Encore 2040 rebuild..

[Woodsplitter67]

So I woke up Saturday morning and I don't know what got into me but at 6am I started to pull apart my stove. By the time my wife woke up there were stove parts all over the place by 9am I was out in the driveway with a wire brush, air compressor and a number of other tools cleaning it up.

I say its a very interesting stove and not as complicated as I thought.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

So I didnt plan on doing a how to thread or I would have taken more pictures of the disassembly.. Ill post pictures and the rebuild if anyone is interested

 

[bigealta]

Yes please. My buddy is rebuilding a jotul f500 and he has not found any good rebuild guides. I'm sure your rebuild will be similar enough to be a big help to many people looking to rebuild their stoves.

His questions were:
What furnace cement to use on the main build?
What cement to use on the reburn tube manifolds?
What torque for bolts?
Best way to clean the stove parts and removing old cement?
Resetting / replacing rope gaskets, when to replace and how to glue into their channels and which glue to use.?
How to set panels together with just 1 person? using straps or the like to hold panels in place during rebuild?

 

[Woodsplitter67]

So my stove is a catalytic stove and doesn't have a reburn tube.
I looked in my rebuild manual for some information that may also help you. Alot of the gaskets for the stove ( front, back left/right sides and bottom ) are adhesive gaskets, this is direct from the manual. Id go this route as it will make installation easier. The front manifold as well as the left and right air manifolds are all gasket with a rutland cement.. photo below. Im using a small tube as I am not doing a full rebuild and I am not fully disassembling this stove.
Iv looked at the gaskets .. from the ones I can see.. and the gaskets look ok. The gaskets that look to be in trouble are the ones that are around the hottest areas which are the refractory engine, fireback, damper housing. All that listed will get new gaskets along with the top of the stove only because I tool it off.
Im also doing the griddle gasket and the door gaskets. the glas gaskets are getting 700 degree high temp silicone and the doors are the rutland cement with new gaskets

The stove was cleaned with a brush and shopvac. All the parts were removed, brought outside and cleaned with a wire brush, wire wheel on the inside stove parts and blown clean with my air compressor. The outside stove parts were cleaned with scotch cloth and blown clean and wiped down, then painted with a rutland 1200 degree flat paint.
The old cement is removed in the gasket channels by using, my dreme, wire brush and a flat head screwdriver, then blown clean
The glass was removed soaked in warm soapy water, soaked in vinegar, wiped clean and reinstalled in the clean painted doors

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Heres a picture of the top of my stove that I painted this weekend.. looks showroom new

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Heres a picture of the paint.

As for some of the other question. This is a cast stove, so im going to be easy on the tightening and using a 1/4 inch ratchet. snugging things well but no need to crush things together

 

[Woodsplitter67]

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Yesterday I finished cleaning up the rest of the stove parts.. painted the stove pipe. My stove pipe is telescoping. For you that have the same I suggest taking it apart and blowing air through it. It works much better cleaned. I found out when doing my end of the year cleaning its better to blow both sections, the debris from cleaning build up over time.. heres a picture of the pipes cleaned and partially painted

 

[Diabel]

Nice work!
What prompted you to do a partial rebuild?

Btw using new stainless steel hardware is a good idea

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Nice work!
What prompted you to do a partial rebuild?

Btw using new stainless steel hardware is a good idea

Curiosity mostly, is what got me to do it. The other was I wasn't sure if my gaskets were going to make 1or 2 seasons more, so I figured Id just open it up. Part of my thought also was Iv been running this stove super hard. Iv been heating my house every winter with it and not turning on the heat, Dont get me wrong, the heats been turned on once or twice when it gest really cold here at night just to make sure nothing freezes and I dont wake up to a house thats 62 degrees in the morning. Over all its woodstove from October to April.


Honestly Im glad I did I probably would have ran into difficulties at some part of the season. The damper gaskets are dry and pretty much shot and the gaskets around the fireback are in bad shape. The engine and fireback are still on ok shape, but Im going to put new ones in anyway while I have it apart

The stove came apart alot easier then advertised. No broken bolts, nothing to drill. Im waiting on the back insulation board and some gaskets. This is what the hold up is right now.

Im so glad that Im doing this, as I have a better understanding of how this stove actually runs and its a complete confidence builder that if something goes wrong that I certainly can fix it.

Just as an FYI I keep replacement parts in my basement.. like a new engine and refractory.. the SS refractory gasket.. that stuff..

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I am starting to put the stove together

My suggestions are this. If you think your having a problem with your stove Is best to order the basic parts well in advance. Me personally, Iv been sitting on a complete rebuild kit for a number of years. I was missing the back insulation board and I bought some gaskets recently.

Dont rush this. Do your maintenance well before heating season. Take your time. This is not as bad as many make it out to be. I had no broken bolts, just alot of clean-up to do

One thing I did notice is that the stove gaskets themselves look great. Gaskets that will require attention would be damper housing/door all around the refractory and refractory engine are the hot spots that take the beating.

Read the rebuild manual alot of the gaskets are adhesive gaskets making the process pretty easy

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Today I installed in this order
fiber form strip gasket
gaskets for refractory
refractory support gasket
refractory support ... then
insulation board and bolt
I used a drill bit and made the hole for the temp probe

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Today after work I got a little done on the stove.. Ill probably finish it up tomorrow.
Basically you just put the refractory engine on the steel support and make sure the engine lines up with the adhesive fiber strip on both sides

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Next put the 4 tabs at 90 degrees on the ss gasket and add the fiber form gasket to it and place it on the engine

 

[Woodsplitter67]

next place the fireback in keeping the ss gasket in place and making sure you line up the adhesive gaskets on the sides. I pushed the refractory into place and tighten down the retaining bolts at the bottom of the refractory.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

next was the damper housing. I did the damper door gasket Thursday night and installed the door and damper rod

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Tonight I did the gasket to the damper housing I checked the damper door to see if it needed adjustments and made sure it worked properly. The whole damper housing/rod/door was installd as 1 unit. This is a 2 person job. 1 person held the refractory in place and the other installed the damper rod through the hole in the stove and the housing then goes right up into place and bolted into place The damper housing holds the top of the refractory into place and the gasket on then housing seals everything.

with all the rain tomorrow.. Ill finish this up

 

[Woodsplitter67]

as a side note any bolts that I see during the process of the rebuild get replaced using all stainless hardware. None of the nuts or bolts that were removed will be used again

 

[Woodsplitter67]

So I finished up the stove today It went like this

On the front of the stove I installed the air wash gasket

 

[Woodsplitter67]

next I did the gaskets on the air wash manifold and the left and right air plates. I used the adhesive gasket for this, as its much easier and you dont need to clean the channels of cement.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

next I install the right and left air plate. on the RIGHT side air plate the air control shold be about 3/4 closed and the thermostat cable needs to be tucked down on the bend that pertruds out on the RHS of the stove casting. There is a half round guide on the air plate that the cable rides on.. You install the air plate and when you move the air control the cable will pop onto the guide on the air plate. next install the air wash manifold

 

[Woodsplitter67]

next is putting the 3/8 self adhesive gasket around the top of the stove. There are 2 nuts underneath the top and 1 pan screw in the.well where the griddle goes

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Lastly you install the heat shield, probe, catalyst, griddle, stovepipe. and if you do all this..

This is what it should look like

 

[Jmorg]

Lastly you install the heat shield, probe, catalyst, griddle, stovepipe. and if you do all this..

This is what it should look like

View attachment 315716

Nicely done, man…looks like new!

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Nicely done, man…looks like new!

thanks very much.. Ill bre adding some additional information..