AIR TUBE

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

detmurds

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jun 2, 2006
89
Seabeck, WA
aol.com
After using my fireplace for 100% of the heating last year, my Avolon "Pendelton" air tube warped. No I did not burn any building lumber, and 99% of the time I burned Douglas Fur,....now, the dealer gave me a new air tube free of cost, ...but I am still puzzled as to why it did what it did. I am guessing I burned too hot with the damper open for the first part of the winter,..is this a good excuse?

I replaced the air tube, and the chimney gets swept and inspected on 7 Sept.
 
detmurds said:
After using my fireplace for 100% of the heating last year, my Avolon "Pendelton" air tube warped. No I did not burn any building lumber, and 99% of the time I burned Douglas Fur,....now, the dealer gave me a new air tube free of cost, ...but I am still puzzled as to why it did what it did. I am guessing I burned too hot with the damper open for the first part of the winter,..is this a good excuse?

I replaced the air tube, and the chimney gets swept and inspected on 7 Sept.

Sounds about right on the cause... Remember that softwoods like fir tend to burn hotter than the typical hardwoods, even though they don't burn as long. Thus it is probably easier to over-fire while burning softwoods, leading to damage of this sort. (Note that you might not want to say this to the dealer - remember that overfiring voids warrantees...)

Gooserider
 
Yeah, to me it sounds like you're allowing the open damper burn at the beginning of a new load to last a little too long. I've done the same thing and seen my tubes glowing red for a while, but I used much thick stainless than necessary so no warping took place. Just cut that wide open time down and step down, instead of remaining at wide open the whole time. In other words, leave it wide open for a new fuel load maybe 5 minutes, then step it to 3/4 open for five and then half for five and then put it back to the desired heat output level. That's just an example, of course things will vary for you, but you get the idea.
 
Thanks Corie, and Gooserider,...last winter was my first year burning, and I learned after about a few months that I was doing two things very wrong,..burning wood too hot, and burning wood very fast,...good thing I had enough. I think I am now like most good firewood,...seasoned and better for burning from learning this experience!

This year I have about 10 cords, and recently I have built a 16 foot by 8 foot wood shed,..at 10 feet high in the front, and about 8.5 feet in height in the back. I will start a new thread with pics of it here soon.
 
Burning mostly fir and soft maple last year, I could leave the air open full for only a few minutes and then I'd have to adjust the air down to the "sweet spot". A few times my wife loaded it up and let it rip simply because she forgot about it. I'd come home and see this ball of flame (in the stove) from the drive way...I couldn't get into the house fast enough!
 
hilly said:
Burning mostly fir and soft maple last year, I could leave the air open full for only a few minutes and then I'd have to adjust the air down to the "sweet spot". A few times my wife loaded it up and let it rip simply because she forgot about it. I'd come home and see this ball of flame (in the stove) from the drive way...I couldn't get into the house fast enough!

So I take it that you agree with what caused my problem? Go Red Wings!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.