How can I hook up this pipe to this insert? Pictures

[yooperdave]

http://www.chimney-liner-central.com/chimney_components.html

there may be somthing on this site to give you an idea of what you may need...looks like the cast iron boot would be the ticket.
sounds like you came across some leftover supplies that you're trying to make work. not a good idea if you only have 12 feet of liner. it needs to go to the top. just think of the problems you are going to incur when it is time to clean the chimney/liner. how would you do that if your liner doesn't go to the top of the chimney? i think you can get it hooked up, but will probably be "upgrading" (fixing it) within a short amount of time is there a stove store somewhere around you that maybe you can pick their minds for ideas or supplies????

remember- you can't make honey out of horse-sit! please, do it safely and correctly!

 

[mecreature]

I say get it running and see how it does. You already have the liner..

does it have a fan in it? if it does it might need some attention.

 

[littlesmokey]

I'm with the original poster, you guys did start out not a little rude, but a whole lot. "Get rid of that piece of crap" answers don't help anyone, even the poster. I think the consensus is, you are trying to invest in a project that will spend your money and not help your situation. Some came to their senses after their morning coffee and explained their answers, if you didn't, well,,,,

You should be able to find a decent used insert for a reasonable price, maybe less than it would cost to fit your stove in place. The last week has seen a huge increase in stoves for sale in my area (Intermountain States) with prices all over the place. I haven't seen this many stoves on the market in four or five years. Some very good stoves are cheap with the cheapies and some pieces of junk are out of sight. I called one guy on his scrap iron stove and offered him $30. He was a little offended and said, "You must not be able to read, I'm asking $3,200." I replied he must not be able to see without his rose colored glasses.

Point here is, look around the site, check out threads about inserts and what stoves to NOT buy and then ask away.

I bought an insert last year for $50. cleaned and repaired a few problems, gave it to an older couple who got it installed (community service project) and are heating away. Their prior 55* home is a distant memory and their heating bill is still less at 74* they enjoy this year.

 

[Red5]

Getting very close to the F it stage and sealing off this chimney. Lat year I paid a couple thousand dollars to have a system installed on the top of my chimney that has a cord. When I pull this cord it closes off the chimney. Running a pipe out the top of this would require me to get rid of this expensive attachment. I don't want to do this.

So are you saying that this pipe at 12 foot hooked to this insert is Worse than building a fire with bnothing there and having it suck all of the heat out of the house?

What is the cheapest I can find a complete insert kit with proper tubing and insert?

 

[OhioBurner©]

+1 to littlesmokey

I didnt even read one reply but as soon as I saw the pictures I knew I was about to witness a virtual beating.

Its like having a 'beater' car. Some folks would never dream of having a beater, or be caught dead in one. The beater may guzzle gas, cost lots of maintenance, etc etc. But when you can't even afford the cost of a shiny new piece, well you dont have a whole lot of choice, even if in the long run the beater costs you more. I know lots of folks who have old stoves, fishers, VC's, inserts w/o liners etc and they all work fine, folks are happy with thier heat output, wood consumption, etc etc. Sure there will always be a better unit out there, more efficient, nicer looking, whatever. As a matter of fact besides '1' stove, I know of no one that has an epa stove. Everyone I know that burns wood uses older pre-epa stoves (and inserts) except 1. My BIL wanted to give me an old insert sitting in his garage, maybe from the 70's? He was rather offended and couldnt understand why I shelled out over $2k for a new one when I could have had his for free. And to be honest it was a large part due to looks. I think my new one looks great and runs great, but I dont consider it all that great of a heater to be honest, and my old pre epa stoves just blasts it away with heat output, but it is much larger and freestanding.

I can't offer much advice though, wish I was more of an expert but can;t say that I am. But I can say that in your situation, your going to have a bit of a struggle to accomplish what you hope. It is an old unit, no way to deny it, and not designed for a liner. Its designed to just be sealed up to the fireplace, which as far as I am aware, is against code to do (although I do know multiple folks personally who have inserts exhausting directly with no liner hooked up). In some areas you may be able to run a partial liner (unlike the previous responder who said all liners always go to the top - false) but even if your area codes and insurance company would allow such a configuration realize it is still less than ideal, still wont draft as good as a full liner, and makes it a pita to clean. Then there is the question of the liner size, and if 6" will even work well. For a 'block off plate' do a search for that term here on the forum there are tons of threads about them(I had one a little while back) but the problem is each one is unique and you have to improvise if yours is a bit different.

Do you have a free source of wood? I mean are you going to cut it yourself or pay for it delivered to you? If your trying to save money, sometimes wood does not - something else to realize. What other source of heat do you have (oil? propane?) sorry if I missed you saying this already. The main issue with trying to save money by burning wood is that to get a nice efficient unit setup properly is a big investment. But if your burning oil or propane it will for sure save you money in the long run. For example spending $3000 or more on a new stove might seem like a lot of fuel, but I'd spend that much in one winter alone. Now if you have an efficient natural gas furnace and you have to pay for wood, your really not going to save much.

 

[Tansao]

Check your area craigslist for inserts. There may be some there for a bargain. My wife was telling me she was at a customer's house and they had recently installed an insert to the tune of $4k, only to find they had a severe wood allergy. They sold the insert for $500.

The flex liner is not going to be cheap, but it does need to go all the way up. My 30' liner, cap, and flue connector was $799 as a kit. I saved the install costs by doing it myself.

 

[PapaDave]

Red5,
I know this is frustrating. Maybe you need to take a step back and rethink what needs to be done by taking most of our comments and using them to your best advantage.
Think long term. Where did this insert come from? Can you get any info on how well it burned? How much wood will it consume?
What did you pay for it (none of my business, but for your own thought process)?
Perhaps you might consider saving some money every paycheck, then purchasing a new stove later this year. Sell this unit to recoup your outlay, which can be applied to the new one.
Whatever course you take, start getting wood NOW. Get it cut, SPLIT, and stacked, so it can DRY.
I'm seriously doubting that unit will run well with just a 6" liner/flue. Just look at the area/size of the opening on the top of the unit. Going down to 6" is undersizing your exhaust. 8" MAY work, but is still probably undersized.
If you decide to wait, come back when you get things going again. Despite the crusty crabs on here (myself included sometimes), we're all trying to help.
I got advice to dump my old stove when I asked about repairing it.
Consider putting a free standing stove on/in the hearth. You've got an awesome looking setup, and that would look great and give lots of heat.
Do a search for free standing stove installs. Lots of those.

 

[WoodpileOCD]

Man... tough crowd. You guys are borderline rude. Glad I have thick skin.

I'd love to buy a new high efficiency model but the wife just headed south and I'm in this large house looking at ways to lower my utility bills. Perhaps burning wood is not the answer. But if it is I'd like ideas on how to make this unit work. The pictures make it look bad but when it is in place it looks pretty good.

If this thing isn't going to work then I will take wood planks and seal up the entire fireplace. Shame to do this as I have such a large nice creekwall fireplace but right now it's all about money.

So what do i need to make this thing work?

Here is what I've been told. I need to take this flex pipe and run it up the chimney. It reaches above the point where the chimnet goes from being a large area and into a smaller squared area.. Told I need to design a cap at that point. Then I need to seal off this tube where it goes through the flew area. (Still trying to figure out how I'm going to do this). Then told I need to get this part and attach the insert directly to this tube.

So if you can help me get this job done I would appraciate it. If you want to hurl insults my way please keep them to yourself. When I post on forums I try and spread the knowledge and love. If there is anything I can help a fellow person out with then I go out of my way and try very hard to do this.

This is an area that I don't know very much about. And I am reaching out to you for help in figuring out how to make this work.

Well said Red5. Haven't been here that long but have found "most" everyone to be very helpful in intention if not always in words. I understand about the money but there are some very valid points about the amount of wood you will use but that's a matter of labor not money if you have the time.

Regards the part of your question about the seal in the flu area. Its called a 'block off plate' and here is a link to a great piece on them and why they are needed (I need one too) and a link in the article on how to make one if you are at all handy which it appears you are.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Why_damper_seal_is_needed/

Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[offroadaudio]

You have the stove - use it for a year with a safe installation and see what's what.
Safe installation is in order safest to just enough:

1. liner extends all the way from insert to top of chimney and is fully insulated with blanket insulation
notes on this: you should have 8" as has been mentioned, but many people have run 8" appliances on 6" pipes - could work just fine depends on the appliance, height of chimney and dryness of wood

2. liner extends all the way from insert to top of chimney - no insulation
3. liner goes just past the smoke shelf up to the first terracotta tile, known as a slam install
notes: does the chimney have terracotta liner? also this type of install is difficult to clean, because you have to move the stove to do it

Each of these should be cleared with your insurance company and all clearances and other manufacture warnings followed to the letter.

That being said, I would get the boot and adapter, get additional insulated rigid pipe to make it to the top, insulate the flex part and see what kind of heat you can get out of that thing. You might be very pleased. No one bothered to ask if you wanted it for 24/7 exclusive heat before telling you it's worthless. If you find out that it doesn't meet your needs, you buy a new modern efficient stove and put it in easily, because you will already have a full length liner - hopefully insulated.

Let us know how it works out

 

[FireAnt]

I was wondering if you could find a cheaper freestanding stove and hearth-mount it. I hearth-mounted a stove in my fireplace and it works great. I went to Chimney liner depot for the liner. I don't know how tall your chimney is. Mine is 15' and I got the liner, insulation and cap for $525. My NC-13 was $689. Good luck with whatever you do!

Anthony