installed with a problem...

[beermann]

To keep it short the liner is attached to my insert. But to reach the connection i had to recesse my insert (regency i1100s) and this is not optimal because I cannot open my vents over about 1/4 open.......

My first solution was to remove bricks in front of the liner but I cannot remove these bricks in front of the liner because they are structural.

My second solution was to attach single walled elbows from the flue connection towards the back of the fireplace.....but I can't use elbows off the flue connector because I don't have enough room inside the masonry fireplace.

My third solution is to bring some parts and some measurements to a fabrication shop and fabricate an offset flue adapter. This is just very costly and out of my budget for the rest of the year.....

My last option is to bring in a masonry guy to work on the bottom left of my fireplace to allow my vent handle to slide 100% open....again it's a budget thing....

Now my questions for you all.

What do you think is a possible solution, you may have a different idea I didn't think of.

And for experience wood burners. Is it reasonable for me to think I can start a burn with the door partially open to allow for full airflow....i would just close the handle slightly so it would leave a small opening along the edge if the door. Less that 1/4". Then after 10 minutes of burning with a partially open door....i close the door and burn with my vents being almost completely closed. About 3/4 way closed.

 

[bholler]

To keep it short the liner is attached to my insert. But to reach the connection i had to recesse my insert (regency i1100s) and this is not optimal because I cannot open my vents over about 1/4 open.......

My first solution was to remove bricks in front of the liner but I cannot remove these bricks in front of the liner because they are structural.

My second solution was to attach single walled elbows from the flue connection towards the back of the fireplace.....but I can't use elbows off the flue connector because I don't have enough room inside the masonry fireplace.

My third solution is to bring some parts and some measurements to a fabrication shop and fabricate an offset flue adapter. This is just very costly and out of my budget for the rest of the year.....

My last option is to bring in a masonry guy to work on the bottom left of my fireplace to allow my vent handle to slide 100% open....again it's a budget thing....

Now my questions for you all.

What do you think is a possible solution, you may have a different idea I didn't think of.

And for experience wood burners. Is it reasonable for me to think I can start a burn with the door partially open to allow for full airflow....i would just close the handle slightly so it would leave a small opening along the edge if the door. Less that 1/4". Then after 10 minutes of burning with a partially open door....i close the door and burn with my vents being almost completely closed. About 3/4 way closed.

Some pics may let us help you more

 

[begreen]

For the last option I'm not sure why a mason would be needed to make the notch for the air control. An angle grinder with a masonry wheel should do the trick pretty quickly.

 

[Hogwildz]

Can you notch out the bricks enough to let the liner pass through? Combine that with a 30 degree elbow, and that may get you want you need?
There are offset flue adapters available, but they make for restriction of draft flow & not as easy cleaning.
Not familiar with this insert, some photos would help.

 

[beermann]

Some pics may let us help you more

Yes sir I agree. My computer is out of action and my Samsung a5 won't post pictures on this forum. I'd get what I need for the computer but I'm broke.

 

[Hogwildz]

Looking at the manual for that model, the left handle has two available spring handles, a large and a small. Would the smaller one, give you more maneuverability?

 

[beermann]

For the last option I'm not sure why a mason would be needed to make the notch for the air control. An angle grinder with a masonry wheel should do the trick pretty quickly.

I'm not sure about structural integrity.

 

[Hogwildz]

If you can email your photos to me, I'll post them for you. PM me for the addy

 

[begreen]

I'm not sure about structural integrity.

Shouldn't be an issue I would think.

 

[beermann]

Can you notch out the bricks enough to let the liner pass through? Combine that with a 30 degree elbow, and that may get you want you need?
There are offset flue adapters available, but they make for restriction of draft flow & not as easy cleaning.
Not familiar with this insert, some photos would help.

If i can get pictures to post I'll do it.

 

[beermann]

Shouldn't be an issue I would think.

I am on the same though as you but I just don't know enough to be 100% sure.

 

[begreen]

I am pretty sure, but it's hard to say over the internet, especially without visuals. If you want to post a picture we can try to verify.

 

[beermann]

I am pretty sure. If you want to post a picture we can try to verify.

Hogwildz is helping me with pictures

 

[beermann]

Looking at the manual for that model, the left handle has two available spring handles, a large and a small. Would the smaller one, give you more maneuverability?

Currently have the spring handle off

 

[Hogwildz]

Photos & more info from beermann:

Some notes:

- Nothing is secured together yet
- I need to bring the unit approximately 7" forward to be able to secure the surround
- the brick in front of the liner is strcutual and cannot be removed.
- if I pull the unit forward too hard it will damage the liner. It has no wiggle room...I did try yo pull it forward a little and as a result I had to push more liner down and cut the damaged section.
- the damper sections have been removed out of the way

Thanks

 

[Hogwildz]

I wonder if 2- 30 or 45 degree elbows with a small sections of rigid or flex will get you where you need to be.

 

[Hogwildz]

Do you have a shroud that will fit that arched opening?

 

[beermann]

I wonder if 2- 30 or 45 degree elbows with a small sections of rigid or flex will get you where you need to be.

tried this idea with 90° and it was a disaster. Different angles may work better.....

What you saying is attach one to the liner and use an additional liner as a middle section to the next angle and into the top we go

 

[beermann]

Do you have a shroud that will fit that arched opening?

Shroud...like that metal trim that screw onto the side of the insert? Yes but it is a little short on the top. I am planning on covering the front of the fireplace with ledgestone so it comes flush with the shroud/metal trim that attaches to the side of the insert.....

 

[Hogwildz]

tried this idea with 90° and it was a disaster. Different angles may work better.....

What you saying is attach one to the liner and use an additional liner as a middle section to the next angle and into the top we go

Kind of, I would use a section of rigid between the elbows, then the liner down to the upper elbow.

You can buy some cheap galv 6" adjustable elbows and a pc of straight at the nearest big box store, and use them as a mock up to figure what degree elbows & length of straight pipe you need, then when you have that figured out, order the actual S.S. parts you will need to do the actual install.

 

[Hogwildz]

Shroud...like that metal trim that screw onto the side of the insert? Yes but it is a little short on the top. I am planning on covering the front of the fireplace with ledgestone so it comes flush with the shroud/metal trim that attaches to the side of the insert.....

Damn shame. That arch is cool. Just a thought, but maybe you can fab a pc of sheet metal at an arch, paint it black and fasten it to the top of the top insert shroud and keep the arch shape? Just a thought, everyone has their likes of course.

 

[beermann]

Damn shame. That arch is cool. Just a thought, but maybe you can fab a pc of sheet metal at an arch, paint it black and fasten it to the top of the top insert shroud and keep the arch shape? Just a thought, everyone has their likes of course.

Well it's not out yet. As my wife and I sat there looking at it earlier today we thought it looked really good.RRight now we are still open to do anything. Even just ideas on how to make the current set up work. I don't think it looks bad recessed like this. It's just not functional.

On a side note I didn't cap off the top and I still have 8+ feet sticking out from the top of the chimney. No problems if it's raining and not cut and capped?

 

[beermann]

Damn shame. That arch is cool. Just a thought, but maybe you can fab a pc of sheet metal at an arch, paint it black and fasten it to the top of the top insert shroud and keep the arch shape? Just a thought, everyone has their likes of course.

Photos & more info from beermann:

Some notes:

- Nothing is secured together yet
- I need to bring the unit approximately 7" forward to be able to secure the surround
- the brick in front of the liner is strcutual and cannot be removed.
- if I pull the unit forward too hard it will damage the liner. It has no wiggle room...I did try yo pull it forward a little and as a result I had to push more liner down and cut the damaged section.
- the damper sections have been removed out of the way

Thanks

One thought is to drill a hole straigjt through the bricks on the left where the draft rod is. Attach an additonal rod through this hole and onto the draft rod.....now I have a draft rod that goes through the bricks and allows me to open and close it 100%

 

[brenndatomu]

As my wife and I sat there looking at it earlier today we thought it looked really good

Agreed.
Also agree with using a combination of 15, 30, or 45* elbows to make this happen...it sure looks to be possible.
How much more room do you need to make that rod operate?

 

[Hogwildz]

If you

Well it's not out yet. As my wife and I sat there looking at it earlier today we thought it looked really good.RRight now we are still open to do anything. Even just ideas on how to make the current set up work. I don't think it looks bad recessed like this. It's just not functional.

On a side note I didn't cap off the top and I still have 8+ feet sticking out from the top of the chimney. No problems if it's raining and not cut and capped?

If you are happy where it sits, hell, take an angle grinder with a diamond blade and cut a notch where the rod needs to slide out to, give yourself the room you need, and be done with it.

You'll be okay open up top for now, but you will want a top plate, storm collar and cap to finish it off.