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Installing Jotul Castine 400

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Gabby12, Dec 11, 2012.

  1. Gabby12

    Gabby12 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Messages:
    65
    Loc:
    Wilm. DE
    I am in the process of building a 24' X 24' family room w/ the corner center piece being a new wood stove.
    I have many things to do but one of them is to build the hearth, wall behind stove and mantle.
    I am envisionsing a hearth abotu 12" high covered with slate.
    I am planning to use the peel and stick stone (thinking field stone look) and about a 12" mantle.

    I wanted to get this thread started to start getting ideas, concerns and do's and don'ts.

    I am planning on running the dbl. wall interior piping (6") straight up from stove to the vaulted ceiling and out the roof - one straight shot.
    By the way, I am not installing due to County Code - Bylers in Dover is doing install and that is also where I am buying the stove.

    Some questions:
    -Should I build the type of back wall with an air space? Seems like more work then nessesary if all my clearancess are good. Why not just do peel and stick stone right to dry wall (or what ever materail I need) to studs.

    -When building Hearth how much over hang/front ledge do you all like in front of your stove.
    My stove will be angled in the corner. Hearth will be square in corner with front cut off at same angle as stove - facing room.

    -Should I plan to install the fresh air feature on the stove?


    I'll have more questions later but this is enough to get some feedback.

    Thanks for eveyrones ideas, opinions and advice.

    BTW -the stove will have a bottom and rear heat shield.

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  2. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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  3. ailanthus

    ailanthus Feeling the Heat

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    Shen Valley, VA
    If you're using the heat shield & double wall stovepipe, the rear clearance, even to combustibles is only 7". That was one of the big reasons I went with the castine because I didn't have a big space to fit it into. With straight pipe and top exiting from the stove, you should have good draft not to mention easy to clean! If you've got a supply of nice dry wood, your gonna love it.
  4. Gabby12

    Gabby12 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
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    65
    Loc:
    Wilm. DE
    Let me state that I can over think things and make them more difficult then needed but without knowing anyone closely that uses a wood stove this is all new to me and when I do something I like to do it right.
    I will be asking some trvial questions and once this process is done I surely will look back and see some questions that were ridiculos but without knowing how to really do what I am doing all the queations will help to put the puzzle together and in a few months we will be sitting in our new room, as a family, doing just that - puzzles by the fire.....:)
    Not to mention - I am sure their are others that can use this info down the road.


    I see what you mean about the peel and stick rocks falling off in time - but if this the case what are people using (type of stone and mortar) because you see this type of decor so often?

    Hearth:
    (Have a tentative stove install of Jan. 8th - so have to get moving on this - FYI live in Delaware and code stats that I can not install stove- need a licensed contractor)
    I plan to make a cut out out of cardboard to be able to see how much space is needed here and there.
    It was mentioned to have 18" in front of stove, and I definitly want to have a decent ledge here, here are my thoughts on building the hearth - please comment:)

    I am going to have a corner of the room dedicated to the stove with a measurment of aprox. 36" to 48" on each side of the room corner.
    So measure out from studded room corner wall one way and then the other.
    I have windows on either side of this corner that are not exactly an equal distance from the corner - so I have to think about taking hearth outside edge to each window rough opening or keep hearth square - not sure what i am going to do here yet - will help once I start laying some measurments out.

    I would like the hearth to be elevated to help with loading of wood - thinking up 12".
    I am thinking framing out base of hearth with a 2X12", I would add a few cross members inside of base to give stove support.
    Do you think having these cross-members set at every 12" would be sufficiant?

    Next is the sub-base to support my slate.
    Should I use just a hardibacker board on top of the 2x12 hearth base then slate? or put down some OSB sheithing (have some laying around from framing building) then hardy board then slate? or just OSB then slate and forgo the hardiboard?
    Once I locate the slate I can get these details but once the sub-base is built, what type of mortor should the slate be set in as well as grout?
    What type of saw blade do I need to cut the slate? - don't have a masonary saw - will be using a carpenter's circular saw if i can.

    Lastly on the hearth build, I was thinking of having an overhang/lip over the 2X12 hearth base of the slate, I guess this will be supported by what every my sub-base is made of but how much overhang is recommendid without setting myself up for a break off of the slate due to no support?
    Was planning on trimming the 2x12 hearth base with some nice type of lumber - something like oak.
    Thinking of trimming windows with a nice wood - will probably keep same type of wood on this hearth base trim cover up.

    Corner Wall Protection:
    If not going the route of building a air gap (1" required on all sides except inside corner by stove manufacure if going this route), should I use a hardy board right up on the rooms 2x6 studs or first drywall the hardiboard - then stone?
    Any other wall build up process I am not thinking of?

    Mantle:
    I am planning on placing a hand made mantle in this corner above the stone wall behind the stove.
    Thinking something around 10-12" deep but understand I need to consider keeping at least 6" from my double wall stove pipe.
    I don't think the mantle/stove pipe dimensions will be the stove placement dictating factor, I think the actual stove corner to wall will be the main measurment factors.
    Above the mantle I am not think of running with more stone, got some ideas of a differant look using wood trim possiably.
    Just mentioning so you have a better picture of what is in my head and to get feedback if there is something I am missing.
  5. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    You want to use 3/4" OSB, then backer.
    Yes, 16" would be just fine to.
    The stone won't fall off, they are not glued on, but instead mortared on. You said peel and stick which lead to some confusion. They are often called lick and stick stones, to be correct they are referred to as stone veneer. If there is no drywall there currently then Just hang backer on the studs but if it's drywalled I wouldn't pull it down, just hang the backer over it. Then you will need to apply wire mesh to the surface before applying stone. They make a special mortar for stone veneer, the big box stores carry it. The same mortar can be used for the scratch coat. Although, if you cut the drywall back, then you could run the veneer over the edge of the drywall a bit, then there would be no need for trim, you could just mortar the gap.
  6. Gabby12

    Gabby12 New Member

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    Mar 8, 2012
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    Loc:
    Wilm. DE
    Since we are clarifying (and please do so when you see me not using proper terminogly) please clarify the name of the product of the backer board.
    I've heard cement board, hardy board etc. and can this be bought a big box store?
  7. firefighterjake

    firefighterjake Minister of Fire

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    Random thoughts . . .

    You definitely want 18 inches in the front of the stove to meet the code requirements . . . and you will appreciate all 18 inches should a hot coal ever spill out, and hop, skip and jump across that hearth towards the nearby wood or rug-covered floor. Honestly, sometimes I wish I had built an even bigger front of the hearth so my cats could lie down on it, wet boots and gloves could be placed there, etc . . . OK, I lie . . . it wouldn't be for the cats . . . it would be for me to lie down.

    Elevated hearth . . . a lot of folks have 'em and really like 'em. If I was to do this again I would give strong consideration into making an elevated hearth.

    Floor . . . I would go with a thick plywood, followed by 1/2 inch Durock and then your slate/tile . . . lessen the chances of any flex which could crack the slate/tile.
  8. Gabby12

    Gabby12 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
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    65
    Loc:
    Wilm. DE
    Woo Hoo - Addition Framing inspection passed yesterday.
    Now to the next step - house wrap and install windows and begin layout of stove.

    Started to lay out some 2x's to get a feel for how big to make hearth.
    Talked to stove dealer and with putting some type of stone finish on the wall behind the stove the stove/hearth is stating to stick out into room pretty good.
    My BIG addition is starting to get filled up

    Correct me if I'm wrong, if I install a cement board directly to my wall 2x6's and then install some type of faux stone, the clearance measuring point from corner of stove to closest combustible is the outside edge of stone.
    At this stone edge I would then need 11" to stove corner on the Jotul Castine w/ rear heat shield and dbl. wall pipe.

    If using a protected surface (1" gap at faux wall top, side and bottom) design I would need 6" from corner of stove from 2x6 wall sheathing.
    Was thinking for this design: drywall on studs, 1" spacers or metal studs then cement board w/ stone attached to cement board.

    I still need to find out thickness dimensions of the stone I am going to use but for calculation purposes I am going to use 4".

    Do these sinerio’s seem correct?

    Unprotected Wall:
    2x6 wall stud - 3/4" cement board + 4" ? stone w/ 11" clearance (closest combustible would then be the face of the cement board) = 15" from face of cement board attached to wall studs


    Protected Wall:
    2X6 wall stud + 1/2 drywall + 1" air gap (via either spacers or metal studs on side) + 3/4" cement board + 4" ? stone w/6" clearance (closest combustible being face of the 1/2 drywall that is attached to wall studs = 6" from face of dry wall attached to wall studs

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