country hearth 2000 wood stove problems

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How are you running the stove? What temps are you running at on the stove top and the pipe? How far and when are you shutting it back?
I don't know the temperatures that it's running at or the any of the particulars like that. I start it up, adjust the damper after it's going for a little while and that's it. I just think that it's( this stove, Country hearth 20000) not adequate for this house. I appreciate your questions and replies. Thanks very much.
 
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The house is about 2500 sq. ft.
Chimney size?? is a completely new one which works great.
The wood is mixed( oak, ash, mulberry in there too) seasoned hardwoods with various moisture contents I suppose. Some seasoned more than others.
I appreciate your feedback. Thank you.
 
I don't know the temperatures that it's running at or the any of the particulars like that. I start it up, adjust the damper after it's going for a little while and that's it. I just think that it's( this stove, Country hearth 20000) not adequate for this house. I appreciate your questions and replies. Thanks very much.
Well you obviously dont want any help so i am out as well.
 
Helen, what the folks are trying to get is about the information you're not giving them. The chimney (new or older) size is Important because it needs to be the right size for proper drafting. Ideally, it would be 6 inches, the same output size of your stove's flue outlet. If the chimney is larger (anything more than an 8 x 8), sufficient draft might not be developed by the chimney so that the stove will burn properly. The chimney drives the stove, not vice versa. If you don't have a stove top thermometer to let you know what the stove top temps are, its hard to say if you are adjusting the air control correctly or again, the chimney may not be drafting well enough so stove top temp can develop properly. Ideally, you want to adjust stove top temp to somewhere between 350-700 degrees stove top temp, where its comfortable for you. Which brings us to fuel, if the fuel isn't dry enough, it too will not allow the stove temp to get to where you need to be. Finally, I looked that stove up, its about 1.85 cuft in the firebox, enough to heat adequately around 1200-1400 sqft. Steel stoves such as yours are usually easy to operate and use, but it still requires certain conditions be met. That's if your house holds heat reasonably and we have normal winter temps. The cold we've experienced this past couple of weeks, you need to cut that in half for square footage. People are trying to help, I hope this does.....
 
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I’m sorry guys I know it’s an old post but I’m only replying because,
1) don’t want misinformation
2) it’s almost always user error
3) was looking up my stove specs ;)

I have this stove. Only problem I get is it’s way too hot. House 2400 square feet. Maybe more after reassessment.

Where stove is installed highest temp was 98 degrees. Had to open windows. Damp it down. Stove top about 700ish. Don’t remember.

6 inch pipe, up and outside through wall. 2 elbows. 18-21 feet vertical triple wall.

I’m actually looking for something smaller now because can’t spread the heat throughout the house so just want to have a nice small stove just for that area.

It ain’t the greatest stove out there but it works.
 
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I’m sorry guys I know it’s an old post but I’m only replying because,
1) don’t want misinformation
2) it’s almost always user error
3) was looking up my stove specs ;)

I have this stove. Only problem I get is it’s way too hot. House 2400 square feet. Maybe more after reassessment.

Where stove is installed highest temp was 98 degrees. Had to open windows. Damp it down. Stove top about 700ish. Don’t remember.

6 inch pipe, up and outside through wall. 2 elbows. 18-21 feet vertical triple wall.

I’m actually looking for something smaller now because can’t spread the heat throughout the house so just want to have a nice small stove just for that area.

It ain’t the greatest stove out there but it works.
That is what i have heard from others about these stoves
 
Never had an issue with heat output, just reliability issues.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I stumbled across it while trying to troubleshoot the problems I'm having with this stove and I'm hoping maybe someone can help me out.

I've had this stove for about a month. Everything is brand new and installed according to spec. My house is 1920sq ft. The stove is installed in my kitchen. Top of stove to ceiling is approx. 5ft. From there it goes through an upstairs room, where there is a 3 ft. section at a 15°offset. Probably about 6ft of pipe through that room. From there it goes straight up through the roof. The length of pipe above the roof is about 11.5 ft (to be safely clear of another section of roof with a steep pitch.) To be honest, I don't know much about wood yet, but I've had 2 different loads delivered which I was told was fully seasoned and all hardwood. I have burned from both batches and it all ignites within 90 seconds, no popping or hissing. I don't have a moisture meter yet. I made sure the baffle board is positioned correctly.

I struggle to keep this stove lit. No matter how strong the flame gets with the damper wide open, it wants to die when I push the damper in a little. When it does stay lit, it is almost impossible to get up to temperature. The warmest my kitchen gets is mid 60's and that's only if I'm home to babysit the darn thing. It takes serious effort and a little help from Jesus. Most of the time my kitchen is in the 50's with the rest of the house being unbearably cold. I hope I've provided enough info that someone can suggest some ideas.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I stumbled across it while trying to troubleshoot the problems I'm having with this stove and I'm hoping maybe someone can help me out.

I've had this stove for about a month. Everything is brand new and installed according to spec. My house is 1920sq ft. The stove is installed in my kitchen. Top of stove to ceiling is approx. 5ft. From there it goes through an upstairs room, where there is a 3 ft. section at a 15°offset. Probably about 6ft of pipe through that room. From there it goes straight up through the roof. The length of pipe above the roof is about 11.5 ft (to be safely clear of another section of roof with a steep pitch.) To be honest, I don't know much about wood yet, but I've had 2 different loads delivered which I was told was fully seasoned and all hardwood. I have burned from both batches and it all ignites within 90 seconds, no popping or hissing. I don't have a moisture meter yet. I made sure the baffle board is positioned correctly.

I struggle to keep this stove lit. No matter how strong the flame gets with the damper wide open, it wants to die when I push the damper in a little. When it does stay lit, it is almost impossible to get up to temperature. The warmest my kitchen gets is mid 60's and that's only if I'm home to babysit the darn thing. It takes serious effort and a little help from Jesus. Most of the time my kitchen is in the 50's with the rest of the house being unbearably cold. I hope I've provided enough info that someone can suggest some ideas.
Im willing to bet all the tea in china that's its your wood, the stove performance wise was a great heater, nothing wrong in that aspect, you also seem to have a lot of chimney - 5ft in stove room, 6ft in the attic, and another 15ft outside so draft shouldn't be an issue. Im guessing that you bought this stove at TSC, if so stop back and pick up a few bundles of the redstone compressed wood bricks, lit a kindling fire and then place the bricks on top, let them catch then start turning the air down in quarter increments until you get lazy flames, also learn that finding a truly seasoned wood seller is like finding a needle in a hay stack.
 
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finding a truly seasoned wood seller is like finding a needle in a hay stack.
it all ignites within 90 seconds, no popping or hissing.
It might not hiss within 90 seconds. Have you opened the door after the wood has been burning ten minutes or more, after loading on a decent coal bed? If it's hissing or if you see moisture on the ends of the splits, it's not dry.
 
Im willing to bet all the tea in china that's its your wood, the stove performance wise was a great heater, nothing wrong in that aspect, you also seem to have a lot of chimney - 5ft in stove room, 6ft in the attic, and another 15ft outside so draft shouldn't be an issue. Im guessing that you bought this stove at TSC, if so stop back and pick up a few bundles of the redstone compressed wood bricks, lit a kindling fire and then place the bricks on top, let them catch then start turning the air down in quarter increments until you get lazy flames, also learn that finding a truly seasoned wood seller is like finding a needle in a hay stack.
Thanks for the quick response! I will try some different wood and see if that makes a difference. I have been experimenting with loading the wood in the stove different ways and am noticing that some ways work better than others. Thanks for the tip!
 
It might not hiss within 90 seconds. Have you opened the door after the wood has been burning ten minutes or more, after loading on a decent coal bed? If it's hissing or if you see moisture on the ends of the splits, it's not dry.
I have opened the door during different stages of the burn and have not at any point seen or heard signs of moisture. Not saying that the wood isn't the problem though. It sounds like my next step is to try a different batch of wood and see what happens. Thanks!
 
So I have this same stove, the country hearth 2000. I also have really struggled to get heat out of it. I've also rarely got it into the secondary burn stage and if I do, it lasts five minutes or less. The firebox must be really insulated as it has a 12" distance to combustables. My hearth walls only get to like 110 degrees after a long burn

I've been running the stove for 6 hours today and my thermostat still reads the 70 degrees we set it at. It is a huge open space but still. There's no way I could heat my house in a power outage and cold temps --it was sunny mid 30s today.

I have a 14 foot of double wall pipe inside with a slight offset using two 45s, then another 9 foot of class A pipe out the roof.

My draft seems really strong and I haven't notice too much change if I open a window (my house is pretty air tight). But is there any way to measure draft?

My wood was dried and indoors for many years but since I've moved it hasn't been covered, so it's been rained on and snowed on. But I've been leaving on my porch t dry out before I burn it (nothing goes in visibly wet). My manual has a test procedure to verify if the wood is dry enough, and the wood passes easily.

I did buy some kiln dried wood to try, but I'd like some advice on the whole re-burn tubes thingy. How hot does the stove have to get? Without a buge coal bed I can't get the top much over 500 at the hottest spot. Is that enough to dial down into the re-burn phase? Like I said I can't get it to work. And because the stove must be insulated and doesn't put out much heat I must be losing heat straight up the chimney right.?? What should my Lazer gun read on double wall pipe?

Ugh so many questions.
 
Ugh so many questions.
I ran the big brother to this stove (2500) , check your draft with a manometer, if above .07" h2o then your pulling way to strong and can benefit with a key damper to slow things down.
The 2500 pumped out some serious heat, I had it originally upstairs in my living room but I had to move it to the basement because it was just to much heat. When I moved it into the basement my chimney run was longer and I suddenly suffered with lots of coaling, shorter burn times, generally poor performance. At that time I already had ordered my BK so I never really tinkered with it, but with the bk I was running to high of a draft and added a key damper which brought things under control and improved my performance.
 
For a cheap stove ($399) it works fine in a small space. I have this stove in less than 1000 SF space and other than not being able to get a lot of wood in it,it burns just fine. Actually quite well. Doesnt seem to need alot of draft as i have it piped into a 12"flue in a masonry chimney.
 
I ran the big brother to this stove (2500) , check your draft with a manometer, if above .07" h2o then your pulling way to strong and can benefit with a key damper to slow things down.
The 2500 pumped out some serious heat, I had it originally upstairs in my living room but I had to move it to the basement because it was just to much heat. When I moved it into the basement my chimney run was longer and I suddenly suffered with lots of coaling, shorter burn times, generally poor performance. At that time I already had ordered my BK so I never really tinkered with it, but with the bk I was running to high of a draft and added a key damper which brought things under control and improved my performance.

So what you saying is... When you moved it to your basement you got more draft?? And that put out less heat??

How exactly would one hook a manometer up to a stove ?? Drill a hole in the stove pipe? I'd rather not do that.... And wood you test it while the fire is going or coaled (see what I did there? haha)
 
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I find my stoves put out more heat when the draft is better. A strong draft allows me to cut the air adjustment back farther.
 
So I have this same stove, the country hearth 2000. I also have really struggled to get heat out of it. I've also rarely got it into the secondary burn stage and if I do, it lasts five minutes or less. The firebox must be really insulated as it has a 12" distance to combustables. My hearth walls only get to like 110 degrees after a long burn........."/QUOTE]

I have the 2000 and it took me a while to learn that it needs to be warmed up for a good hour or two before it will get hot enough to burn wood and get the afterburners to kick in. Then it gets very hot. I can heat our 1700 sq feet with it to about 70-72 degrees, when it's 17 or so outside. I can't tell you if it can handle more than that, because it rarely gets much colder here. I had a stove top thermometer tonight read about 520 degrees F, so it can get there, but it takes a lot to warm it up. I was having draw trouble a couple of months ago, really bad with smoke backing up into the home. Almost gave up on it. But, I tried different techniques (from this forum and youtube) to both warm up the firebox and warm up the flue to get draw going. It works pretty well once it gets going.
I wanted to let you know that it wasn't just yours. I like mine, but it is fussy.
 
So I have this same stove, the country hearth 2000. I also have really struggled to get heat out of it. I've also rarely got it into the secondary burn stage and if I do, it lasts five minutes or less. The firebox must be really insulated as it has a 12" distance to combustables. My hearth walls only get to like 110 degrees after a long burn
I've been running the stove for 6 hours today and my thermostat still reads the 70 degrees we set it at. It is a huge open space but still. There's no way I could heat my house in a power outage and cold temps --it was sunny mid 30s today.
.
This is the wrong stove for a "HUGE open space" as per your post. Its a 2CU ft small stove for a small place. That said MY Country Hearth 2000 screams heat out of a just a few pieces of wood. The stove top temps go right to 600+ secondaries blazing the whole time. Either you have a wet wood problem or there is something off(wrong) with your stove. I have it in a 14 x 20 room and it doesnt have any trouble heating that and adjoining rooms. Also if you cant heat the space with a 500 degree stove the stove is too small for the space.
 
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This is the wrong stove for a "HUGE open space" as per your post. Its a 2CU ft small stove for a small place. That said MY Country Hearth 2000 screams heat out of a just a few pieces of wood. The stove top temps go right to 600+ secondaries blazing the whole time. Either you have a wet wood problem or there is something off(wrong) with your stove. I have it in a 14 x 20 room and it doesnt have any trouble heating that and adjoining rooms. Also if you cant heat the space with a 500 degree stove the stove is too small for the space.
Well the stoves rated for 2000 SF and 89,000 BTUs. My houses heat loss is 55,000 btu at -9 degrees. So at Max heat output it should be plenty big enough.

I have only gotten it to 600+ one or two times when it's really loaded up with smaller pieces of wood, like hard wood scraps from my shop. Getting to 500 is tough too and once the wood burns down a bit it's under 500. The sides of the stove are lower than that.
 
Well the stoves rated for 2000 SF and 89,000 BTUs. My houses heat loss is 55,000 btu at -9 degrees. So at Max heat output it should be plenty big enough.
I have only gotten it to 600+ one or two times when it's really loaded up with smaller pieces of wood, like hard wood scraps from my shop. Getting to 500 is tough too and once the wood burns down a bit it's under 500. The sides of the stove are lower than that.
I do believe those ratings are too high ,simply for the size of the firebox alone. Any 2Cu ft firebox will have trouble heating much more than 1000SF without frequent reloading and running maxed out unless the space is very well insulated.IMO. I would rate this stove at no more than 1200SF stove. The 89000 BTUs is also very exaggerated and much more than you could expect from such a small stove. My much larger Harman TL-300 puts out twice as much heat as my CH 2000 and is rated much lower BTU wise. Those ratings are very misleading. You most likely need a 3cu ft capacity stove or more for the space your trying to heat. Dont go by the BTU rating,in most cases its all over the place,especially on the cheap stoves.
 
Yes, marketing, not reality. They are maximum ratings, not steady state output. Technically not a lie, but there is a big difference heating 2000 sq ft in North Carolina vs Vermont.
 
Yes, marketing, not reality. They are maximum ratings, not steady state output. Technically not a lie, but there is a big difference heating 2000 sq ft in North Carolina vs Vermont.
Thats true and also a big difference in an un- insulated or poorly insulated and a well insulated home. My harman TL-300 is listed at a paltry 34000 BTUs and that thing is a heat monster. Would take at least 2 of the CH 2000 stoves to equal the heat output of the Harman. BTU ratings are useless.