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DOLMAR 5100

Post in 'The Gear' started by mike bove, Dec 1, 2008.

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  1. mike bove

    mike bove New Member

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    I am looking for a good saw is the makita version the same saw , or should i go with the dolmar. Iwas looking at previous threads and i am a liitle confused.

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  2. sl7vk

    sl7vk New Member

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    Makita owns Dolmar. Makita saws are rebadged Dolmars (made in Germany). Makita does not offer the 5100 in their brand.

    If you want the 5100, then Dolmar it is.

    I can tell you, that you won't be disappointed if you do.
  3. skinnykid

    skinnykid New Member

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    I have heard great things about the Dolmar 5100. I was pretty close to ordering one. Price is great! But in a recent thread o another site, some are saying that they have alot of issues. Of course then there are guys saying no way.

    I get kind of afraid seeing on I need to spend my money wisely and don't want a problematic saw. I started looking at Stihl in the beginning and find myself looking at Stihl again. I might get a Big used Stihl seeing on how it will be my primary saw and buying used will save me $$.
  4. sl7vk

    sl7vk New Member

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    I'd love for you to link that.... "recent thread" you speak of.

    I've read nothing but great things from the pro's on arboristsite.....
  5. Outdoorsman

    Outdoorsman New Member

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    I've been cutting a good deal more than normal this year, and my 5100 is working very well.

    The thing I like about the Dolmar vs my Stihl saws is the weight to power ratio of the Dolmar is a bit better than it is with my Stihls.

    I like all three of my saws, don't get me wrong. But the Dolmar is clearly the way to go for someone buying new right now, you'll get a lot more saw for your money with Dolmar than with Stihl.

    With Stihl you'll be paying a premium price for what everyone in this country knows to be a premium saw. With Dolmar you'll get the same premium saw quality, but at a much lower price as Dolmar is relatively unknown in the USA.
  6. skinnykid

    skinnykid New Member

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    www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=82145

    Thread is pretty much back and forth about good and bad, seems like alot of people are having the same type of troubles.

    Happy reading!

    As I said, I might still get a Dolmar, but the thread is making me think a little more!
  7. sl7vk

    sl7vk New Member

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    Thanks for that skinny... I'm only to page 10, but I've laughed my a@@ off so far....

    The 5100s is a high performance saw. Don't run a dull chain, and don't run 50:1 unless you're using Domar synthetic.... It says so in the manual.

    I run Huskqvarna XP at 45:1 and the saw just rips like a ***** ape.

    If I find a better quote then the following, I'll let you know.....

  8. skinnykid

    skinnykid New Member

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    I remember reading that quote! Like I said the thread goes 6 different directions. But like I said, I was all ready for a Dolmar and then WHAMMO all this bashing starts!! Kinda scared me!


    What to do, what to do!
  9. sl7vk

    sl7vk New Member

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    If you are worried, then get a 346xp ne, or a 260 pro, or a shindaiwa 488.....

    Don't want you losing sleep at night! :lol:

    Just get the freaking dolmar already. Run her as hard as you can during the warranty period and see what happens......

    The comparable saws are more expensive (expect the Shindaiwa....) so the choice was easy for me..... and I haven't regretted it at all!

    The most recent post is interesting as well.....

  10. WOODBUTCHER

    WOODBUTCHER Minister of Fire

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    I've hacked up close to 7 cords with mine since May, no issues here.

    WoodButcher
  11. Gooserider

    Gooserider Mod Emeritus

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    FWIW, if you read that thread CAREFULLY, it appears that there are at most TWO posters that have actually had a problem with a 5100, and a large part of the bashing is coming from someone that from his handle appears to be either a Stihl dealer, or otherwise heavily involved in Stihl service / sales - not the worlds most unbiased source...

    That said, there also seems to be a good bit of useful advice about the need to richen up the carb settings on the saw in order to avoid problems with overheating due to the EPA forcing the makers to sell the saw set to an over lean configuration, not to mention running a sharp chain, using good gas and oil, etc...

    I wouldn't let that thread scare me away from the 5100 for sure, but I'd definitely listen to the advice on saw maintainance in it...

    Gooserider
  12. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

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    For a "50 cc" saw that dolmer is the best at any price!
  13. Shipper50

    Shipper50 Minister of Fire

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    Dolmar 5100 is the best feeling saw I have ever run, I would buy another, but I have 2. :lol:

    Shipper
  14. day52

    day52 New Member

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    Another vote for the 5100. I put off getting one for too long.
  15. johnn

    johnn New Member

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    Borrowed a "true" friends Dolmar 5100, a few months back. Think I would sleep with it! The saw that is!
  16. skinnykid

    skinnykid New Member

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    Nice recovery!!!!!
  17. mr2autoxr

    mr2autoxr Member

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    I just picked up a 5100 but haven't had the chance to use it yet. I'm new to this (cutting firewood) for the stove and wanted a good saw.

    I've read the thread on arboristsite and the only thing I'm concerned about is the carb settings and mixture ratio.

    For the carb my H and L are all the way CCW or set to max rich as I can understand. I haven't started the saw yet so I'm just nervous now about not having things set correctly and seizing the saw. I've run plenty of 2 stroke dirt bike motors so I should know what a good tune sounds like on these saws. Am I just overly worried? Should I just follow the carb settings instructions in the manual on my first start?

    And for mixture ratios it says in the manual if you aren't using Dolmar oil to use a 40:1 ratio. I assume I should use this then with any Husky or Stihl synthetic oil which is easier to come by around here.

    Thanks
    Mike
  18. Brian VT

    Brian VT Minister of Fire

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    I'm a newb too. My dealer tuned mine before I left. He said to bring it back after 15hrs. for retune.
    I just went to check my settings for you but I couldn't see how to adjust them. There's some rubber Philips looking things hiding the adjustments
    and I didn't feel like messing with them because I've got a few beers in me.
    I don't know what the 40:1 deal is about. I asked him if I could run the same 50:1 Amsoil synthetic that I run in my bike and he said that should be fine.
  19. Gooserider

    Gooserider Mod Emeritus

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    The dealer SHOULD have given you the saw with a good setup and in proper running condition. One of the problems is that EPA mandates require throttle limiting stops on the adjustment screws, which sometimes leaves you on the lean side of where you really ought to be - this can be fixed "surgically" but many dealers won't do it because that can theoretically get them in trouble...

    On the mix ratio, my 7900 says the same thing, and IMHO it's just corporate CYA... They know what's in Dolmar oil, they don't know about anyone elses, so they tell you to run it rich to be on the safe side... However, there is a set of "alphabet soup" SAE specs on the oil in your manual - I forget just what they are offhand, but any of the brand name chainsaw mix oils should meet them (Don't use Outboard motor mix, I'm not sure about bike mix - different service ratings) As long as you are using quality oil, stick with the 50:1 ratio... I would also insist on picking an oil that contained a fuel stabilizer, or adding my own.

    More important, especially these days w/ gov't mandated crap-gas, is to use high quality gas - Dolmar specs 91 octane minimum, and says not to burn alcohol blends. You can't easily avoid the booze blend in a lot of the US, but I would stick with a "name brand" gas, and get their highest grade... I would also only get one gallon at a time (unless you are doing a LOT of cutting and will go through it in less than a month) and not keep it more than about 6 months in a tightly sealed can....

    (I won't go into the oil brand battles, though my own personal choice is to run dino oil for the break in, then switch to synthetics after the first gallon or two of mix)

    Gooserider
  20. day52

    day52 New Member

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    If it were me, I would find someone who knows what they are doing to help you. I can't imagine the saw will run very well with jets set at max CCW, but each saw is a bit different. This particular saw runs a bit faster than most, so tuning by ear isn't quite as reliable unless you know what you are doing. It isn't hard to tune a saw usually, but you can fry one pretty easy if it is too lean. Those @#$%$ limiter caps make it more difficult. I usually take them off first thing, but I have to admit my 5100 runs great set by the dealer, so this far I haven't messed with them. On my 401, I wasn't as lucky, but have it running really well right now with some minor mods. The nice thing about the 5100 at least from what I've heard and read is that tinkering with it doesn't do much. Hence it is a pretty good saw to start with. Hope you get to cut with it soon, I know you'll like it.
  21. Bigg_Redd

    Bigg_Redd Minister of Fire

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    Air cooled 2 strokes (like in chainsaws) are the least picky of all 2 strokes in terms of premix oil. Outboard motors and liquid cooled 2 stroke motorcycles run with about half of the internal tolerances that air cooled engines do and the oil requirements are more stringent. I don't use TCW-III oil in my saw but I have and would again without a second thought.
  22. Gooserider

    Gooserider Mod Emeritus

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    The argument against using TCW-III is that the operating temperature ranges are different, and the oil for the liquid cooled engines can't take the heat of the air cooled units - also worth noting that while a liquid cooled engine has tighter tolerances on the bench, the air-cooled engine will have more dimensional changes as the parts heat up, and both end up about the same tolerances at operating temperatures. Problem is the AC engine gets a lot more abuse, and is closer to the edge of catastrophic failure... One of the big reasons LC engines are popular with engineers is that they are far easier to design for both durability and performance in the same unit.

    What I think is a telling indicator is that you don't see many oils that have both ratings - if they were interchangeable I'd expect that you would as it would presumably be worth doing it for the oil companies.

    Gooserider
  23. Brian VT

    Brian VT Minister of Fire

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    Are you talking only about TCW-III or are you talking about synthetic vs castor ? I just googled TCW-III and I guess it's like any other quality synthetic.
  24. Gooserider

    Gooserider Mod Emeritus

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    Not sure about the earlier post, but my comments were in regards to using oil listed for liquid cooled two-strokes (i.e. outboard boat motors and most modern dirt bikes) as opposed to oil listed for air-cooled outdoor power equipment (chainsaws, weed whackers, blowers, etc)

    IMHO, based on reading equipment manufacturer manuals and web pages, these are two very different applications w/ different service requirements, that should have their own appropriately rated oil used, and not use oil labeled for one application in the other....

    Gooserider
  25. Brian VT

    Brian VT Minister of Fire

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    Sorry. I still don't understand the discussion. I'm not busting on you. I'm just a sponge for new info. and am afraid I'm missing something.

    "Description: Royal Purple® 2-Cycle TCW III is recommended for use in both pre-mixed and oil injected gasoline two-cycle engines in outboard motors, motorcycles, jet skis, chain saws, etc."
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