Is it not common for chimney fires to occur in the connector pipe? I was just wondering if there would be an issue for folks that top vent into a long lets say 10-15' section of single wall before going into a class a cieling support box.
greenteam said:most stoves list the maximum length of connector pipe usually less that 6' or code limits to being a short length. I know of no incidents connector pipe is anywhere near 15'
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greenteam said:from your manual...tHE MAXIMUM VERTICAL RUN OF SINGLE WALL STOVEPIPE SHOULD NOT
EXCEED 10 FT.
Eh BB. The general thinking is that the angle of repose for creosote is 30° off plumb and as such class A elbows may not exceed 30°. That pic looks to be about 45° and I would not be comfortable with it. I am not stating it as a code requirement, just my personal comfort factor.BrotherBart said:greenteam said:most stoves list the maximum length of connector pipe usually less that 6' or code limits to being a short length. I know of no incidents connector pipe is anywhere near 15'
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LLigetfa said:"Eh BB. The general thinking is that the angle of repose for creosote is 30° off plumb and as such class A elbows may not exceed 30°. That pic looks to be about 45° and I would not be comfortable with it. I am not stating it as a code requirement, just my personal comfort factor.
BrotherBart said:The big problem I have with the one in the pic I posted is support at those angles. Just looks scary to me.
Wonder how close that pipe is to the wall?BrotherBart said:The big problem I have with the one in the pic I posted is support at those angles. Just looks scary to me.
WOW..never seen anything like it!BrotherBart said:greenteam said:most stoves list the maximum length of connector pipe usually less that 6' or code limits to being a short length. I know of no incidents connector pipe is anywhere near 15'
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LLigetfa said:As the air around a vertical pipe heats, it continues to rise upward along the pipe as hot air so the losses diminish. The angled pipe would have greater losses because the hot air would not follow the pipe.
Ja, I know it. In the old days we would start with 8" pipe so that we could capture more heat cuz the flue gases moved slower. As the pipe snaked around, we would reduce to 7" using a long taper to keep the velocity up as the gasses cooled, then reduce again to 6" at the thimble. The pipe would hang from eye bolts in the ceiling with snare wire.Hass said:A lot of people who are trying to "be the most efficient" run their stove pipe like that...
Same thing jumped out at me. That's a lot of hot pipe not to be supported.BrotherBart said:The big problem I have with the one in the pic I posted is support at those angles. Just looks scary to me.
In the old days we would start with 8" pipe so that we could capture more heat cuz the flue gases moved slower. As the pipe snaked around, we would reduce to 7" using a long taper to keep the velocity up as the gasses cooled, then reduce again to 6" at the thimble.Same thing jumped out at me. That's a lot of hot pipe not to be supported.
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