Well I posted not to long ago about me getting my free woodstove. Well my buddy finally produced it. Unfortunatly it turns out it is a vogelzang boxwood. It is however brand new and never been fired. Guy ended up not heating his garage and just wanted to get rid of it! Well I am planning on using the stove, Please, I know all about the hate on the stove ect so please dont bash my use of the stove. My questions is, and I am hoping someone like fossil ect can chime in, vogelzangs website says the stove needs 36 inches clearance around the stove and a hearth pad between the stove and a plywood floor. My plan is, like in my first post, is to frame out a elevated heart pad out of metal studs covered in 2 to 3 layers of durarock board. I am planning on doing the same to the wall behind the stove, leaving the hearth and the wall connected for cooling purposes, then covering the whole thing in tile or some astetic. Doing the install this way, which is way more than the vog. website says, can I adjust my spacing from the wall to the stove to get the stove closer to the wall?????
Got my freebie
- Thread starter deerslayer
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If you cover the walls with a non combustable material that is spaced out from the wall, according to the NFPA211 I think you can cut your clearances from 36" to 18" safely. There are also ways to protect the wall that bring the space required down to 12" from 36" The Vogelzanger goes by the same specs as the older stoves, which means that old fashioned drawing you can find at any local building inspector or fire dept will apply. Do a search for clearance reduction on Hearth.com or the nfpa211 guidelines on google. That aint a "bad" stove, it's just not as good as the new ones. Be safe with the install, like you are. Get it inspected when your done and I would suggest NOT burning it when you are not home or if your sleeping.
Enjoy it, it's free. Maybe some day you'll be able to upgrade.
Enjoy it, it's free. Maybe some day you'll be able to upgrade.
You have to leave a 1" space between the original wall & the new wall you build in front of it. That 1" gap needs to be present on top, bottom & sides & behind of course.
I burn a similar stove in my fireplace. Mine is a 1936 Atlanta Stove Works #27 Box. I've had it installed for a year now. Your set up will work better than mine because it'll be a freestanding unit. We don't use it as a main source of heat. Only burning it when it gets really cold in the living room or throwing a few pieces of wood in it in the morning to help get the temps up quckly in the house. It can really crank out the heat and mine stays warm for about 9 hours after burning as few as 4-5 splits. Leave lots of ashes in the bottom to insulate the cast iron. I'd install a heat reclaimer on that thing and harvest some more heat out of it. Another statement that will be looked down upon by lots of people on this site!! Don't sweat it though, keep the chimney clean, burn it hot, be as safe as possible with it and it will serve its purpose. Here's a thread with some other box stove burner posts:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/49740/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/49740/
Before you do anything I'd call your local inspector and home owners insurance to see if it's even legal to install that non UL listed stove in your home.
Stove is not going in my home, just a small heat source for my work shop! 12x24 building with plywood floors.Todd said:
With the spacing around the new surround being one inch between the two, new and old, will the metal studs provide enough air movement? The have openings through out the studs from what I have seen. My thought was to leave the top of the new wall open, and the front of the hearth open for air movement. I have never even seen anything like this before, I have gotten the idea simply from reading on here. I have only ever seen brick hearths and bick or stone behind wood stoves. But this seems to be the best idea for my application.
My other issue is, I am planning on putting sheet insulation on my ceiling. It is 1" foam board. I am going to need to figure out a way to protect this insulation from the stove pipe as well as the ceiling
This is my original post before I actually aquired the stove just to keep everyone up to speed
"Hello from De. I have been enjoying reading through the forum the last few days. I grew up around wood stoves, alot of my family had them, my father still uses a woodstove for his only heat source for his home. I, have been without a home with a woodstove for many years, I do miss the heat, but I dont miss the mess ect that comes along with a woodstove in a home. I currently have a detached workshop, 12’X24’ it is 2x4 construction with 3/4” plywood floors. I have sheeted the inside walls with 1/4 plywood, no insultation in the walls, and I am getting ready to insulate the ceiling at its 8’ height with 1/2” foam insulation board from lowes in 4’X8’ sheets. I would really like to put a small woodstove in the shop, I know its not the best idea for heat since it will take a while to warm up the space, take up more room ect but I like the idea of having a woodstove out there. Kinda reminds me of working with my grandfather in his garage. Anyway….a friend of mine, is suppose to be getting me a “free” small woodstove from someone he know. This has been going on for a few weeks and I ahvent scene it yet! We have had a ton of snow lately so I am gonna give it another week or two and see if he produces it or not! If he cannot produce this stove I am gonna have to find one. I was thinking about getting one of the stoves from lowes but after reading on here it sounds like I should stay away from them. I dont need a very big stove since I am only heating 288sqft, can someone recommend a smaller woodstove, I am on a budget so price is a factor. I have been keeping an eye out on craigslist as well. I plan making a hearth on the floor using metal studs layered with 2-3 layers of backer board and then tile. Also planning on having to do similar to the wall to keep the heat transfer to a minimum to the outside wll. I am also figuring I should be able to go straight up with the stove pipe through the roof so I should be able to get a good draft, as well as keeping the cost down on the extra stove pipe from having to go through the wall. can some of you guys throw some suggestions my way?????? Thanks in advance!"
"Hello from De. I have been enjoying reading through the forum the last few days. I grew up around wood stoves, alot of my family had them, my father still uses a woodstove for his only heat source for his home. I, have been without a home with a woodstove for many years, I do miss the heat, but I dont miss the mess ect that comes along with a woodstove in a home. I currently have a detached workshop, 12’X24’ it is 2x4 construction with 3/4” plywood floors. I have sheeted the inside walls with 1/4 plywood, no insultation in the walls, and I am getting ready to insulate the ceiling at its 8’ height with 1/2” foam insulation board from lowes in 4’X8’ sheets. I would really like to put a small woodstove in the shop, I know its not the best idea for heat since it will take a while to warm up the space, take up more room ect but I like the idea of having a woodstove out there. Kinda reminds me of working with my grandfather in his garage. Anyway….a friend of mine, is suppose to be getting me a “free” small woodstove from someone he know. This has been going on for a few weeks and I ahvent scene it yet! We have had a ton of snow lately so I am gonna give it another week or two and see if he produces it or not! If he cannot produce this stove I am gonna have to find one. I was thinking about getting one of the stoves from lowes but after reading on here it sounds like I should stay away from them. I dont need a very big stove since I am only heating 288sqft, can someone recommend a smaller woodstove, I am on a budget so price is a factor. I have been keeping an eye out on craigslist as well. I plan making a hearth on the floor using metal studs layered with 2-3 layers of backer board and then tile. Also planning on having to do similar to the wall to keep the heat transfer to a minimum to the outside wll. I am also figuring I should be able to go straight up with the stove pipe through the roof so I should be able to get a good draft, as well as keeping the cost down on the extra stove pipe from having to go through the wall. can some of you guys throw some suggestions my way?????? Thanks in advance!"
Deerslayer,
My father has that stove in a small (12x16) log cabin, it throws some major heat when it's burning. and even with a pipe damper the stack temp is pretty high.
Keep that foam insulation away from the pipe. I'd get a listed chimney kit for going through the ceiling and roof.
His stove leaks air ever where. I think I would try to seal it up some with refractory cement if I was going to burn it often.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Garett
My father has that stove in a small (12x16) log cabin, it throws some major heat when it's burning. and even with a pipe damper the stack temp is pretty high.
Keep that foam insulation away from the pipe. I'd get a listed chimney kit for going through the ceiling and roof.
His stove leaks air ever where. I think I would try to seal it up some with refractory cement if I was going to burn it often.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Garett
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