Cast Iron Restoration

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30WCF

Minister of Fire
Aug 31, 2016
907
North Carolina
I got a couple pieces of cast iron to clean up and start using.

First off is a Griswold pan. We had one of these when I was a kid. An egg is all I know to cook in them. But for $25 at a junk shop, let’s have some eggs.
I know about E-tanks, but it’s a cooker. I hit it with some sandpaper after a soak in vinegar water. It’s ready to see some action.

Let’s see what y’all have done or are doing.


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It’s smooth to the touch and should season up nicely.
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I have a fair collection. Just under 300 pieces. Think I have posted on here. I'm cooking moderator on the WAGS forum.

Some WAGS folks have thousands of pieces.
 
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Just a tip. Sandpaper reduces value of vintage cookware. Lye bath strips nicely for seasoning.
 
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I just checked. The late David Smith's site is still up. Has cleaning and seasoning. Panman.com.
 
Todays find:
Montgomery Ward waffle iron. Really good shape,,,,,,,except for a big hunk missing out if the side of one of the paddles. I’ve got a plan for that though. It involves a turkey fryer, a welder, bondo, and sand paper.
I took it up front and showed the folks at the counter the damaged spot. I explained that it didn’t appear that it was priced as a damaged item, and that the damage looked recent. Clean, grey, rough texture of the freshly exposed surface had never seen heat and grease, use or restoration. I offered $25, they called the seller and I left with it. The seller said it was in perfect shape when they put it in their booth. Somebody mishandled it while looking at it and probably dropped it, not knowing it’s actually three pieces that are in no way attached.
I know, I know, you can’t weld cast. Well, actually you can. This is not structural. It will see thermal changes, so different expansion rates may cause an issue with use, but I think it will be ok for normal use. Extreme, rapid temp changes is where it may be a problem. I’ll put $25 on that horse.
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Just a tip. Sandpaper reduces value of vintage cookware. Lye bath strips nicely for seasoning.
I do understand. It was smooth wet sanded, and with a couple weeks of bacon grease it will be blackened and my belly will be none the wiser.
 
I have a fair collection. Just under 300 pieces. Think I have posted on here. I'm cooking moderator on the WAGS forum.

Some WAGS folks have thousands of pieces.
I just looked up WAGS. An I going to have to join another forum?
 
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Just a tip. Sandpaper reduces value of vintage cookware. Lye bath strips nicely for seasoning.
I didn’t mean to discredit or disrespect your post.
I bought it for me to use. So I wasn’t overly concerned about value, although it’s a name I know is valued.
I did take care not to leave gouge marks with a crude sanding, and expect that once fully seasoned, it will be just fine for cooking in.
I will accept criticism and would like to be educated in whatever I’m dealing with.
I left the base metal intact and didn’t “dig” deep to remove all the old season. The dark spots left are the low places in the cast, or possibly some rust pits from the past.
In all seriousness, tell me what you see, and if I damaged the pan. At the end of the day, I didn’t buy it for resale or anything, but I’d still like to know if I damaged it for future reference.

It does have a few coats of Crisco on it and a couple hours in the oven for reference.
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I also use Crisco for seasoning. Having pierogi for dinner tonight. Will use a no. 10 skillet. 😀
 
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Your no. 3 looks to be: "small logo (late handle) c. 1944 to 1957." Smith & Wafford's blue book, page 14.
 
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I restore cast iron cooking utensils with electrolysis
It is the way to go. Basicly zero effort involved with removing the built on crud.I have a tall tank with sacrificial stainless steel on 4 sides i have done 2 fry pans at a time.
I have a 1910 Wagner waffle iron that i use all my fry pans are Griswalds that i have restored,from 4" to 14".
I also use my etank to restore chainsaw bars,rusted chains anything metal that you want the rust off of.
I found a low profile hydrolic jack at the dump that was all rusty the pump and release screw would not work.I hung it in the tank so the bottom of the jack was under water.Next day i pummed it out and had a working jack.
E Tanks are awesome.
You need a constant battery charger,not an auto one.I tried 3 and 6 amp ones and didn't see any difference,a container to hold the water and sodium carbonate mix,sacrificial metal,some wire and alligator clips.
My tank is a tall plastic garbage can with a 4" strip of stainless steel hanging on 4 sides,The - from the charger goes to the sacrificial metal the positive to the piece you are cleaning hang it off some wood in the middle of the tank and check it the next day.If everything isn't falling off do another day.