Flu Temps 1050F ?

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Pallet Pete

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I just finished my outdoor air kit install today and am burning for the first time with it. Previously without it installed my flu would be at 800-900f when the afterburner was in use and 600-700 when not burning. right now my condor is reading 1050 but the stove top is reading 400 is this normal with an oak cuz that seems very hot on the flu to me. I have never had an oak before so this is new territory for me.

Thanks
pete
 
Normally I call the doctor with a flu over 101.5 .... ;)

In all seriousness, I'm no expert but 1000F internal flue temp sounds like its on the borderline.. I'm sure the experts will be along with real advice.
 
Will having more chimney to draft cause it to be cooler ? this is a question I have had for a while as well. sorry mis stated that I meant hotter ?
 
Where is your flue probe mounted in the pipe? This is double wall pipe right?

pen
 
It is 18" from the bottom of the pipe up however there is a vent piece on the stove top that is 2" tall the pipe sits on which makes it 20" up from stove top. This is double wall stainless as well
 
hmm. Would you describe the chimney again? Wondering if you have a very strong draft but your house was tight enough to keep it under control. With open access to air now, maybe the draft is going to be a bit much? Are the stove top temps coming up? Was that 1050 w/ the afterburner engaged or in bypass?

pen
 
My house is a 1800's lath and plaster with no insulation the chimney is 17' tall with no bends in it. The temps where with the afterburner running I shut the air all the way down and its been 20 minutes the stove is still at 900F. I don't hear the afterburner anymore however it is still lit like its burning. It would occasionally get to 950 fast without the oak as well till I got the hang of preventing that.
 
Hmm again. I think you just need some more time to play around w/ the change that has been made to really find out of this condition can be controllable or not. Might just take a change in routine. You didn't happen to remove a huge wad of dust from the air inlet before you put the oak on did you? :p

pen
 
That sounds pretty hot but those down draft stoves do burn some hotter stack temps because the afterburner is in the back of the stove. Maybe call or email Harman and see what they say?
 
:lol: no I didn't ! The stove burns like I have never seen in any of my stoves that much I know its really awesome. It just scared the buggers out of me when I walked in and saw the temps I got them down now but I have to leave it all the way down from what I can tell.

Thanks pen
 
Todd said:
That sounds pretty hot but those down draft stoves do burn some hotter stack temps because the afterburner is in the back of the stove. Maybe call or email Harman and see what they say?

Thats a good idea Todd thanks.
 
I ran my condar probe meter to 1200 today. 1050 is standard every day stuff.

I have a similar setup, vertical 14' double wall stove pipe to class A.
 
I would say that 1050 is a tad high but will not hurt your chimney in fact it should stay nice and clean.. With a good fire going I hit 500 surface temp but it settles down to 450 after a little while.. I think a warm stack is better than a cool stack to prevent flue gasses from condensing inside your chimney..

Ray
 
Highbeam said:
I ran my condar probe meter to 1200 today. 1050 is standard every day stuff.

I have a similar setup, vertical 14' double wall stove pipe to class A.

Wow that is amazing I never hit those temps or needed to before but now with the oak good lord the stove acts like its on nitrous lol

By the way Highbeam ray is catching up to you in number of posts you better step on it ;-P

Pete
 
raybonz said:
I would say that 1050 is a tad high but will not hurt your chimney in fact it should stay nice and clean.. With a good fire going I hit 500 surface temp but it settles down to 450 after a little while.. I think a warm stack is better than a cool stack to prevent flue gasses from condensing inside your chimney..

Ray

Well Ray I put a 2ft pipe on the top of my stack in place of the previous 3ft pipe. I had the 2ft left over from install so that was a freeeeebie anyway it has made a considerable difference today the stove is staying around 550 with afterburner however the flue is at 650 with the afterburner. Man that thing is thrown some solid heat now as well the house got to 87F without a full load in about 45 minutes because I went out side and played pallet pete as boggydave says :lol: . When I came in it was roasting like a sauna and the cat was in the furthest room from the stove on a window sill. Here is the amazing part the stove was still at 550 flue 650 with a very slow nice fire so I put it on the first notch and the fire just floats above the wood and doesn't even touch it AMAZING I love this stove!

Pete
 
Pete1983 said:
Highbeam said:
I ran my condar probe meter to 1200 today. 1050 is standard every day stuff.

I have a similar setup, vertical 14' double wall stove pipe to class A.

Wow that is amazing I never hit those temps or needed to before but now with the oak good lord the stove acts like its on nitrous lol

Pete

Pete I run hardwoods all the time and those in my opinion are normal temps.. I have a surface thermometer so my internal temps would be roughly double what the surface temps are.. Better hot than cool when it comes to flue temps and I do get long burn times.. I would rather use a little more wood than worry about creosote buildup in my liner..

Ray
 
An occasional foray to 1000F on startup can happen, especially with a large load of fuel that hasn't had the air turned down soon enough. That happened to me this morning. Normally, on startup I try to catch it around 7-800F and start closing down the air to maybe half at that point depending on the wood. This morning I got distracted and let it go a bit longer. But these high temps shouldn't be for an extended period of time. 1000F is above the continuous rating for the connector pipe. And it would be a big waste of heat.
 
I had the chimney down as well yesterday morning and it was absolutely spotless I am amazed by that Ray! Never with any stove has it been this clean its like a creosote fairy came and gobbled up all the creosote lol.

Pete
 
BeGreen said:
An occasional foray to 1000F on startup can happen, especially with a large load of fuel that hasn't had the air turned down soon enough. That happened to me this morning. Normally, on startup I try to catch it around 7-800F and start closing down the air to maybe half at that point depending on the wood. This morning I got distracted and let it go a bit longer. But these high temps shouldn't be for an extended period of time. 1000F is above the continuous rating for the connector pipe. And it would be a big waste of heat.

Personally I don't feel safe at those temps because my pipe starts to really get a burn smell from the hot metal and it is down right scary to smell. It isn't the paint but hot metal! Besides this stove burns insanely clean when it is using the afterburner it looks like radiant heat for hours and hours without smoke from the chimney.

Thanks too all you guys for the help the oak is defiantly better but a whole new learning curve again.

Pete
 
Agreed, there's a big difference between a short run up to 1000F and continuous operation. I would not regularly run a stove that usually produced those temps in the connector above the stove. It's above the rating for the pipe and a huge waste of heat.
 
Pete1983 said:
I had the chimney down as well yesterday morning and it was absolutely spotless I am amazed by that Ray! Never with any stove has it been this clean its like a creosote fairy came and gobbled up all the creosote lol.

Pete

I see nothing glowing at those temps Pete so I do not feel anything is wrong.. I do not sustain 1000 degree temps they are short lived.. I think my liner should look much better this year..

Ray
 
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