dumb stove pipe question

[jacsul]

Did a search and couldn't find an answer. I need 8" stove pipe for a fireplace I'm installing at home. Question, can you mix stainless pipe with galvinized pipe. My thought is to put the stainless past the roof. Economics is the deciding factor.
Thanks.

 

[DanCorcoran]

Never use galvanized pipe for stove piping.

 

[bogydave]

Never use galvanized pipe for stove piping.

+1
Galvanize, when heated gives off toxic vapors

 

[cmonSTART]

Now, when you say "stove pipe" are you referring to the actual metal chimney pipe? If so, use any combo of stainless or galvanized you choose. Only the outer wall is different.

As for actual single wall stove pipe, galvanized stove (connector) pipe should never be used with a wood stove.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

Your question isn't dumb. I'm glad you're asking. Regardless of cost, you need to use the proper pipe for the installation. That would be Class A chimney from the ceiling on up, which is stainless inside and can be galvanized on the outer wall. You would then used either single wall steel or stainless steel pipe (never galvanized) or double wall DVL pipe with a stainless interior from the stove to the ceiling. Be sure to follow all manufacturers installation instructions for the stove and the brand chimney you're using, as well as all codes.

 

[begreen]

Good point. It's important to differentiate between chimney pipe - the class A insulated pipe that starts at the ceiling supoport and continues to outdoors, and connector pipe - the pipe that connects the stove to the chimney pipe. Galvanized should not be used for connector pipe, but galvanized class A is fine, even if you want to carry it all the way to outdoors. It's also ok to mix galv. class A with stainless if for example you want to use galv. from the ceiling support box up through the attic and then switch to stainless for the length that penetrates the roof and next section(s) up to the cap.

Edit: what he said. simultaneous posting.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

That's true, you can switch to stainless Class A on the outer wall when you get outside the house but it should be stressed that you must use the same brand, size and model chimney. Not all manufactures make both.

 

[jacsul]

This is the set I purchased, privately. The person bought it for a masonary fireplace and never installed it. So I purchased a zero clearance box for the unit.
http://www.vermontcastings.com/products.asp?model=winterwarm

These are the 2 types I'm looking at use.

This from the the zero clearance box up to about the roof.
http://www.ventingdirect.com/simpso...alvanized-class-a-chimney-pipe-length/p655833


And this from the attic through the roof. I think it would hold up better to the elements.
http://www.ventingdirect.com/simpso...ess-steel-class-a-chimney-pipe-length/p655835

Thanks again.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

I looked up the installation manual-

http://literature.mhsc.com/vermont_castings/manuals/2000888_WinterWarmSi_21.pdf

and the product brochure-

http://literature.mhsc.com/vermont_...10_v01-02_MONN1237_Woodburning-Inserts_BR.pdf

When you say you purchased a zero clearance box for the unit, what did you purchase? Did you purchase a zero clearance fireplace or a zero clearance box designed for this insert made by Vermont Castings? Some manufacturers make these so the insert can be installed into a combustible wall, but I didn't see any mention of that in the manual or brochure. If you purchased a zero clearance fireplace to install into a wall and then put this insert into it, you would need to use the pipe specified for the ZC on it. I also noticed that the Dura Vent you referenced is 8" ID and this unit says it uses 6".

This is the only reference I could find in the manual referring to zero clearance installation-

The WinterWarm Small Insert is also listed for installation in tested and listed factory-built fireplaces. Listings
for factory-built fireplaces include meeting standards
for both the firebox and chimney. Review the owner’s
manual, and inspect the fireplace for metal tags or
labels which give information concerning installation of
inserts into the factory-built fireplace. Codes may permit
removal of the damper in order to install a chimney
liner. Codes may also permit removal of external trim
pieces which do not affect the operation of the unit, as
long as the pieces are stored on or within the fireplace
for re-assembly if the insert is removed. Air flow within
and around the fireplace shall not be altered (louvers
or cooling air inlet or outlet ports may not be blocked).
Louvered surrounds are permitted. Again, check with
local authorities before making any modifications.

 

[jacsul]

It's a few years old. Called the winter warm fireplace system, the zero clearance box I refered to is call a cabinet and can be installed within close proximity to combustables, the fireplace insert installs into that. At one point there were 2 models large ( 50,000 BTU) and small (30,000 BTU) the larger unit requires an 8" chimney, that's the unit I have. The manuel list 5 brands to use; Security ASHT, selkirk metalbestos SS11, GSW building prod. model SC, Metal-Fab Mod. TG and vitroliner HS type HT. My goal is to exceed spec. on a budget, that's why I asked about mixing galvanized and stainless. You are correct, it's class A I want.
thanks

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

I remember the Winterwarm with the cabinet system. That should work fine, as long as you're following installation instructions in the manual. The 8" ID pipe sounds like what you need, but I don't see the Dura Vent pipe listed as one of the brands it's approved for. You'll need to stick with one of the brands you listed. You can check each manufacturers website to see if they offer stainless and galvanized on the outer wall in the same model line. Be careful, because even within the same chimney brand, there can be different lines that aren't compatible (as in Dura Plus and Dura Tech). In most cases, the galvanized works fine outdoors and there's no need to go to the stainless.

 

[ruserious2008]

Not my line but I live by it- There are not dumb questions- only dumb answers

 

[firefighterjake]

Not my line but I live by it- There are not dumb questions- only dumb answers

I don't think you've met some of the people I deal with on a regular basis . . . I can tell you that there are dumb questions, dubmb answers and most certainly dumb people.