Hampton H200 wood stove install?

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pcampbell

Member
Jan 3, 2008
120
Vermont
I'm trying to calculate the total depth of my 2nd story soffit. If I install H205 parallel with wall (no corner) in front of standard drywall with double wall connectors, what will my soffit dimensions need to be when it passes through the second floor?

I see the back of the stove has to be 10" away from the wall. The pipe is 6" diameter (or is it more for double wall?). How much room between pipe and outer soffit drywall once we transition to second floor through ceiling box ?
 
Your double wall connector pipe is used from the stove to the ceiling support box.
You must install Class A chimney from the ceiling support box to the cap.
The soffit needs to be 2" from the Class A. That Class A needs to be framed in on
ALL sides if that second story is living space, & the 2" MINIMUM clearance must be maintained.
 
Double wall is about an inch larger than single wall so figure about 7 inches total for 6 inch. When you get to the ceiling you do not use a ceiling box, you start your chimney instead. The chimney support is located at the ceiling and holds up the chimney all the way through the roof. If there is a second story you also need to protect the area where the chimney penetrates the second floor ceiling. Since chimney is a manufactured product you need to follow their directions for the chimney to be considered as meeting UL standards. Sometimes local regulations will add requirements to those minimum requirements of meeting the UL listing. Where the chimney goes from the first floor ceiling to the second floor ceiling you will be building a box around it, called a chase. The chase must satisfy the chimney manufacturer's requirements too in terms of clearances and such. Unless you are running the chimney outside, I have no idea why you are asking about a soffit. If you do run it outside you again need to observe all of the chimney manufacturer's requirements and that will include the clearance required as you penetrate the soffit and the roof. It will also require a thimble to take the pipe through the outside wall and support on the outside for the part of the chimney that runs up beside the outside wall.
 
Can you post some pictures for the route the chimney will take? A simple sketch or two would also be helpful, just in case there is a condition we have not discussed. For example, there will need to be a firestop as the pipe passes thru the attic and an attic insulation shield.
 
Thanks for the replies. I've since picked up an HS205 at dealer cost - not realizing it was a 2009 model but it's unused. Should be decent I think.

What I meant by soffit is the chase on the 2nd story. It's going (hopefully) straight from from floor 1 to floor 2 to attic through roof. Insulation is on the floor of the attic (cold roof).

The chase will be fully enclosed per code requirements.

My concern is how far out (protruding into bedroom #2) I need to get my builder to build the chase. I need to provide dimensions to them in advance and I want it as small as possible because it's eating up floor space. I'm concerned it'll create an awkward wall in front of door (see pic for Floor 2).

Hampton h200 clearances are listed here:

http://www.regency-fire.com/Files/Specifications/H-H200.aspx

FWIW, I'm not installing myself, my main concern is getting the correct clearance dimensions to builder for framing out the chase.
 

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You need to pick the chimney that will determine the size needed for the chase. Usually for class a you need 12" inside
 
Be careful about planning things too tight. You will need to miss the second floor's floor joists and the second floor ceiling joists or trusses by a full 2 inches. Unless you get very lucky they will not be directly above each other so you may need more room just to miss both. I had 2 different roof lines to miss because my L shaped building had different roofs on the main part and on the L. The roof for the L was supported by the main roof so I had to miss in trusses in both directions at right angles to each other. That did make the chimney install more interesting even in my single story ranch because the stove just would not work if I set it directly below the place I could miss both sets. That meant my flue connector had to have a couple of 45s in it to jog over to a good spot for me to penetrate the attic space.
 
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