds stupid: I just started to use this insert about a month ago. Please forgive my ignorance.

I am having issues with the front grille of my Rockland 5500: it seems that it moves during the burning. I explain: I start my fire the door opens without any issue; the next morning though the door seems to be difficult to open because it gets stuck by the grille (could be on the right or left side). I then remove the grille and put it back and after some adjustment the door opens or close flawlessly...until the next time.

My questions are: has anyone had the same type of issue before? when you put back the front grille, how tight and low does it go? is it supposed to go all the way down? do you use some strength to put it back or just gently?

Please help me!