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Harman Advance Igniter

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Rick5472, Jan 18, 2012.

  1. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    I have a Harman Advance ignition problem apparently. I cleaned my stove this past weekend and lit it off automatically with no problem. Yesterday the unit ran out of fuel and when it was reloaded started back up as usual but this time the pellets did not ignite. I cleaned the pellets out the burn pot and ran it through the ignition cycle again. It never ignited. I understand after 4 cycles the unit is supposed to give a blink code on the control panel. I couldn't wait that long. The igniter LED on the control panel lit up each time I tried it. I am suspecting the ignititor assemble is bad? As I mentioned previously, it worked just a few days ago and I didn't do anything to cause it to fail. I am wondering if the ignitor light on the control panel is supposed to go out on a failing ignitor? Is there a way to test the ignitor? Anyway, I ended up manually lighting the stove. I appreciate any info about the ignitor on this unit. Also, I have seen older posts about replacing it. I would take any info on where to get one and how to replace it. I have seen different part numbers around the web.

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  2. WOODNUT358

    WOODNUT358 Member

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    I just changed mine.They don't give you any warning.After running through the cycle,feel the burn pot near the igniter. If it's not warm as mine was cold,then it's gone.It's a pretty easy replace.As far as the light goes,from what I learned,that just shows you that power is going to the igniter.You can start the stove manually with gel starter,or a butane torch.Flip the auto/manual switch to manual,and the stove/room temp to stove temp so the stove will not shut down.
  3. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    Thanks for the info Anthony. I used starting gel to manually start the stove last night. I like to keep it in room temp mode and it doesn't seem to shut down as the temp fluctuates enough. I have this number for the igniter assembly 1-10-06620. Where is a good place to get one online? I mean cheap.
  4. summit

    summit Minister of Fire

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    make sure the igniter is bad 1st... if you feel the pot getting warm at all, then it is still good. Make sure everything is closed shut and your firebacks/ burnpot cleanout/ fines box cleanout/ ashpan are sealed. Any extra air coming in will decrease the airflow past the igniter, and it will not light. Sometimes the air flapper ets stuck, and that can cause the stove to fail on ignition..... Harman igniters are typically a dealer only parts, and I'd call around.. usually @ 100 bucks or so.
  5. bill3rail

    bill3rail Minister of Fire

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    LI, NY
    Just curious, does Grainger carry replacement igniters? I saw something similar in their catalog, but I have no specs to compare it to.

    Bill
  6. WOODNUT358

    WOODNUT358 Member

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    It seems no matter where I looked,they run $99.00.I bought mine locally.I would try to find it locally,but if you can't,try to find on line with free shipping if possible.Good luck.Like I and another post suggested,make sure the pot is cold after running through the cycle.You want to make sure before dishing out $100.00.
  7. Andy P.

    Andy P. Member

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    you should be able to pull the two wires out the back, unhook them, and test the igniter with an ohm meter. i believe a good one should have 40 ohms of resistance, a bad one will show clean open
  8. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    I finally got around to removing and testing my igniter. As Andy mentioned it was open. I will be picking up the new igniter from the shop where I bought the stove today. I will post more info and hopefully pics as I progress. I am just getting around to getting 2 tons of OMalley's pellets in my back room. Getting prepped for the stove weather... :)
  9. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    Here are the pics of the new and old igniter. The new igniter was about 46 ohms. The old was open. Any ideas on how to remove the old igniter from the cage without breaking off the tabs? new_old.jpg
  10. Delta-T

    Delta-T Minister of Fire

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    pair of pliers, slightly untwist the tabs, they're pretty tough. though, you could be much stronger than me.
  11. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather Guest

    nah...easy....a pair of needle nosed pliers does the trick.....pay paticular attantion when you take the top place off though, as there is a right way and a wrong way to put it back on....put it on the wrong way and you may not get enough heat for ignition
  12. Harman Lover 007

    Harman Lover 007 Minister of Fire

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    Looks like you got the 15 fin igniter to replace the 13 fin they had so much trouble with. How old is your Advance?
  13. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    I have had the unit about 5 years. It was new when I bought it. Not sure of the manufacture date.
  14. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    Thanks for the info Delta-T and Lousyweather! I will get it installed this weekend hopefully...if I can remember how it went under the burn pot:)
  15. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather Guest

    like I said, just be wary of that top plate....make sure you put it on exactly like it was on! 10 ,imutes if you know what youre doing, 15 if you dont....im sure you'll get it
  16. Delta-T

    Delta-T Minister of Fire

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    ..hehe, I wasn't suggesting that the tabs were tough to turn, more that they are not fragile, and to not be all that concerned about breaking them, but it reads much funnier with your response.:)
  17. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    I guess you are talking about two things here? To make sure that the plate on the cage assembly is installed the same way as the original? and..to be sure the cage assembly is installed under the burn pot the same way it came out?

    I am not sure about the plate on the cage reasoning but I am for the cage being installed under the burn pot. I have the leads coming out of the unit on the right or more centered since the unit attaches over towards the left side underneath.
  18. Don2222

    Don2222 Minister of Fire

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    Attached Files:

  19. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather Guest

  20. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather Guest

    no, Im talking about the plate held in place by the two tabs ole Delta T was talking about........you actually CAN put it on incorrectly.........there was even a tech bulletin about it........
  21. Delta-T

    Delta-T Minister of Fire

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    I likes to call it a "suicide cord"....pigtail sounds a lot less dangerous/fun.
    The Ds likes this.
  22. AbetterChimneynm

    AbetterChimneynm Member

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    Another thing i have seen on some harmans is the intake air flapper gets stuck and will not allow the ignitor to ignite the pellets it will glow red and never kick off see it alot more at the start of the season from a stove that has sat for a while
    Delta-T likes this.
  23. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather Guest

    yep. would inhibit the airflow over the igniter.......test the igniter.....45-50 ohms resistance? its not the igniter..........open connection? bad igniter
  24. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    I see what you mean. The slots in the plate are off center as you can see in the attached photo. I will be sure to mark it accordingly so that when I reinstall it is the same. Thanks again for the tips!

    Attached Files:

  25. Rick5472

    Rick5472 Member

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    Finally got the igniter back in the stove. Getting ready to put the cable ties on the wires I had to remove to get the igniter wires out of the burn pot. I marked them with a Sharpie so I would know where they went when putting it back together. Now it seems I can push the wires in through the rubber grommet but they go in too far. I think there was a bit of RTV silicone in the wires when I pulled out the igniter. I am wondering if I should put some RTV on the wires passing through the grommet where I marked it or not worry about it. The wires will be zip tied back so they don't interfere with the feed chain. Any last thoughts? I could have lit the old girl off last night since it was in the 40's...;)

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