Install ?

[CJRages]

We have an Jotul Oslo F500 that is awaiting installation. The house used to have a prefab zero clearance fireplace that was removed and destroyed two weeks ago. That was a awesome project!


Anyway, my question relates to the chimney set up...

We are planning to top vent the stove using double wall stove pipe up approx 20" before taking a 90 degree bend through the brick wall behind the stove. Behind this brick wall is a chase running up the side of the house. Some wood framing behind the brick will have to be redone to allow the required 6 or 8" clearance around the pipe. The double wall stove pipe will then enter a Class A stainless "T" and up the remaining 18 ft of Class A to the rain-cap.

My question is this: How do I properly seal off around the pipe where it goes through the brick wall. Also the old fireplace opening is going to be right behind the wood stove - what is the proper way to seal this off, but still retain access to the "T" so that my new stovepipe can be cleaned out periodically.

Thanks for the help!

 

[flusher17]

Generally, if you are using 2 wall insulated pipe for the chimney you only a couple of inches clearance to the wood framing in the chase.

I would seal off the through-the-wall hole with a thimble that you can buy with the chimney pipe.

To close in the old chimney hole, it depends on the type of wall construction. In a stick framed home you can fill it in with metal studs, attach hardie backer and then tile, brick or cultured stone, etc. On the outside then insulated and cover with matching siding.

 

[DAKSY]

You can't use the double-wall connector to pass thru the wall.
The first penetration MUST be Class A chimney, as well as everything from there to the cap.
The approved wall pass-thru that fits whatever Class A you're installing will have all
required clearances built into it.
Done right it'll be a safe install...NOT done right...Bye-bye...

 

[VTHC]

We did a similar setup in replacing our heatilator fireplace, except our stovepipe connects to a liner in a masonry chimney. As stated by others, using an approved UL listed pass-thru/thimble will get you all the correct clearances (if installed to spec). I can't get to my "T" and need to remove the double wall pipe when cleaning, but there wasn't much alternative...

As far as the fireplace opening - I used metal studs to frame-in the firebox opening and attached 1/2" durock over the studs after i sealed/insulated the old fireplace damper. I overlapped the brick facade on either side of the firebox opening by 1.5' or so, and then built some built-in bookcases. I used tapcon masonry screws to fasten the durock to the masonry. I tiled over the durock with with regular thinset, and I continued the durock/tile onto the floor for a hearthpad. came out pretty good... With the firebox "hole" behind the tile/durock clearances can be reduced because there is no combustible material.

 

[CJRages]

You can't use the double-wall connector to pass thru the wall.
The first penetration MUST be Class A chimney, as well as everything from there to the cap.

DASKY,

Your statement leads be to believe that all wall pass through setups MUST be Class A chimney through a thimble regardless of whether the wall is combustible or not? The reason I'm asking is - my FIL has his stove pipe going through a concrete basement wall without any thimble and not using class A. There is unfaced fiberglass insulation surrounding the pipe to make the hole "air tight". Is that a violation of code?

If a thimble is required then that's what will be done.

Thanks.

 

[CJRages]

We did a similar setup in replacing our heatilator fireplace, except our stovepipe connects to a liner in a masonry chimney. As stated by others, using an approved UL listed pass-thru/thimble will get you all the correct clearances (if installed to spec). I can't get to my "T" and need to remove the double wall pipe when cleaning, but there wasn't much alternative...

I know what you mean... I'd really like to keep access to the "T" - but not sure how that could be facilitated. Maybe some hinges and lots of insulation? :lol:

As far as the fireplace opening - I used metal studs to frame-in the firebox opening and attached 1/2" durock over the studs after i sealed/insulated the old fireplace damper. I overlapped the brick facade on either side of the firebox opening by 1.5' or so, and then built some built-in bookcases. I used tapcon masonry screws to fasten the durock to the masonry. I tiled over the durock with with regular thinset, and I continued the durock/tile onto the floor for a hearthpad. came out pretty good... With the firebox "hole" behind the tile/durock clearances can be reduced because there is no combustible material.

Nice work. I like the tile overlay and I'm sure that those bookshelves come in handy.