New member with a few questions.

You need a special approved pipe for using a pellet stove. I highly doubt the 6 inch pipe you are using for your wood stove is approved for pellet stove use.

Also, if money is a major concern, you may want to llok at used stoves. The top three stoves in my opinion would be Harman, Quad, and Enviro.

You need to do a lot more reading especially about garages, insurance, local code requirements, etc..

About that old 6" flue you need to have stove specific information (combustion blower flow rate considerations) before answering that question, in general folks would run a liner up the center of it if there was any length involved.

Now that having been said you might want to check out craigs list for a used stove, usually what happens is that folks get all giddy about using a pellet stove (after all you just dump the pellets in and hit the switch) that they don't want to see what they have to do to keep it running. As a result a lot of stoves get pushed to the sidelines because they "no longer" burn right and the owner is certain that they cleaned it properly, yada yada. This provides good deals for a knowledgeable person to pick up. You want to see it running if possible or a get a really deep discount on the thing if not possible. Most things can be fixed, parts do exist for even old stoves and/or there are some really handy folks out there.

LT32 said:

As far as the pipe goes, would it work if I ran the 3" pipe up to the ceiling and adapt it there? That would leave around 6-8' of 6" pipe through the ceiling and roof. And insurance and codes are not a problem.

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Pending the actual stoves requirements that would likely work, remember it is a double walled 3" coming from the stove and you will likely need to match the manufacturer of the existing pipe.

Things are not interchangeable in general.

I have an insert that replaced a wood stove. The 4" flex vent out of the back of the insert goes directly into the 6" rigid stainless that was used for the woodstove. Total vertical flue is around 24'. I was able to adjust the burn chamber vacuum to the manufacturers spec. Both fire chief and insurance company inspected and passed the setup. I also just had a chimney sweep come in and inspect everything before the heating season started. He adjusted the cap on top of my chimney (was allowing rain water to come down the flue) and that was it. He also gave the install and flue setup a passing grade.

I don't see why you should have any problems as long as you can get the magnehelic pressure set to the the manufacturers spec.

BradH70 said:

Snip ...
I don't see why you should have any problems as long as you can get the magnehelic pressure set to the the manufacturers spec.

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Which is why I said it would be stove specific.

The adjustment range can be very small for a number of stoves, in fact some stoves do not even have an adjustment capability built into them at all.

SmokeyTheBear said:

BradH70 said:

Snip ...
I don't see why you should have any problems as long as you can get the magnehelic pressure set to the the manufacturers spec.

Click to expand...

Which is why I said it would be stove specific.

The adjustment range can be very small for a number of stoves, in fact some stoves do not even have an adjustment capability built into them at all.

Click to expand...

Sorry Smokey, looks like we were typing at the same time. I didn't mean to step on your paws.

Also, I did not realize that some stoves don't allow a damper adjustment. I guess that is why proper venting is more critical with some stoves over others?

Why even go all the way up to the 6" stove flue? A lot of stoves can be direct vent or just buy the standard 3" Kit and go up 3' and out, or Out and up 3' with just 3" Pellet vent?

As for the stove a descent stove can be had for under $1,000. And the vent kit is about $200 (overstockstoves.com). Look at the Englander line of stoves. They sell refurb units at a fraction of the cost of new and come with full factory warranty. AMFMEnergy and Overstockstoves is a good place to look for them.

Lots of satisfied AMFM Energy stove customers here.

BradH70 said:

SmokeyTheBear said:

BradH70 said:

Snip ...
I don't see why you should have any problems as long as you can get the magnehelic pressure set to the the manufacturers spec.

Click to expand...

Which is why I said it would be stove specific.

The adjustment range can be very small for a number of stoves, in fact some stoves do not even have an adjustment capability built into them at all.

Click to expand...

Sorry Smokey, looks like we were typing at the same time. I didn't mean to step on your paws.

Also, I did not realize that some stoves don't allow a damper adjustment. I guess that is why proper venting is more critical with some stoves over others?

Click to expand...

You aren't stepping on my toes at all, just wanted the OP to understand the reason for my answer, and I have a stove with absolutely no damper on it and no means of fine adjustments via the control board at all except for fuel feed on heat range 1.

Funny thing about these stoves no two are alike, even if they are the same model.

If you can, why not just spend on piping it straight out side through the wall, with a short vertical rise to allow good draft? It might be cheaper than running it all the way up. It will also make it easier to clean out after you run a few tons, you won't have to use a extension ladder to get on the roof. Maybe just a step ladder instead.

Look at the Nu-Tec Upland stove. Made to replace a wood stove set up..http://www.nutec-castings.com/Upland_207_Pellet_Stove.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPLAND-Blac...208?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf46a3770