Harmon p68 distributor blower,feed motor & igniter do not work

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I talked to tech dept at Harman about the stove with muffler today(they changed that idea). If you have replaced the muffler or it is clean the issue may be the seal at the hopper funnel mouth OR the lid is not sealing tight. Check the silicone at the bottom of the hopper. Check the seal and gasket on the top of the hopper. Can try and add a bunch of weight to the hopper lid to check the lid issue. Make sure the latch is pulling down snug too.
 
Replaced the burnpot gasket all the lights came on like they are suppose to but now feed motor not working. Feed motor light is coming on however
 
That is the vacuum switch not closing the circuit not allowing the auger or ignition etc. Safety issue to prevent firing without proper venting. Light will come on ok because its sending power to circuit but the vac switch if not getting vacuum and closing the motor wont run.
 
We shut off and turned back on same problem as before and combustion motor does not shut off when we turn into off position.. My husband ready to throw out window
 
Picture of the hopper gasket that needs to be nice and soft to make a good seal. Picture of the hopper funnel that needs to have a good seal of silicone. The combustion motor fan cycle can, even if cold, last up to half hour. That's normal. Another issue with vacuum leak can be the hopper lid latch too.
 

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Should the burn pot gasket have 2 holes, one on each side of the big hole. A picture on a website dhow 2 but the one we bought only had a punch out of one
Stove part unlimited website showing one small hole on rah side
 
Someone else will have to chime in on burn pot issue as I have a PC45s that have a multifuel tray system. Try to get the stove to satisfy the vac switch first.
 
Heres what I have been using. About $4. Try and peel off what you can and clean well with alcohol before reapplying. Good luck
 

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Will try to help.Harman(and travis) are not good with giving out info,they want you to use a dealer.It appears you have one of those units that tried the hopper sensor,they did away with it,therefore their online manual only shows us the newer system.You should post your wiring diagram out of your manual,it should show both switches that you replaced.You said you"latched" the fines box cover,have only ever seen a wing nut on them,post a picture.Did you try test mode while jumpering the pressure switches,one at a time?Would tell you which one is the problem.It may be time for you to hire someone that does this for a living,as makes no sense to replace it just because you cannot figure it out,newer stoves,just like cars,are complex,not like old ones.
 
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Claudine, how did the stove come to be in this state? Based on your first post where you mention using Cubex pellets, I'm assuming you are the original owner of the stove and it once worked fine for you. Is that the case? Did it just start with this behavior suddenly while in heating season? Has it been off for a while, worked fine last you knew, and you are just trying to clean and test it by firing it up in the summer and that's how you stumbled on the problem?
 
We purchased from guy who used it 3 months. We tried several pellets but found cubex worked best. The end of last season we would get up and the stove would be off and we would have to reset. This happened more as we got to the end of the seasonseason
 
When you would wake up and find the stove had shut down, was there a red light blink pattern on the control panel? 5 blinks, 6 blinks, etc?
 
Thanks to all for all your advice it is great to know propel are always willing yo help. We put more weight on hopper lid after putting new gasket actually 30 lbs and it worked appears lid is bent not sure how that happened. Hope everyone has a wonderful weekend I will.
 
Thanks to all for all your advice it is great to know propel are always willing yo help. We put more weight on hopper lid after putting new gasket actually 30 lbs and it worked appears lid is bent not sure how that happened. Hope everyone has a wonderful weekend I will.
Glad that mystery was solved. Any idea how much a new lid is going to run? Or going to try and see if you can tweak it back and put on a extra thick foam gasket?
 
Anybody see any reason not to modify the vacuum to what's currently being used. Basically a hole that the vac hose is inserted into in the air intake? Will have to take a picture as I don't have one of what I am trying to relate in my picture library yet. Would sure be a lot cheaper and dependable too.
 
Anybody see any reason not to modify the vacuum to what's currently being used. Basically a hole that the vac hose is inserted into in the air intake? Will have to take a picture as I don't have one of what I am trying to relate in my picture library yet. Would sure be a lot cheaper and dependable too.
First,good job helping them figure it out.Second,I would do exactly that.I do not know if there is already a tap down there and hopper is t-ed in,or just hose to hopper.Also was this one of those stoves that could get fines in hinges and distort lid?Sometimes the old ways were better.Will have to look at the accentra I am rebuilding to see how hard to add a fitting.
 
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