First system need some advice.

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rprovencher76

New Member
Sep 27, 2010
1
Marlow NH
This is my first post! I am building a cheap system to get my foot in the door this year, and plan to upgrade in the next couple of years, funds are tight but I'd like to get this started.

My situation:
I have run two wood stoves for the last 4 years to heat my house and have run had the following issues:
a) The fireplace flues they are hooked to are too large resulting in cresote build up and chimney fires.
b) Poor air circulation to upper floor due to house layout even with floor grates installed.
c) I am away from the house 10-12 hours so I load a hot stove before I leave in the morning and shut it down to get the burn time, which ends up smoldering and generating even more creosote.

Here's what I have to work with initially:

Wood Boiler: Oneida Royal ACWB-100, 100,000 BTU wood coal combination. I picked this up for $350 it great shape it looks like it's been fired maybe 10 times. The intent is to upgrade this in the net 3 years. If any of you know where to get a manual for this let me know.

Oil Boiler: Typical 120,000 BTU oil with becket burner.

40 gallon stainless super store indirect water storage.

House: If there was a show called broke-dick house my house would be it. It's about 2500 square feet and the main section was built in the 1820's. It has a field stone foundation with limited access so I will have to built unpressurized storage to accomodate. I have replaced windows and added 4 feet of fiberglass to the attic and continue to improve things. One thing to note is I have industrial baseboard in my house (2" steel pipe with 4" steel fins).

Here's what I want to do:

1) Install the Oneida Royal wood boiler with the oil boiler as backup.
2) Use simplest install possible that is functional, and take advantage of low cost controls and materials.
2) Build a non-pressureized storage tank (unless I can fit a propane tank through a 36" wide door frame as pressureized seems simpler install wise).
3) I would like to be able to charge the storage with the wood boiler, reload the boiler and coast 10-12 hours and refire when I get home.

Specific questions:

1) Unpressurized storage size- I have room to build a retangular tank anywhere from 600-900 gallon storage with insulation of 20-30R I did a fair amount of research on thermo storage tank construction and think I can do it cheaper than buying one from Tarm, but need advise on size given house size and boiler capacity. My father in law has an older dunkirk gasification boiler @120,000btu hooked to a pressurized tank that is 6 feet in diameter and 30 feet long so I am not sure if boiler size to storage matters much but maybe with unpressurized it does.

2) Unpressureized storage heat exchanger- Use a homemade copper exchanger, or purchase a flat plate (12" 40 plate? 1" tappings?)? What does the plumbing look like on each setup? How would the controls work?

3) How do I get the system to pull from storage once the boiler has cooled?

3) I have a circulator based system now although much of the copper needs replaced due to pin holes so I an going to repipe in pex and iron pipe due to cost, although I do have 5 Taco 007 circulators and a 5 zone circulator control. What's the best way to pipe this and what should I watch out for?

Thanks for looking and I hope to learn much!
 
First advice - Read, read, read. There are many threads here about storage (pressurized and unpressurized), controls, heat exchangers, etc. Take some time to read. What is your wood supply like? There are two main items to contibute to your creastore buildup - unseasoned wood and damping down your fire. One chimney fire would be enough for me (I lost a house to a electrical fire while we were sleeping years ago - no one hurt - our wood boiler is in an outbuilding and I do not have a fireplace or stove in the house). Nofosil has a good description of his unpressurized storage using copper tube heat exchangers. You can get a free energy loss calculator for the Department of Energy called REScheck. You input your type of house construction, insulation, sizes, etc and you can get a good estimate on the heat loss. Then you can figure out if your boiler could heat the house and storage. I know others will chime in with the specifics but this just a start. Good luck and welcome to the forum. Now go get some more wood ready for next year!
 
To comment on installing the Oneida ACWB-100. I have one and I'm sorry to say that you will NOT get that long of a burn time. Mine is used to heat in floor heating with a fuel/oil burner. (Kinda funny I googled Oneida to look for an automatic damper and this was the 1st thing that I saw)

Last year was my 1st experience with this type of wood boiler as we bought a new house with it already installed in the garage. So having no wood I burned pretty wet stuff. I just fired it up 3 days ago and had some really dry wood burning. I would say actual burn time chucked full MIGHT be 4 hours and still maintaining a temp of 130-140. I plan on retiring this old thing before next winter.
Good luck with yours. Tim
 
First let me say to you'z guy'z that have posted once, Welcome Aboard! :cheese:

Secondly . . . . don't throw out the baby with the bathwater. Sounds like neither of you are too experienced with wood-fired hydronics. Using wood stoves may have given you some experience, but these units are something quite different.

Just do me a favor . . . if the units are inside the residence footprint, be careful! Oil is way cheaper than replacing contents!!

Having said that, read everything you can here. Ask questions. Give yourself a year to get the hang of what you have. Unless money is no object to you, don't run out and buy a boiler now. And if by some chance money is no object . . .

Jimbo
 
I have just built a system that does exactly what you are attempting to do. "Just built" might be the wrong, word..... continuing to tinker with might be better. It is harder than you might think to charge unpressurized storage, turn off the boiler, then heat your house from that heat. I would be happy to share my experience and piping diagram, as well as what I would do differently. I have found my experience to be MUCH different now that I am looking at pipes and boiler water than when I was theorizing on paper a year ago. I am not even sure I would do storage now- my wood gun operates pretty darned well with no storage at all.

1. Keep it SIMPLE. Try to avoid complicated controls, etc. Minimize all components.

2. All things considered I would do an immersion heat exchanger over plate. It saves you a pump and another bath of water you have to keep conditioned in order to protect this pump. It does kill some of your efficiency, however.

Andrew
 
Either way, you can quite easily build your system such that you can add storage at a later date.... just leave a few capped off pipes in the right places. But, you have to work out now what you want your final system to look like.

Andrew
 
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