Have you tried Taking a lighter or something and putting it near the intake vents to see how hard they are sucking? seems if you can keep a fire with the door cracked then Not with the door closed youre not getting enough air thru your intake vents.. Maybe something in there blocking it?? this could be another test for the open window (tight house) check...
Help please, before i freeze to death
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jatoxico
Minister of Fire
I believe this is the manual for the stove.
http://www.ghpgroupinc.com/manuals/fireplace/WS_SMA(EN,FR,SP)_2014.pdf
One thing I just thought of is to make sure the baffles are installed correctly and didn't get shifted or knocked out of place during install or loading of wood. It happens and can really screw up the draft.
http://www.ghpgroupinc.com/manuals/fireplace/WS_SMA(EN,FR,SP)_2014.pdf
One thing I just thought of is to make sure the baffles are installed correctly and didn't get shifted or knocked out of place during install or loading of wood. It happens and can really screw up the draft.
electrathon
Minister of Fire
Reading the manual I found this:
IMPORTANT! Install baffle bricks and baffle
insulation before installing stove pipe on stove.
1. Place one baffle brick on each side of the tube running
horizontal into the baffle, covering the openings into
the firebox. To install bricks, place them through the
flue pipe outlet, down on top of openings, making sure
to close off openings completely.
2. Place insulation through flue pipe opening after bricks
are in place, covering the top of the bricks all the way
across from side to side of stove.
3. Installation of these items are central to the operation
of stove during burning.
IMPORTANT! Install baffle bricks and baffle
insulation before installing stove pipe on stove.
1. Place one baffle brick on each side of the tube running
horizontal into the baffle, covering the openings into
the firebox. To install bricks, place them through the
flue pipe outlet, down on top of openings, making sure
to close off openings completely.
2. Place insulation through flue pipe opening after bricks
are in place, covering the top of the bricks all the way
across from side to side of stove.
3. Installation of these items are central to the operation
of stove during burning.
Have you tried Taking a lighter or something and putting it near the intake vents to see how hard they are sucking
Seems the air inlet is accessed from behind and underneath (I assume where you hook the outside air intake if used.) I will try to get in there and check it, but its no much room to "see"
as for the bricks and baffle, yes theyre installed correctly. I personally installed every brick. I even remember first seeing the white insulation as I was covering the bricks thinking I can't believe this is supposed to go into a stove.
Let me ask you guys a question... would not "Lincoln logging" the wood have any negative effect on efficiency? Due to the shallowness of my box, I have to always lay the logs the same way.
Seems the air inlet is accessed from behind and underneath (I assume where you hook the outside air intake if used.) I will try to get in there and check it, but its no much room to "see"
as for the bricks and baffle, yes theyre installed correctly. I personally installed every brick. I even remember first seeing the white insulation as I was covering the bricks thinking I can't believe this is supposed to go into a stove.
Let me ask you guys a question... would not "Lincoln logging" the wood have any negative effect on efficiency? Due to the shallowness of my box, I have to always lay the logs the same way.
matt1@
Burning Hunk
Do you have an air compressor? I think if i was in your shoes i would look inside the stove and locate where the primary air enters the firebox. Many stoves have a small box (doghouse) inside just below the door glass. Try blowing compressed air into that opening while operating the air control lever. You should notice a difference and this will also make sure the pathway is free for air to enter the stove. As others have said it sounds like the primary air passage may be blocked
thats a great idea! I did clean out the box and remove the bricks, but I couldn't find any inlet anywhere, I saw the column at the back going up and just figured that the air was coming from the top not the bottom. I can try and look again once it cools down. Thanks for the suggestion
matt1@
Burning Hunk
Yes i agree if the air supply is free than draft is most likely weak due to height and somewhat warm outside temps
We get many posts like this with first time installs of EPA stoves. Then magically the stove starts running better when the temps outside get into the 30s. Unfortunately that doesn't nothing for the clearance issues or anemic hearth pad.
You reckon I got the point yet? whats that the 3rd time youve said that? I got it man, I'll start working on the areas you can't seem to get over, but in the mean time can we please move on?
Sorry, but safety takes precedence over getting the stove to burn hotter. The hotter the stove gets the more safety becomes issue #1.
What is the plan to fix the clearance issues and hearth pad?
What is the plan to fix the clearance issues and hearth pad?
The stove needs to be on an approx. 40" x 48" hearth pad. This can be DIY to save some bucks. How far is the stove from the wall?
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
After looking over your pics again, I would add another 3ft length of class with a roof support bracket bringing the total height to 16ft.
I added a length of pipe to my stove setup and immediately noticed a difference for the better, The chimney is engine that drives the stove.
I added a length of pipe to my stove setup and immediately noticed a difference for the better, The chimney is engine that drives the stove.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Yes. Definitely stack the wood "airy". Especially with the warmer temps (low draft conditions) and cold during starts. I crib my wood all the time. Even in a hot stove, airflow around the wood helps a great deal.
BTW If you highlight the text you want to quote, a reply button will appear and you'll save some time. +1 on upgrading to meet stove and flue pipe clearances.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Your going to need to use double wall pipe. Add a couple 45s to get it away from the wall. Here is the requirements.
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After looking over your pics again, I would add another 3ft length of class with a roof support bracket bringing the total height to 16ft.
I added a length of pipe to my stove setup and immediately noticed a difference for the better, The chimney is engine that drives the stove.
We tried this yesterday. Absolutely no difference from 15' to 18'
I added a length of pipe to my stove setup and immediately noticed a difference for the better, The chimney is engine that drives the stove.
We tried this yesterday. Absolutely no difference from 15' to 18'
awesome trick!
ok thank you, now back to the issue at hand...
I cut some wood smaller and that seems to be doing a lot. Stove is up to 350, fire is blazing, secondaries are firing... now lets see what happens when I add fuel.
to be continued.
Add up the lengths again. It sounded like the change was more like going from 13' to 16'. Of course if the wood is somewhat damp inside then added chimney will not help a lot.
6' of 6" single wall stove pipe to the ceiling
7' of 6" doule wall stove pipe from the ceiling through the roof
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Oy, that is very close. The wall behind that pipe will be extremely hot when that stove is burning well for hours. The best solution is to change the stove pipe to double-wall stove pipe. It only requires 6" clearance. That will also improve draft a little. Another option is to install pipe shields on the pipe. These need to go right up to the the chimney support. This also will reduce clearance to 6".
http://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Group-BM0133-Adjustable-Shield/dp/B000DZQR3Q
Or the entire back wall could get a proper NFPA 211 wall shielding. This needs to be ventilated in the rear with a 1" gap to the wall. A hearthpad directly attached to the wall is not recognized protection.
The stove clearance is more of a problem, especially from an insurance standpoint because the stove manual doesn't list the option to use a wall shield. The minimum clearance is 12" with single wall pipe, 11" with double-wall. One option is to put an offset made of two 45 deg. elbows to bring the stove out from the wall to make it legal. I would do this high up to kick the stove pipe away from the wall as quickly as possible. The pipe, if it remains single-wall, will still need shielding at top for the elbow.
PS: If you bring the stove to proper clearance then the black wall pad is not helping anything. Actually it isn't doing much even now. If the stove is moved to the proper clearance you might be able to turn it and the current hearth pad sideways to make full coverage between the two pads. What size are they?
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jatoxico
Minister of Fire
This may turn out to be more of a wood and loading/operation issue but you never know when that last 1' will make the difference. Lot's of folks post how they had a night and day difference after going just a little more. If you can swing it I would add another section even though your test didn't show much of a difference. In the end it will most likely perform better more often. You're on the edge.
* If you add 45's you'll be extending the flue length some.
Experience calls from the stove, but I get your point. Cold weather and drier wood will make quite a difference if draft is just on the cusp.
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