Do you like them loose or tight?

[pen]

I had never heard of such a practice until I joined this site. I always figured the joints in stove pipe sealed tight enough on their own and I couldn't justify sealing them w/ cement just to have to break it apart and redo it w/ the mess at each cleaning.

Tonight however I started thinking otherwise. I've got a small fire going to take the chill off and am sitting here at the computer about 15 feet away when I can hear this air leaking noise. I go over and for the first time I can hear air being sucked into the joints!

And to answer your question, no, I was not having a chimney fire. I just installed a new 6 in liner in my chimney that I insulated. I think the liner has improved my draft enough that it actually is sucking hard enough to pull air in there now.

This then is why I ask, who actually does this practice? What are your thoughts on it? How much of a mess does it make doing it. Does it make a difference in creosote build up in the pipes? etc. etc.

pen

 

[BrotherBart]

Before I sealed the joints in the connector pipe for the Jotul F3 in the basement there would always be a shiny stream of creosote running up the pipe from where the cool air leaks at the joints were. After a couple of times with that I sealed every joint with furnace cement putting the pipe back together. Except for at the thimble so I could take it apart for cleaning the connector pipe. It has a stainless steel hose clamp, painted hi-temp black, around that connection.

I want any air to have to go through that stove before it heads for the sky.

 

[weatherguy]

I thought this was going to be an x-rated thread.

 

[pen]

I thought this was going to be an x-rated thread.

and you obviously clicked on it anyway!

pen

 

[jdonna]

You are not out of line on your thinking. I have heard different opinions on this matter, but I went the route of cementing the joints on the Harman Oakwood that I have. Have a decent draft myself and it was pulling air in at stove terminal. It is a pain to pull it apart when you clean it, but well worth it. It did help control the burn rate ever so slightly. Remember to clean your stove pipe when you do a chimney sweep as well.

 

[pen]

You are not out of line on your thinking. I have heard different opinions on this matter, but I went the route of cementing the joints on the Harman Oakwood that I have. Have a decent draft myself and it was pulling air in at stove terminal. It is a pain to pull it apart when you clean it, but well worth it. It did help control the burn rate ever so slightly. Remember to clean your stove pipe when you do a chimney sweep as well.

Thanks for the advice. By adding the SS liner I lost my cleanout and now need to remove these pipes while cleaning to be able to remove the creosote.

pen

 

[jdonna]

I had the same problem as well. When I do a sweep, I put a pie plate on the T with the stove pipe un-attached. I then remove the pie plate and get my shop vac out and suck it up at the bottom of the t.

 

[RoseRedHoofbeats]

Damn. I was going to make the off-color smart aleck remark but I got beat to it. =P

~Rose

 

[jtp10181]

Use double wall pipe, it seals up good without cement and can come apart easily.

 

[Battenkiller]

I don't think it matters one way or the other unless you have a poor draft to begin with. I thought I had a really good draft, but I never actually had it checked. I may accept the free flue eval that the local stove shop offered me. If the draft is poor, I may seal the joints and connections, and block the sump below the thimble with fglass. I would never use double-wall pipe inside my living space. I have plenty of clearance, why waste all that good heat coming off that 300º pipe?

This is what my unsealed flue pipe looks like in the morning after an all-night burn in my ":smoke dragon":

 

[Backwoods Savage]

It is quick and cheap, so why not seal. I've always done it that way and never had a problem.

 

[oldspark]

I guess it depends on the quality of the pipe but mine seem to be tight with out any sealer, I could do a smoke test next time I fire up the stove.

 

[SteveKG]

Among four stoves [well, one is a tiny water heater, but still a wood stove], I have insulated, double-walled, single-walled pipe at various places on different stoves. I have never bothered sealing any joints or connections and have never had a problem with leakage. Or, any I have ever been able to discern.

I am not, by that, suggesting anything one way or the other. But I myself haven't had any problem with just pipe.

 

[PapaDave]

You guys are talking about using furnace cement for this. Is it possible or suggested to use hi-temp furnace caulk in the joints?
Didn't seal the joints when I put in the new pipe. Seems to be fine.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

That should be okay Dave.