Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Hogwildz, Dec 28, 2006.
Photos of loose areas & no imprint on gasket. I marked because tough to see.
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left side top door framing on stove 1/8" off, right side slightly less. meaning entire top horizontal run of door frame on stove boewd in middle slightly. right side does ok on dollar test, left side no good.
HW, the bowed mating surface on the door frame part of the stove body is exactly what I had except mine bowed in, not out. When ya put a framing square flat against it there was a bow obvious dead center in the bottom and a smaller one at the top. Same deal right up to the folding the dollar bill three or four times before resistence.
dollar bill , even doubled up can be wiggles & slid sideways in the loose areas.
Weird thing is, although the other 2 sides and bottom appear fairly straight (not perfect). The bottom of door & left side are loose, and the top where the bow is except the very corner is pretty tight. The complete left side is loose, then 1/2 the bottom is loose on the latch side.
lower left corner
Deja-vu Bubba. I am having some major deja-vu here. I tried for a week to mickey mouse a solution to that and finally lugged it out of the fireplace and replaced it.
If yours is the same you can probably slide the bill in without even unlatching the door.
top left corner
Did your glass get more creosote deposits in the leaky areas? An indicator of leakage maybe?
I am going to try to adjust the door latch, worse comes to worse. I'll call dealer and let them come up with a replacement or solution.
This is the time I wish the manufaturer was close like you. And they dealt direct with the end user.
Yep and the big giveaway was when I spotted soot past the line where the gasket mated with the door. The leak at the bottom was fighting the airwash that was coming from the top airwash port and painting a stripe right up the middle of the glass above the leak.
I dont get any creosote and or deposits on the glass except the very bottom corners.
The good the bad and the ugly I'll post it if i find it so i took a stright edge to my summit and here are the pictures.
The sides are stight , the top is bowed out in the middle and the bottom is bowed in on the bottom, dont know if im more seated then you with the door gasket but one would think the door gasket would make up the difference.
Hogwildz , If the top of your frame is bowed out this is going to push the door out and will be tight at the top and loose on other parts of of the door/frame.
If it was me i would take an angle grinder with a flap disk and smooth the top edge out to even before i would pull that insert out and back to the dealer.
Just my .02
Ok, Roo, mine is exactly like yours! Out at top center, and in at bottom center. But the bottom is very minimal.
I just adjusted ( bent a lil LOL)the latch part on the stove itself.
The sides are not tight that I cant pull the bill out, but there IS resistance now.
The top corner is tight
The bottom is better, one spot about a bill width is some resistance buyt not like the rest. I looked closer at the gasket there and it sits in towards the glass more then the rest of the gasket around the door. Ids there a way to "fluff" it out a lil? I tried to manipulate it with my fingers, squeezed it a lil to push it outward. I am seeing imprint from the stoves door framing edsge on the gasket now, that one spot on bottm is very llight. I will see how this goes. Hopefully the latch doesn't bend itself back from the extra pressure. I have creosote more along the left side where door was real loose. The right side gets a very lil at the corners, but usually cleans up with a hot fire.
The left wouldn't clean even at 800+. I'll observe if this issue is fixed also.
Going to go get her cleaned out and fired back up, getting chilly here.
Might work Roo. You guys have a different mating surface than I do. My gasket mates flat against the flat front of the stove body so short of finding 1,200 degree Bondo I couldn't even it up like HW may be able to. Of course the minute he takes a grinder to that stove I bet that forever warranty goes up in smoke.
HW for an interim fix you can take a pair of pliers and squeeze the gasket to pooch it out more just at the spots where the leaks are. Of course ya have to redo it every time or two that the door is opened and re-closed.
Seems much tighter now, for now LOL.
Was going to cleaner her out, but was just enough for my 1" ash on the bottom. Man my old Fuego would need cleaning ever couple days, and that was about 4" of ash or so.
Ok so my thinking is, door letting air in, fueling fire even with air turned down all the way. Maybe the solution to my problem.
See and I wasn't just being too paranoid, although I always am a lil with new things.
Thanks guys. I'll let yas know how it works out. At least the bill is snug now.
Welp. I have her fired back up. I did notice the secondary burn baffle is bowed down a lil now, like bellied, and the rear baffle agle support is also slightly bowed down in the middle. Whe you guys get a chance, lemme know what yours looks like. If need be, I'll groan for a new baffle, due to the door not sealing properly.
On a good note, the door is much tighter than it was. I'll see how it goes from here.
Sorry I just revisited this thread and didn't chime in earlier about adjusting your door. PE stoves are shipped separately from the doors, so the first time your door saw your stove was when you hung it on there. Because of variances in manufacture and assembly of the stove, door assembly and latch, a little latch adjustment is almost always needed during setup. The idea behind PE's door design is that the "catch" on the stove pulls the door inward when you turn the handle, causing the knife edge around the perimeter of the door opening to dig into the door gasket. To tighten the fit, we tap on the very top of the catch lightly with a hammer, test-closing between taps until we feel strong resistance when we turn the handle. If you tap too hard and the handle won't engage the catch, use the handle of a crescent wrench to pry the catch back out a bit.
Thanks CS, I kinda figured that out LOL. I got her snug and tested with a dollar until the dollar had some resistance while being puilled on.
I went a lil at a time, and now it seems pretty snug, I can see the edge imprinting the gasket where it did not before. The new ones have a lil roller on the door side of the latch. I can see this thing or the latch itself wearing out. But not as big a deal to replace as say a firebox or something major.
I used a block of wood so not to mar the paint and tapped as you said. Worked well. Luckily don't need to pull her back. I prolly adjusted it to almost 1/4" tighter. Maybe a tad less.
Hog, my secondary burn baffle had a very slight bow in it - just as you described - that I noticed when looking the stove over before it was even installed. My dealer said it's typical to the stove and nothing to be concerned about. This guy has a reputation for being a perfectionist and I trust him on that one.
However as for the bow in your front plate, mine is as flat as a pancake both top & bottom. Never ANY creosote on the glass, not even the corners. Sometimes I'll get a mark when a long log edges up too close to the glass but then it's more like ash flecks than black creogunk.
If Tom reads this I'd be curious if the amount of bow in the front plate on Hog's stove is within typical tolerances for this unit, that is should it work fine with appropriate door adjustment. At any rate good detective work Hog you're on the way to being the resident summit expert here.
My mind boggles at the concept of an acceptable tolerance for the flatness of the door sealing surface on a $2,500 wood stove. And especially on one where the door is going to be mated to the stove after manufacture.
Well, errrrrrrrrrrrr, that was kinda my first thought too Bart but I figured maybe I was missin' something. Now I'm even more curious to hear what Tom has to say.
I'm just a Rookie Summit burner at this point, Roo & Willhound are the pros. Roo's photos of his bowed top & bottom are like me looking axactly at my stove.
He doesn't seem to have the sme issues. I adjusted her pretty well. I am slowly getting it filled with some coals so I can then put a few big berthas in.
So far seems better. I am thinking the air bypassing through door was pushing the air wash away, and the cooler outside air causing the creosote formation.
I couldnt get some off, (no stove glass cleaner) got alot of with windex though. when I get her hot, I hope the air wash now will be running down that area correcxtly and cleaning the gunk off. It really seems like its easier to manipulate & hold temps now. Much smoother & steadier. But I haven't had her real hot yet. I think the door adjustment is doing the trick.
It would have been nice if they put a note in with door or in manual that the door might need adhusting and how to do it. I figured it out, but not everyone might.
Now I'll have to see if it causes premature door gasket failure. I am much more at ease anyways now. When my gut tells me something wrong, I like to think I am just being paranoid, but my gut is usually right.
Welp, I didn't stock the beast full, but have a few large splits in. Doors stayng clean, temp hasnt gone over 550, actually came down to 500 on its own. Holding there steady. Not even close to soaring like it was. I noticed the secondary seemed to be there visually alot longer. I think the door adjustment solved the problem.
I'll fill her full tomorrow and check it out. Seems like it should be now. I am relieved so far.
:cheese: WoooooHooooooo , A few small tweaks and back on track.
By the looks of the door gasket one would think any "off-ness" would be taken up in the difference of the thick gasket , I guess yours was just a hair past close. Sense that is the case you will need to pay extra attention to door gasket maintenance in the years to come ...... unless you are able to make the difference up in the door frame level.
I'm going to level my frame door opening tomorrow just because i can and it will bother me to no end if i dont.
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