has anyone recently installed a stovepipe through a closet?

I have a woodstove that vents straight up through the floor into a large walk in closed then straight up through the roof from there. I have had it unhooked (stovepipe gone) for a number of years and want to re-install the stovepipe. We always had double wall stovepipe going through the closet up through the roof. I am told now that current code requires boxing in the pipe with studs and drywall. I am very hesitant to wall in the stovepipe. Does anyone else have an installation like this?

Seems to me I've seen someone here that even posted pics of their chimney going through a closet . . . have you tried a search using the term "closet"?

It has to be class A pipe to do this, is it?

I have to get all new pipe so I can really get whatever I need but I just don't like the idea of boxing it in - seems to me that drywall would be too close. From what I have read the clearance only needs to be 2 " if it is double wall pipe. Plus - I don't have all that much room in the closet to allow much more than that.
I really liked having it open before when I had it hooked up because I could keep the closet open and get a little warmth even though the stove pipe was barely warm to the touch.

Well regular double wall pipe wont work but class A pipe will, my chimney pipe is boxed in (not a closet) and no problems what so ever, I just followed the manufactors specs.

Should be boxed in with 2" clearance to combustables (class A insulated). If you don't box it in - what is to prevent someone stacking boxes, shoes or cloths right up against the pipe?

Sure in normal operation it's just warm to the touch, but in the event of a chimney fire ??

If code allows you could leave a opening (covered with a grate) on the top and bottom of the boxed in section to allow some air flow.

As noted, there must be a 2" clearance around the pipe. When I was representing a chimney manuf I got a call from a lady with a chimney problem. The system was as you describe, up thru a 2nd story closet. I found the source of the problem but in inspecting the system, found that she had clothes pushed right against stack. They were burned but had not combusted. She was lucky and threw a fit. She wanted new clothes Box it in.

I get your point - even if I don't stack things against it - something could fall against it. Is there a special kind of drywall that should be used that is less flammable? It just seems that drywall is so, well, dry and would be subject to catching fire. I am sorry if this is sounding stupid - but I live in a log home with almost no drywall anywhere and where I do have it (in a few closets) it just seems like if I boxed in something warm - the drywall would eventually become brittle and combustible.

If its in a closet why not use something else if you do not want the drywall.

Any suggestions? I also guess I need to find out if the code in my state (ohio) requires drywall or just enclosing.

I used some heavy duty paneling, plywood with the one nice side, up to you for the look you want but since its in a closet that may not be a big deal.

Yes pen is right, not sure why you think drywall is not a good choice.

Thanks to all for the information. Since it is in a closet and I don't truly care about how it looks I guess I do have a lot of options of what I could use (as long as the building code doesn't restrict me).

Only because of a heat source a few inches away from it. I don't know why - but that just seems like it would be a problem - but I guess from all your comments it is nothing to be concerned about.

Combustibles are combustibles . . . and clearances are clearances . . . just be sure to make the clearances . . . and box it in for the aforementioned reasons.

As far as drywall . . . seeing as sheetrock is often used as a fire barrier . . . I think it would be pretty safe. If you were really, really concerned you could always go with Durock or another type of cement board which has no paper backing . . . not very pretty to look at though without any tile or stone on it.

My setup is the same as yours. Mine is closed in with regular walls and a door just like a closet within a closet. During burning season I usually leave the door open an inch or two to let the heat out

That is a good idea - so somehow hinge one wall so that it could be opened both for access to the pipe if needed and to allow heat out.