I have a couple pictures can get more when i get home if need me to. Its 8inch out of stove.Pictures would give us an idea of what stove you're working with. And its connection.
Try it with flue damper open. Close intake dampers down to a crack if needed to slow the fire.
Many people rationalize closing the pipe damper "holds heat in the stove". It doesn't. If you take temp readings before and after damper, you will see the same temp. It slows velocity of rising gasses, reducing draft of an over drafting chimney. If your stove is a double door, capable of being burned in Fireplace Mode with a screen in place, the pipe damper becomes your only control. It is there to slowly close until smoke starts to roll in at top during open door burning with screen in place. Open slightly for the correct draft that allows smoke out, retaining some heat. A single door stove does not require a pipe damper for open door burning, so they only need one in the case of an over drafting chimney. Keep it open with doors closed. Check temp at top, and IF much higher than 250, close it slightly to prevent too much heat loss. You can't close it much. Just slightly.
I'm still not sure if you have a 6 or 8 inch stove. That makes a difference if it can handle a baffle or not.
The stove should also be sized to the chimney, so a 6 inch outlet increased to 8 is part of your problem not getting enough heat into the chimney. If you have a 6 inch stove, use 6 inch pipe, line the chimney with an insulated liner, and baffle the stove.
The baffle must allow no smaller than the square inch area of stove outlet, pipe and chimney above it. (area smoke travels)
A baffle inside is advisable WITH a chimney that stays hot inside. Too much baffle retains too much heat in the firebox, not heating the chimney enough. The main advantage of a baffle is keeping the heat in the firebox, raising firebox temperatures allowing more smoke particles to be burned off in the box. It also adds resistance to flow inside firebox, requiring the flue damper if used to be open more. It will make the front of the stove hotter than the rear. Less smoke is less chance of particles sticking to flue walls forming creosote.
help with cresote build up with a moe all nighter new to all this
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I have a couple pictures can get more when i get home if need me to. Its 8inch out of stove.
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Is the clean out door and all block cores behind it sealed up well? Is the pipe sealed into the crock well? I also see some potential clearance issues both from the crock going through the wall and from the stove to the wood behind the stone veneer
So the chimney use to leak water when it would rain so im assuming that its not sealed all that great i dug around it put some good stone and tarred the outside that was in the ground since then no water but im assuming that it can pull air right there now that you say that and i do have some gaps in my pipe joints thats how it was set up when i bought the place should i get new pipes and fit the joints tightly? Like i said im new to all this
Yes, but Jumbo and Giant Moe are the only models with 8 inch outlet and take 24 inch logs.
Trying to figure out what he has since the log length and outlet size don't make sense. All the narrow stoves including Big Moe have 6. Tiny and Little Moe are the only ones that take shorter logs, also having 6.
Some have a heat extractor ring on the back for a water jacket around the outlet that will accept an 8 inch pipe, but the inside exhaust flue is 6 inch.
If he has a wide Fireplace model, that normally other makes have double doors, it would be fine with 8 all the way. (and possibly the reason it has a damper there) Otherwise most All-Nighters won't have a large enough outlet to heat a 64 square inch flue very far vertically.
See the pics, that stove will work. It takes larger than 18 inch logs.
Any leaks you have will allow air INTO the chimney cooling it. Open or leaky clean out doors, mortar at pipe joint into chimney...... 3 screws at each pipe joint should seal the joints. Here's the basics of what makes a stove work, then you can usually figure out the cause;
Rising exhaust gasses lighter than air rise up the chimney. This creates a low pressure area in the chimney, pipe and stove.This low pressure area allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH into the stove intakes, feeding the fire oxygen.
The lowest pressure is measured at the stove collar, called draft. The greater the temperature differential inside and outside the chimney, the stronger the draft. So as it gets colder outside, it will naturally draft harder burning hotter. Atmospheric pressure changes constantly, low pressure areas moving over have less "push" into the stove, so it will be sluggish. Warm days with sun heating the chimney can stall draft since the temp differential isn't as much. This all determines the settings of air and damper use. The chimney is the engine that drives the stove. Elbows, pipe, damper (variable resistance), chimney cap and screen all decrease draft that the chimney creates. A baffle inside adds internal resistance in firebox. The air intakes are the most resistance in the system.
Any leaks you have will allow air INTO the chimney cooling it. Open or leaky clean out doors, mortar at pipe joint into chimney...... 3 screws at each pipe joint should seal the joints. Here's the basics of what makes a stove work, then you can usually figure out the cause;
Rising exhaust gasses lighter than air rise up the chimney. This creates a low pressure area in the chimney, pipe and stove.This low pressure area allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH into the stove intakes, feeding the fire oxygen.
The lowest pressure is measured at the stove collar, called draft. The greater the temperature differential inside and outside the chimney, the stronger the draft. So as it gets colder outside, it will naturally draft harder burning hotter. Atmospheric pressure changes constantly, low pressure areas moving over have less "push" into the stove, so it will be sluggish. Warm days with sun heating the chimney can stall draft since the temp differential isn't as much. This all determines the settings of air and damper use. The chimney is the engine that drives the stove. Elbows, pipe, damper (variable resistance), chimney cap and screen all decrease draft that the chimney creates. A baffle inside adds internal resistance in firebox. The air intakes are the most resistance in the system.
I have another question how do i get the glaze creosote out of my chimney is there a way for me to do it or do i have to hire a chimney sweep to do so?
Lightening up the images and magnifying them, it looks like the stove pipe is not sealed into the crock and there is a lot of dark ooze coming out of the bottom of the cleanout door. That is also likely not sealing tightly. The deep thimble also is not helping due to the long horizontal run.
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