PROFILE 20. SER # WH5513 YEAR 2000 NOT SURE WHAT HAPPENED, BUT HOUSE FILLED WITH SMOKE AND NOW IT WON'T TURN ON. On the back of the control panel are three plugs. Once the large plug on the bottom is plugged in, the breaker in the power cord trips. I unplugged everything I could and plugged the large plug back in with the same results. The only thing I could not unplug was one of the high temp switches, Does this sound like a control board issue? Or could it be something else? Thank you.
Bad control Board?
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Salty
Minister of Fire
Update.......If I unplug the igniter the stove will power up. Obviously it will not fire. If I plug the igniter in after powering up the stove, the circuit does not blow. If I leave the igniter plugged in prior to powering up the stove, the circuit blows. How can I check the igniter itself? Does anyone know the readings I should get on a meter? Thanks
Salty
Minister of Fire
Should see very low ohms across the ignitor it's a coil of nichrome wire inside I believe. You might be able to find the current specs on graingers website, you know it's 110v so r=e/i resistance=voltage divided by current
To me it sounds more like a bad scr on the control board and not a bad ignitor. If it was the ignitor it would pop it all the time when it's plugged in?
To me it sounds more like a bad scr on the control board and not a bad ignitor. If it was the ignitor it would pop it all the time when it's plugged in?
Salty
Minister of Fire
Thanks, but I think I read somewhere that the control board only supplies power to the igniter at the initial start up and for only a short time. Not sure tho.
UPDATE.......
If I unplug the lead to the igniter with the inline fuse, and leave the other lead plugged in, the stove will start up. If I leave the inline fuse plugged in and the other lead off, the stove will not power up and will lust trip the breaker located in the power cord. I am stumped
If the igniter were bad, wouldn't it blow the inline fuse too?
If I unplug the lead to the igniter with the inline fuse, and leave the other lead plugged in, the stove will start up. If I leave the inline fuse plugged in and the other lead off, the stove will not power up and will lust trip the breaker located in the power cord. I am stumped
If the igniter were bad, wouldn't it blow the inline fuse too?Another idea......Could I just have a bad power cord? It has an inline gfi. Could that be bad? Not able to handle the load of the igniter upon start up?
heat seeker
Minister of Fire
Sounds like the ignitor or its wire is shorted to ground. Can you disconnect both leads going to the ignitor and measure their resistance to ground? My 2¢ is on a short to ground.
tjnamtiw
Minister of Fire
heat seeker said:
You beat me to it! Sure sounds like the lead going to the igniter is shorted to the frame of the stove. It probably goes through a small hole in the body. That's the first place I would look.
Thanks, I will be checking that, but upon first look, it does not appear that the wires for the igniter pass thru any of the frame. If that were the case though, do you think the in line fuse would blow every time its' powered up?
tjnamtiw
Minister of Fire
PROFILE20 said:
It sure would blow if it's shorted to the frame. I don't have your stove but the wires most likely run from your control box into the area below your burn pot so I would do some wire tracing (unplugged
) from the igniter all the way back to the in-line fuse and control box.Here's a good place to look for Whitfield troubleshooting info:
www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm
www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm
Thanks guys. I removed the igniter....No obvious issues with the wires. I powered it directly and it heated right up, No blown Fuses. Everything points to the control board not being able to handle the load from the igniter. I may just bite the bullet and replace the board, igniter and high temp switches. The stove is 10 years old and this is MUCH cheaper than buying a new one.
tjnamtiw
Minister of Fire
heat seeker
Minister of Fire
If it's the breaker on the power strip, I'd try another power strip. That breaker may be hyper-sensitive.
tjnamtiw
Minister of Fire
the ends go to the control board. One has an inline fuse the other does not. No matter how the igniter is powered, it does not blow the inline fuse. ODD!
tjnamtiw
Minister of Fire
Questions were asked about your GFI power cord. Did you try the stove without it? GFI's are a royal PITA. If you've tried that then, given the fact that the igniter plugs directly into the control box, then there must be a short in the box when the relay pulls in. If it were me, I'd have that box apart and see where those igniter leads go to, look at the traces on the board, and consider replacing the relay IF none of the other things show a problem.
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