I need a good axe

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Rich L

Minister of Fire
Jan 25, 2008
861
Eastern,Ma.
g-mail.com
These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.I need a durable wood handle axe for splitting.Any suggestions?
 
I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood. It is (was) designed to limb or set spring boards. Even the best handled axe will not last as long as the handle in a splitting tool although they do look something like an axe they are two diffrent tools. Use an axe for limbing and notching and a splitting tool for.........
Good luck,
Mike
 
Rich L said:
These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.I need a durable wood handle axe for splitting.Any suggestions?

Rich,

As Mike said, an axe is a cutting tool. Different in many ways from a maul, which is a splitting tool.
Axe: hardened, high carbon steel, acute (sharp) edge angle, used to cut close to perpendicular to wood grain.
Maul: mild steel, obtuse edge angle, used to split parallel to wood grain, pounds heavier than an axe, with longer handle.

An axe can be used to split kindling. Beyond that, it's very dangerous for splitting. I've seen what an axe can do the leg bone of a very experienced woodsman, who had one pop right through a log and proceed to his lower leg. Just about severed it.

A maul transfers much more energy into spreading the fibers, and the long handle is a Very Good Thing.

The maul has evolved over time, and my favorite form after 35 yrs is the trad. 6 lb. head on a hickory handle. Interestingly, the 8 lb. works better for me on the easier-to-split pieces. I can get more speed on the 6-pounder, and have more control. My older son learned how to use a 6-pounder efficiently in one day, during which he did destroy the handle. (Replacement handle only cost a couple $ and lasted me about 8 years; busted hickory burns great.) Figure that your first handle, or maybe two, will be learning-aids.

Once you get used to it, a maul can be faster than a hydraulic splitter. Smells much better, too.
 
I don't know how many cord I've split with my 8# maul over the 8-10 years I've had it, but the handle shows no signs of giving up the ghost.

When I was a kid I'd bust handles off all the time- I think my aim has just gotten better. (and I come down squarely on the sharp maul side of the sharp/dull argument)

Work smarter, not harder.
 
Now wait a moment,,,


All I use are axe's

Helko Vario 2000 Heavy Splitting Axe - 2300G

Helko Vario Scandinavian Splitting Axe - 1600G

Fiskars Super Splitting Axe 28" Handle
 
mtarbert said:
I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood. It is (was) designed to limb or set spring boards. Even the best handled axe will not last as long as the handle in a splitting tool although they do look something like an axe they are two diffrent tools. Use an axe for limbing and notching and a splitting tool for.........
Good luck,
Mike

hmmm I can think of three axes that excel at splitting wood. Here's one with a wooden handle:
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/14661 Helko Vario 1600G 3.5lb head 30" hickory handle
Although, at $70 it's pricey to me. That does come with an aluminum overstrike protector, which is a good idea.

For around $40, I prefer the Fiskars unbreakable handled splitting axes, although nothing is truly unbreakable I think it's very durable.
I haven't broken mine yet and I have racked it on some oak splits pretty hard. I have bounced it off of Sycamore and Willow Oak which
are the toughest rounds I have personally tackled. I think the Fiskars Finn engineering and steel is superior to the Germans, but that's an opinion.

Also, if you win the lottery there's always the Gransfors Bruks splitting axes. They are made in Sweden IIRC..even more crazy Scandinavians!
 
mtarbert said:
I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood.

Hmmm a felling axe would fit your description but I think its pretty common knowledge that a splitting axe like the fiskars excels at splitting. You wont get a wood handle, if you want a nice curved hickory handle look at the Helko like posted above.

I'd probably already have the Helko 2300g heavy splitting axe except that its been out of stock for months...
 
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
mtarbert said:
I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood.

Hmmm a felling axe would fit your description but I think its pretty common knowledge that a splitting axe like the fiskars excels at splitting. You wont get a wood handle, if you want a nice curved hickory handle look at the Helko like posted above.

I'd probably already have the Helko 2300g heavy splitting axe except that its been out of stock for months...

If you get one you wont regret it.....
 
southbound said:
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
ss="spellchecked_word">mtarbert</SPAN> said:
I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood.

ss="spellchecked_word">Hmmm</SPAN> a felling axe would fit your description but I think its pretty common knowledge that a splitting axe like the ss="spellchecked_word">fiskars</SPAN> excels at splitting. You wont get a wood handle, if you want a nice curved hickory handle look at the ss="spellchecked_word">Helko</SPAN> like posted above.

I'd probably already have the ss="spellchecked_word">Helko</SPAN> ss="spellchecked_word">2300g</SPAN> heavy splitting axe except that its been out of stock for months...

If you get one you wont regret it.....

Lets see some pic's of your Bad @ss ax's
 
here is one I built...


DSC02305.jpg


DSC02307.jpg


Custom wiring and all...
 
southbound said:
here is one I built...


DSC02305.jpg


DSC02307.jpg


Custom wiring and all...

Nice will be milling ash tuesday for couple benchs and you guess it Ax bodys....I will get some pic's.
 
southbound said:
Wait not what you wanted right...

DSC04161.jpg


DSC04162.jpg
Ya now that looks like something that can deal with me.I just put in a call to Fiskars to see where in my area I can get my hands on their new 36" handle axe.Those other European brands sound interesting also.Thanks for the intel.
 
southbound said:
Wait not what you wanted right...

DSC04161.jpg


DSC04162.jpg

I like the first one better. (Nice Work) Wish we live closer...... Milling just got CXL for tuesday!
 
smokinjay said:
I like the first one better...

I like the scandinavian splitter too (the first one). And that one you can actually get (the other has been out of stock for quite some time). I worry about it being a lightweight though...

I thought the 2300g was perfect - just a little heavier than the fiskars, but the scandinavian is a whole pound lighter.

Southbound, how does the lighter weight scandinavian compare to the fiskars? Is it worth holding out for the 2300g? Will either handle larger rounds, say 20" diameter up to 20-24" length cherry, oak, and locust? I've had plenty of rounds that size (and smaller) that I could not split with an 8# maul, so no biggie, they go into a stack and maybe once a year when I get a large stack going, and then bring in a whole other truckload, I rent a splitter and get it all done in a day. Just curious how much those can handle. I dont expect any axe to split better than a maul, more like nearly as good - but alot easier to swing.

It hasnt been mentioned yet but for a more Fiskars-like equivelent Helko also has the Tomahawk series with nearly indestructable handles, just a tad longer than the fiskars(31.5", so like between the two).
81250new.jpg

And the nice thing is they a piece of cake to swap out handles and heads, and you can even swap between the hickory and composite too, felling axes, splitters, even hatchets.

Rich L said:
These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.

Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
 
There is no one to end all here..

In small strait grain I will pull out the Fiskars............. That right I use it..

Now for the big stuff I run strait for the 2300 every time....

When I get in some twisted or stringy stuff out comes the Scandinavian splitter...

Just like saws a man will need more then one.... Heck if I have to I will bust out the maul and wedges.....
 
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
smokinjay said:
I like the first one better...

I like the scandinavian splitter too (the first one). And that one you can actually get (the other has been out of stock for quite some time). I worry about it being a lightweight though...

I thought the 2300g was perfect - just a little heavier than the fiskars, but the scandinavian is a whole pound lighter.

Southbound, how does the lighter weight scandinavian compare to the fiskars? Is it worth holding out for the 2300g? Will either handle larger rounds, say 20" diameter up to 20-24" length cherry, oak, and locust? I've had plenty of rounds that size (and smaller) that I could not split with an 8# maul, so no biggie, they go into a stack and maybe once a year when I get a large stack going, and then bring in a whole other truckload, I rent a splitter and get it all done in a day. Just curious how much those can handle. I dont expect any axe to split better than a maul, more like nearly as good - but alot easier to swing.

It hasnt been mentioned yet but for a more Fiskars-like equivelent Helko also has the Tomahawk series with nearly indestructable handles, just a tad longer than the fiskars(31.5", so like between the two).
81250new.jpg

And the nice thing is they a piece of cake to swap out handles and heads, and you can even swap between the hickory and composite too, felling axes, splitters, even hatchets.

Rich L said:
These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.

Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?
 
Rich L said:
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
Rich L said:
These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.

Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?
I soak mine all in Boiled Linseed Oil for a day or two.
 
Danno can probably explain better than I since I've never had to do it but the linseed oil is suppose to swell the wood making it tight again. I have had a wooden handled axle (I think its a true temper) for 10 years and it has never loosened, so I've never tried it; I wonder if I ought to do it occasionaly just as preventative maintanence? My maul is synthetic handle.
 
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
Danno can probably explain better than I since I've never had to do it but the linseed oil is suppose to swell the wood making it tight again. I have had a wooden handled axle (I think its a true temper) for 10 years and it has never loosened, so I've never tried it; I wonder if I ought to do it occasionaly just as preventative maintanence? My maul is synthetic handle.
I didn't wait until it was loose on mine, I did it right after installing the new handle. When i do it to mine I just put some BLO into a gallon ziploc, then put the head of the axe/maul in there tie it up with some string or duct tape or whatever can keep the bag on. The wood swells a little and then hardens substantially. I don't know if I'll have to repeat this ever or not. It should last years at least.
 
Danno77 said:
Rich L said:
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
Rich L said:
These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.

Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?
I soak mine all in Boiled Linseed Oil for a day or two.
Danno,does that mean you boil the oil then put the axe heads in the hot oil or let it cool then put them in.What's the reason for the boil ?Regards Rich.
 
Rich L said:
Danno77 said:
Rich L said:
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
Rich L said:
These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.

Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?
I soak mine all in Boiled Linseed Oil for a day or two.
Danno,does that mean you boil the oil then put the axe heads in the hot oil or let it cool then put them in.What's the reason for the boil ?Regards Rich.
BLO comes from the store that way. Not warm, not heated by me. Costs about 8 bucks at my wal-mart:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...log_result&ct=image&resnum=5&ved=0CEUQ8gIwBA#
 
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:
Danno can probably explain better than I since I've never had to do it but the linseed oil is suppose to swell the wood making it tight again. I have had a wooden handled axle (I think its a true temper) for 10 years and it has never loosened, so I've never tried it; I wonder if I ought to do it occasionaly just as preventative maintanence? My maul is synthetic handle.

What's the brand of your 10 year old axe that has never loosened?That's pretty outstanding.I just put in a order with my local ACE hardware for the new 36" handle FISKAR axe.I was told it won't be in till 1/17/2011.Tomorrow I get the Linseed oil.I'll report the results.Take Care.
 
Rich L said:
What's the brand of your 10 year old axe that has never loosened?That's pretty outstanding.I just put in a order with my local ACE hardware for the new 36" handle FISKAR axe.I was told it won't be in till 1/17/2011.Tomorrow I get the Linseed oil.I'll report the results.Take Care.

Its a true temper, was fairly cheap I think. It hasnt seen much use though; up until a couple years ago all I had was a fireplace and I'd split up the small stuff with it. Now that I am processing wood, I mainly use the maul, but if I'm tired I'll grab the axe still for all the smaller stuff. Probably wont use it much ever again since I do plan on getting either a fiskars or helko soon.
 
Fiskars left me a message saying the new 36"fiskars can be ordered at your local ACE hardware.So I went to my local ACE and ordered one.I was told it will be in the store 1/17/2011 for $50.00.I'm like a kid at Christmas time.Now I'll see what all the noise is about when I attack some need splitting maple rounds though the big test will be that quarter cord of Elm rounds that keeps laughing at me.
 
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