Complete newbie to pellet and have several questions about an Advantage WP2

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kantonburg

New Member
Nov 2, 2008
9
Virginia
I searched a bit, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

A bit of background. A good friend of mine's father changed from pellet to propane this past summer. Moving into a new house my wife and I were looking for some supplement heat this winter (we removed a homemade woodstove) and he told me to take the stove try it out for a week or two and if I liked it he'd sell it to me for $300. His son has and he had their stoves vented directly into their chimney going directly from the 3" to a 6" stovepipe through the wall and directly up the chimney. So when I went to the hardware store to get some pipe and a reducer I was kind of surprised when the guy told me that I would need a 3" or 4" pipe all way up the chimney. Granted I probably should have researched a bit more, but for the price it was hard to pass up. Even though I'm not out anything at the moment.

So my question is. Is it necessary to have the pipe up the chimney or can I just use 3" insulated pipe from the stove through the hearth? Or are there any other options? I'm sorry for the basic questions. I've never lived anywhere that had anything but electric or gas heat. We have electric here, but the downstairs gets quite chilly. Also as for the insulated pipe I see Simpson Duravent a lot when googling. Is that good pipe or is there an equivalent cheaper option?

Also can you download the manual to a WP2 somewhere? I couldn't find it on Lennox's site.
 
I hate to bump my own thread, but the more I read the more I see it's recommended to have a liner for the chimney. Thats fine. My question now is why? I honestly don't know.

That and the manual. I don't even mind paying. I found a few sites that have the pdf download for $10. I just can't find the Whitfield WP2 listed.

thanks again
 
kantonburg said:
I searched a bit, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

A bit of background. A good friend of mine's father changed from pellet to propane this past summer. Moving into a new house my wife and I were looking for some supplement heat this winter (we removed a homemade woodstove) and he told me to take the stove try it out for a week or two and if I liked it he'd sell it to me for $300. His son has and he had their stoves vented directly into their chimney going directly from the 3" to a 6" stovepipe through the wall and directly up the chimney. So when I went to the hardware store to get some pipe and a reducer I was kind of surprised when the guy told me that I would need a 3" or 4" pipe all way up the chimney. Granted I probably should have researched a bit more, but for the price it was hard to pass up. Even though I'm not out anything at the moment.

So my question is. Is it necessary to have the pipe up the chimney or can I just use 3" insulated pipe from the stove through the hearth? Or are there any other options? I'm sorry for the basic questions. I've never lived anywhere that had anything but electric or gas heat. We have electric here, but the downstairs gets quite chilly. Also as for the insulated pipe I see Simpson Duravent a lot when googling. Is that good pipe or is there an equivalent cheaper option?

Also can you download the manual to a WP2 somewhere? I couldn't find it on Lennox's site.

Whitfield Advantage WPII?

http://www.pelletking.com/pellet-stove-manuals/Whitfield-Advantage-IIT-Pellet-Stove-Manual.pdf
 
kantonburg said:
I hate to bump my own thread, but the more I read the more I see it's recommended to have a liner for the chimney. Thats fine. My question now is why? I honestly don't know.

That and the manual. I don't even mind paying. I found a few sites that have the pdf download for $10. I just can't find the Whitfield WP2 listed.

thanks again

The reason for needing a chimney liner in a full size chimney is that the pellet stove will not get the temperature high enough in the chimney to cause a draft to pull smoke up.

How to determine if a reline with a chimney liner is needed:

* The cross sectional area of the flue of a chimney venting solid fuels with no walls exposed to the outside below the roof line is more than three times the cross-sectional area of appliance flue collar.
* The cross-sectional area of the flue of a chimney venting solid fuels with one or more walls exposed to the outside below the roof line is more than two times the cross sectional area of appliance flue collar

---scott
 
I had my stove installed years ago into a brand new triple insulated pipe that goes from lower level of raised ranch along side pipe for fireplace on main floor. This was installed by dealer and the installer used a connector from 3" to 6" (I think, whatever standard new insulated pipe was in 94 when house was built). I've never had an issue although stove has been lightly used over years. Are you saying mine is incorrectly done and I should re-do with a 3" pipe all the way through roof??
 
darkstar said:
kantonburg said:
I searched a bit, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

A bit of background. A good friend of mine's father changed from pellet to propane this past summer. Moving into a new house my wife and I were looking for some supplement heat this winter (we removed a homemade woodstove) and he told me to take the stove try it out for a week or two and if I liked it he'd sell it to me for $300. His son has and he had their stoves vented directly into their chimney going directly from the 3" to a 6" stovepipe through the wall and directly up the chimney. So when I went to the hardware store to get some pipe and a reducer I was kind of surprised when the guy told me that I would need a 3" or 4" pipe all way up the chimney. Granted I probably should have researched a bit more, but for the price it was hard to pass up. Even though I'm not out anything at the moment.

So my question is. Is it necessary to have the pipe up the chimney or can I just use 3" insulated pipe from the stove through the hearth? Or are there any other options? I'm sorry for the basic questions. I've never lived anywhere that had anything but electric or gas heat. We have electric here, but the downstairs gets quite chilly. Also as for the insulated pipe I see Simpson Duravent a lot when googling. Is that good pipe or is there an equivalent cheaper option?

Also can you download the manual to a WP2 somewhere? I couldn't find it on Lennox's site.

Whitfield Advantage WPII?

http://www.pelletking.com/pellet-stove-manuals/Whitfield-Advantage-IIT-Pellet-Stove-Manual.pdf

Here is the label under the lid.

th_IMG_2247.gif


Click for bigger version. Also the pdf posted does look like it.
 
kbd627 said:
I had my stove installed years ago into a brand new triple insulated pipe that goes from lower level of raised ranch along side pipe for fireplace on main floor. This was installed by dealer and the installer used a connector from 3" to 6" (I think, whatever standard new insulated pipe was in 94 when house was built). I've never had an issue although stove has been lightly used over years. Are you saying mine is incorrectly done and I should re-do with a 3" pipe all the way through roof??

I am by no means an expert on this, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. If your install works, then I would not bother to change it. Their are so many variables that go into venting these things - prevailing winds, air circulation around your house, etc etc. If you suddenly found yourself with a problem with heavier use, then I would look into changes, yes.

---scott
 
darkstar said:
kbd627 said:
I had my stove installed years ago into a brand new triple insulated pipe that goes from lower level of raised ranch along side pipe for fireplace on main floor. This was installed by dealer and the installer used a connector from 3" to 6" (I think, whatever standard new insulated pipe was in 94 when house was built). I've never had an issue although stove has been lightly used over years. Are you saying mine is incorrectly done and I should re-do with a 3" pipe all the way through roof??

I am by no means an expert on this, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. If your install works, then I would not bother to change it. Their are so many variables that go into venting these things - prevailing winds, air circulation around your house, etc etc. If you suddenly found yourself with a problem with heavier use, then I would look into changes, yes.

---scott

thanks Scott. I figure if it wasn't going up chimney it would be coming into house and no smell when stove is on. Pulled out my manual and it says "adapters are available from 3" or 4" L-Vent to 6" or 8" Class-A chimney. As an alternative 3 or 4 L-Vent can be run inside existing chimney to termination. This is the preferred method" Had my stove since 97 maybe the connection isn't advised anymore.
 
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