How is the Timberline sharpener holding up?

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Prof

Minister of Fire
Oct 18, 2011
717
Western PA
I am close to buying a timberline sharpener, but figured I'd check in to see if people are still happy with them? How does the carbide hold up? Any guidance is appreciated.
 
I REALLY want one of these. I am very close to buying one also. I can't hand file for anything, and I am paying like $6 a chain to get it sharpened at my Stihl dealer. It would pay for itself over time, just having trouble pulling the trigger.

I read every post over at arborist site (which was LONG) and overall it seemed everyone loved it!
 
I REALLY want one of these. I am very close to buying one also. I can't hand file for anything, and I am paying like $6 a chain to get it sharpened at my Stihl dealer. It would pay for itself over time, just having trouble pulling the trigger.

I read every post over at arborist site (which was LONG) and overall it seemed everyone loved it!
Get one. There, now you've been told :p
 
Now that I have the hang of using it, my saw is always sharp. I've noticed that a few teeth don't sharpen as much as others. This indicates a flaw in the saw's teeth, not the sharpener as the pawl (the part of the sharpening tool that holds the carbide against the saw tooth being sharpeded) is adjusted to the proper cut on the first tooth. This is to be expected for me as I bought my saw used, and I am most likely correcting a few years worth of improper sharpening.
 
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I have only use mine about every 3rd to 4th sharpening on my chains. To keep the cutters the same length and the angle the same... Helps keep the chain cutting straight and true (and sharp as #ELL).

I have gotten much better with my hand file technique. A yr ago, I sucked with a hand file. But after lots of reading amd several different videos. I have gotten to the point where I may sell my Timberline one day. The hand file is much quicker. IMO........

My ultimate goal is to get a Good Oregon Grinder. But until then, the Timberline is the "Cats Meow". ;)
 
Just curious Dexter, what makes you want the Oregon sharpener if you have the Timberline already? What advantages do the Oregon give over the Timberline? I don't really know much about sharpeners yet...
 
Just curious Dexter, what makes you want the Oregon sharpener if you have the Timberline already? What advantages do the Oregon give over the Timberline? I don't really know much about sharpeners yet...

If I only had 1 saw and 2 chains (or so). The Timberline is perfect....

But having about a half dozen saws with different size bars for almost all of them and a few chains for each, makes the Timberline a little bit of a PITA to do multiple chains. Only because you have to take off the chain you just sharpened, then put another on that bar, then set it up, sharpen, and repaeat. Then you have to put on your bigger bar and do the bigger chains...

Thats why I only use it every so often now. Just to keep with the factory angles. I also bought the 25° and 35° blocks for it... Never even used them.

With a Grinder, chains are done off the bar. Which means you can do 18", 20", 25", Etc without changing or swapping anything (all 3/8" pitch chains). So the advantage for me, is time saved. Although the Timberline does put an edge on thats hard to beat, a grinder can do a fine job also (when set-up right and with proper technique).

The more chains you have, the quicker it is to do, off the saw...
 
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Ahh that makes perfect sense, OK that makes me feel better, as I only have one saw and two chains so it sounds like it is still the way to go for me.

Appreciate the insight!
 
I am close to buying a timberline sharpener, but figured I'd check in to see if people are still happy with them? How does the carbide hold up? Any guidance is appreciated.

I have been watching this thread to see if any poster would answer your question. I too am wondering how long the carbide cutter will last in the hands of people who use their saws mostly for firewood cutting.

I have one and have used it 6 times on a chain that has seen a good amount of use (~16 tanks of gas) on dry standing dead, which tends to wear the chain (IMO) more than green wood.

My concern is how often might I have to replace that $20 cutter.
 
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I have only used my Timberline a time or two, and it does sharpen the saw quickly. Getting the set-up down pat is the key. Here is a link to a video on how to set the sharpener up on your saw. The carbide will hold up for YEARS if you use it properly, a dab of oil every now and then (very light machine oil) will help the cutter last even longer, but it will make it all oily and messy. The carbide replacement cutters are available from Timberline for a reasonable price. Wouldn't hurt to buy one or two extra if you are using the Timberline often. This is a GREAT field sharpening tool, if you really 'dick' your chain up on a rock out in the woods, it makes quick work out of taking a lot of meat off of the cutters in a hurry.

 
I was hoping to see a post from someone who wore out a cutter. Maybe no one has, as of yet.

The machine oil every so often is good advice that I had not thought of.

Oily mess? I can not imagine anyone who screws with chainsaws a lot being too concerned about that.
 
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i found out the hard way how brittle the carbide is. i got the timberline and a couple different size carbide cutters for multiple size chain. i got set up and going good with the first size. next day went to do the other size and butterfingered the carbide on my concrete shop floor. it snapped in two pieces. i still need to order another carbide bit. i hate mistakes that i could have prevented and cost me $$
 
The carbide will hold up for YEARS if you use it properly, a dab of oil every now and then (very light machine oil) will help the cutter last even longer, but it will make it all oily and messy.
Wouldn't the resident chain oil on the chain have the same effect?
 
Wouldn't the resident chain oil on the chain have the same effect?
Not necessarily. A drop of machine oil on each cutter as you sharpen the chain (esp. for REALLY bad chains) makes a big difference in the way the carbide cuts, try it once. Keep in mind fellas, that if you are sharpening a chain for the first time with the timberline, it will take a while to get the carbide to fit perfectly as each cutter on your chain (being sharpened by a different means previously) will have to be reshaped by the carbide cutter. Once you get a good sharpening done with the timberline, it will be a lot faster the next time you sharpen said chain.
 
Not necessarily. A drop of machine oil on each cutter as you sharpen the chain (esp. for REALLY bad chains) makes a big difference in the way the carbide cuts, try it once. Keep in mind fellas, that if you are sharpening a chain for the first time with the timberline, it will take a while to get the carbide to fit perfectly as each cutter on your chain (being sharpened by a different means previously) will have to be reshaped by the carbide cutter. Once you get a good sharpening done with the timberline, it will be a lot faster the next time you sharpen said chain.
That explains the uneven sharpening I'm getting. Thanks.
 
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Very happy with it. Similar to the Gamn' system which I used for many years until I couldn't find replacement burrs. Because of this I'd recommend once it becomes your sharpening system you stock up on cutters.
 
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Just got my Timberline today--I must say I'm impressed. It is a well-made little gizmo. I only sharpened one chain, but it did a very nice job and also let me know how far off my hand filing is. The chain was fairly new and in good shape, but I thought it would be a good one to start with. A few drops of oil, as Scott suggested, worked well. Time will tell, but so far so good!
 
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