I broke my 52i! Help!

[Randy Fischer]

Greetings All,
Stove was due for a minor cleaning, so did all the obvious stuff. Removed the plate under the burn pot and vacumed it out best I could. For the first time, got my nose down close and tried to see how dirty it was up in there and saw that there was a metal plate with a latch holding the igniter in place. Of course I slide the latch open and it came out and was able to see the igniter and saw that it was pretty clean (stove only 4 months old). Hit it with the vacume just to be sure and then went to put latch back on. OMG, what a freakin PITA, stupid thing would not go back on. Anyone else have this issue? An hour later, I finally got the thing back on by bending one of the metal tabs the the latch plate slightly.

Now for the kicker, during the fight, I dropped the igniter out and then put it back in a few times. It seems like it only goes in one way. Now everything is clean and back together and go to start it up in room mode and walk away. Come back in 10 minutes and I have no power light and the stove is dead. Checked the breakers and none are tripped. (note: stove is plugged in a plug built in to the back of the enclosure behind the zero clearance box, no UPS, no surge protecter. No lectures, I found out after it was too late and have not addressed it yet).

Why would moving the igniter kill the power to the stove?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Did you twist the wires?

I don't know about those finned ones but with the cartridge heater version you have to make sure you don't twist the leads because of how they are insulated next to the heater.

 

[Randy Fischer]

Did you twist the wires?

I don't know about those finned ones but with the cartridge heater version you have to make sure you don't twist the leads because of how they are insulated next to the heater.

I didnt twist on purpose, but did not take care to not cross them either. Is it ok for the igniter to touch the metal of the burn pot. Sure seemed like it was.

 

[bags]

Was your stove unplugged when you did the clean? Did you happen to pull any other wires loose? You really didn't need to take the igniter out but just get the junk out of that area. I am not familiar with your model at all. If you did this and it was plugged in you could have shorted something possibly. Check everything over to see if something came loose or inspect to be sure it's getting electric.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Was your stove unplugged when you did the clean? Did you happen to pull any other wires loose? You really didn't need to take the igniter out but just get the junk out of that area. I am not familiar with your model at all. If you did this and it was plugged in you could have shorted something possibly. Check everything over to see if something came loose or inspect to be sure it's getting electric.

With the unit off, cold, and UNPLUGGED

 

[Randy Fischer]

Was your stove unplugged when you did the clean? Did you happen to pull any other wires loose? You really didn't need to take the igniter out but just get the junk out of that area. I am not familiar with your model at all. If you did this and it was plugged in you could have shorted something possibly. Check everything over to see if something came loose or inspect to be sure it's getting electric.

Stove was not uplugged, but was in off mode. The wires did not come off. The igniter kinda fell out of the igniter box and I just put it back in.

 

[bags]

FYI, Always unplug it when you do any cleaning. How did the igniter just kinda fall out? Or was that after you undid things? Have you turned it off and tried again? Only other thing I can say is maybe a manual reset where you unplug the stove and plug it back in. Look at the trouble shooting stuff in your manual. It gives different situations and what to do.

 

[Randy Fischer]

I undid the little latch plate that holds the igniter in and had a hard time getting it back on. In the process the fiddling with it the igniter dropped out a few times. The stove is plugged in to a plug behind the insert, however it is on a wall switch, of course tried the switch a few times. Anyone know if there is a reset switch or fuse on the controller board of a 52i?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Look here https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/harmon-xxv-not-working.79006/#post-1011754 to find out where that fuse is located.

 

[rona]

I undid the little latch plate that holds the igniter in and had a hard time getting it back on. In the process the fiddling with it the igniter dropped out a few times. The stove is plugged in to a plug behind the insert, however it is on a wall switch, of course tried the switch a few times. Anyone know if there is a reset switch or fuse on the controller board of a 52i?

look for a 6 amp fuse on the back of the control board. Menards either has them or you can order them from the store. Much cheaper then Harman.

 

[Randy Fischer]

look for a 6 amp fuse on the back of the control board. Menards either has them or you can order them from the store. Much cheaper then Harman.

Will do folks, thanks. I would not have guessed the igniter and\or wires would be so delicate. Would you think I should remove the igniter and ensure it goes back in properly? Is there a trick in getting it just right?

 

[bags]

The igniter goes in one way only on most stoves. It mounts up where it's supposed to. Shouldn't be hard to figure it out. You should maybe take pictures and label things to avoid confusion and really read up a lot and such before diving in head first. Your stove being 4 months old you should only have to do the recommended cleanings and feed it pellets. Another words, don't fix it if it isn't broken.

Study up and really familiarize yourself. Read anything and everything you can. Spend time here researching. Many how to do's and great tips and advice. Ask people here stuff after that if you are unclear or have concerns. Good Luck! Let us know what you did.

 

[Harman Lover 007]

slide the stove out on the rails and check and see if you have power in your power supply.

 

[bags]

I see you have the three guys you need here already keeping an eye on you. It's the other three than me FYI. I've learned a bunch from these guys so work with them and do what they ask and recommend. They will get you squared away.

 

[F4jock]

As stated above check the fuse. If you need one auto parts store should have. Buy several. As Smokey said, before you fire the thing back up be SURE you haven't shorted the ignighter wires!

Next question: Do you have a VOM?

 

[Randy Fischer]

As stated above check the fuse. If you need one auto parts store should have. Buy several. As Smokey said, before you fire the thing back up be SURE you haven't shorted the ignighter wires!

Next question: Do you have a VOM?

Removed the control board, blown 6 amp fuse. Have replacements already. The question I need help with is is there a particular way this igniter is held in place? I was very careful to notice how it was positioned. I believe my stove (new model, 4 months old) my be different than some of yours. The igniter is held in place with a latch plate, when removed, it just drops out. (No tools required) Should it not be touching any of the burn pot metal when installed? Yes, have volt meter, however, had foot surgery recently and am on crutches, so not easy to maneuver!

 

[F4jock]

It's OK for the igniter itself to touch metal, it's the wires themselves that cannot, nor can the wires at the base of the igniter or anywhere else touch each other.

 

[Randy Fischer]

It's OK for the igniter itself to touch metal, it's the wires themselves that cannot, nor can the wires at the base of the igniter or anywhere else touch each other.

Reinstalled igniter and fuse, applied power and blew fuse again. Igniter wires all looked good, no exposed conductors, crimps or sharp bends. This freakin latch idea is a real looser, what a PITA.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Having never had a stove with an igniter. I'm perfectly comfortable using jelled firestarter myself..... aka: Sterno. Such convenience.

 

[Randy Fischer]

This freakin latch idea is a real looser, what a PITA.[/quote]

 

[Randy Fischer]

Took igniter out again and slid insulation back. Anyone know if one of the leads is supposed to be attached to the body like in the pic? Or possibly it arced and welded itself?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Leads do not touch the body of the igniter.

 

[F4jock]

View attachment 149574 Took igniter out again and slid insulation back. Anyone know if one of the leads is supposed to be attached to the body like in the pic? Or possibly it arced and welded itself?

Probably the ground problem. Can you put a VOM across it and check resistance? Also, can you disconnect and CAREFULLY try to momentarily energize w/o igniter? Leads should both come out center of igniter only. Or CAREFULLY get wire away from body and try again and I hope you have the thing unplugged while your messing with it. Will insulation boot slip back over that spot and stay? If so do that.

 

[F4jock]

Leads do not touch the body of the igniter.

Sure they do Smokey, if you wanna ground the thing, short it, and blow a fuse. . . . .

 

[Randy Fischer]

Probably the ground problem. Can you put a VOM across it and check resistance? Also, can you disconnect and CAREFULLY try to momentarily energize w/o igniter? Leads should both come out center of igniter only. Or CAREFULLY get wire away from body and try again and I hope you have the thing unplugged while your messing with it. Will insulation boot slip back over that spot?

i don't want to pull the insert to disconnect the igniter as I'm hopping around on one foot due to being on crutches and I don't have a rail kit yet. Insulation will slip back down ok. Power is off. This would be AC right? You would need a return path, so makes sense to me that the wires would not touch body. Geesh, this is pretty low tech, can't believe they have not figured out a way to control these leads better.