Harman P series combustion blower

[Nitro-Fish]

Has anyone tried a Fasco A172 (motor only) for use as a combustion motor replacement on the P series stoves? I have a friend that can get them for much less than the Harman replacement (OEM) combustion motors. I was thinking about having him pick one up, then comparing the overall size (again, motor only) to the original; rotation, shaft length, diameter etc. just to see if it will work I was just thinking it would be a decent replacement if it is the same; it would be a Fasco (also others use OEM part numbers of the same) and may last longer than the cheap Chinese replacements. I see the comments about the second fan not being needed on the combustion fan (found on the original), but I believe Harman started using the double fan to help with the heated environment in the original design. Thoughts?

 

[rickwai]

The new OEM only have 1 fan now. he rear fan is not there anymore. My comb motor is 16 yrs old right now. How long did your original last? I am going to use a OEM when it goes out. Maybe it will last another 16 yrs.

 

[SciGuy]

The new OEM only have 1 fan now. he rear fan is not there anymore. My comb motor is 16 yrs old right now. How long did your original last? I am going to use a OEM when it goes out. Maybe it will last another 16 yrs.

Rick is your OEM blower motor a Fasco? Harman is buying theirs from some one and not manufacturing them in house. If it's a Fasco then cutting out the middleman might not be the worst idea for a handy DIYer.

Hugh

 

[rickwai]

The new OEM motors are Avery Gleason

 

[Nitro-Fish]

The new OEM only have 1 fan now. he rear fan is not there anymore. My comb motor is 16 yrs old right now. How long did your original last? I am going to use a OEM when it goes out. Maybe it will last another 16 yrs.

Rickwai, I still have the original in both of the P61's, but I'm told I tend to overkill on the yearly cleaning, they have the double fan motors (Jakel). The new ones don't have the double fan motors, they say it isn't needed anymore, but heat is only good to warm people in the winter time, not our stove parts. I'm sure a bean counter decided it would save money to go without the dual fan model (after all, the stove manufacturers cant make money on parts if they never need replacing), and that is the reason for the change. I recently purchased a P68 that has the same combustion motor, but it's starting to make noise already (stove is only 10 years old); the owner had receipts for a new igniter (oem), a new auger motor & auger (aftermarket from pellethead), a new distribution blower (oem) and a new flame guide (oem) so its only safe to say, its next to go. This stove definitely didn't get the yearly attention that my 61's do, but I have it cleaned up and ready to go now, lubed the comb blower & quited it down after a thorough cleaning, but want to be prepared for the worst. I may be the guinea pig on this one if nobody else has tried the Fasco.
I do have another strange issue on this stove (no test mode), but I'll start another thread for it.

 

[rickwai]

Fasco makes good motors. I am interested as well . Keep us posted on what Fasco part number matches up

 

[Nitro-Fish]

I did something similar on one of my Englander PDVC's with a Fasco A082, I just used the motor, not the housing; same plan for the P68 & the A172, time will tell!

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Update: I didn't go the Fasco replacement route; I wound up replacing the bearings in the original Jakel motor. It is very easy to do (I did have to cut the fan blade off, but this would have been the case either way). I purchased a 10 pack of XiKe 608-ZZ Precision Bearings 8x22x7mm ($15) which are an exact fit, removed the motor & both cooling fans from each end of the motor (press fit), once the blades are off, you can split the motor & access the bearings. On mine only one was bad; the one closest to the stove, but I replaced them both which I would recommend anyway while in there. Reform the press fit of the cooling fans before reassembly (easily done with the correct size socket to press over the upturned edge). With the installation of the new bearings, the exhaust blower is as quiet as a church mouse!

 

[SciGuy]

Reform the press fit of the cooling fans before reassembly (easily done with the correct size socket to press over the upturned edge).

NF,

Thanks for the excellent information. I'm not following the "Reform the press fit of the cooling fans before reassembly " and ask that you might clarify your mean. Are you suggesting that the shaft is deformed where the original fan was installed? Do you know a temperature rating for the bearings. I don't see one listed on the Amazon page I referenced and am not knowledgeable enough about such things to judge if something special is needed.

Thanks for pioneering DIY work.

Hugh

 

[Nitro-Fish]

NF,

Thanks for the excellent information. I'm not following the "Reform the press fit of the cooling fans before reassembly " and ask that you might clarify your mean. Are you suggesting that the shaft is deformed where the original fan was installed? Do you know a temperature rating for the bearings. I don't see one listed on the Amazon page I referenced and am not knowledgeable enough about such things to judge if something special is needed.

Thanks for pioneering DIY work.

Hugh

Hugh, the originals actually had rubber dust covers, so I don't think heat is an issue, time will tell.

As far as the fans go, they are press fit and once the fans are removed from the shaft, they will not have the tight press fit for going back on; my fix for this was to support the fan with a socket (a bit larger than the shaft opening) on a flat surface (one side of fan is flat, the other has an upturned lip) with the lip on the fan facing up, then take a 12 point socket that is almost the exact size of the shaft opening place against the upturned lip and give a whack with a hammer to squeeze the opening back together so the press fit is once again obtainable (this will be clear once you see how the fan blade is configured), all you are trying to accomplish is to close the hole a bit to make it tight on the shaft when reassembled.

I now have enough bearings to do this on all of my Harman's if ever needed again, they are in the Pellet stove spare parts bin for future use. To me a few dollars for the fix (per motor) sure beats the replacement motor price, just make sure you catch it when they start making noise and before they have a chance to destroy the motor with any slop.

BTW, there is a small spring washer in one of the bearing cups (I believe it was the rear), be sure not to lose it during disassembly.

 

[SciGuy]

Hugh, the originals actually had rubber dust covers, so I don't think heat is an issue, time will tell.

As far as the fans go, they are press fit and once the fans are removed from the shaft, they will not have the tight press fit for going back on; my fix for this was to support the fan with a socket (a bit larger than the shaft opening) on a flat surface (one side of fan is flat, the other has an upturned lip) with the lip on the fan facing up, then take a 12 point socket that is almost the exact size of the shaft opening place against the upturned lip and give a whack with a hammer to squeeze the opening back together so the press fit is once again obtainable (this will be clear once you see how the fan blade is configured), all you are trying to accomplish is to close the hole a bit to make it tight on the shaft when reassembled.

I now have enough bearings to do this on all of my Harman's if ever needed again, they are in the Pellet stove spare parts bin for future use. To me a few dollars for the fix (per motor) sure beats the replacement motor price, just make sure you catch it when they start making noise and before they have a chance to destroy the motor with any slop.

BTW, there is a small spring washer in one of the bearing cups (I believe it was the rear), be sure not to lose it during disassembly.

Got it. I kept skipping over the word “cooling” and was wondering why you would need to reform a new combustion blower. We’re talking about the little plastic fan on the rear end of the motor. My brain is happier now

Thanks,

Hugh

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Hugh, they are actually stamped steel cooling blades, but yes; you're on the right track.