Installing Wood Stove (First Timer)

[krisfromPA]

Hi,

I hope everyone had a good holiday!

I'm trying to install a wood stove and I am running into some issues. Ideally I would like to have the chimney go straight up through the ceiling and roof. I didn't want to do this as we have radiant heat in the ceiling. So then I decided to go out of the wall. Next issue I ran into here is there is a 2 ft soffit overhang over the house. I didn't see an issue with this until I took my stud finder and found that there is a stud directly in the middle of where the chimney would go. I cant move the stove as where it currently sits is where it must be.

Does anyone have any experience going through radiant ceiling heat? What are your thoughts on this?

Can we cut the stud and block it in somehow? If the stud is in the way then the roof stud would be in the way as well which adds to this problem?

Don't be afraid to hurt my feelings, I want this done correctly don't need any house fires!

Thank You
Kris Burns

 

[EatenByLimestone]

would the chimney disturb the radiant heating? The rafters should be able to be cut and supported if you can't go straight up.

 

[krisfromPA]

would the chimney disturb the radiant heating? The rafters should be able to be cut and supported if you can't go straight up.

From my understanding I would have to destroy it by cutting a hole. The radiant heat is why im going with a fireplace as it sucks!

What is better? Reframing trusses or using angles?

 

[DAKSY]

If you have trusses, you can't modify them without an engineer signing off on the plans.
That's the code here in NY, anyway. Offsets in your Class A chimney have a max of 30 degrees
in the US. Each offset (2) will increase the chimney height required for your unit to draft correctly,
but it can be safely done.

 

[krisfromPA]

If you have trusses, you can't modify them without an engineer signing off on the plans.
That's the code here in NY, anyway. Offsets in your Class A chimney have a max of 30 degrees
in the US. Each offset (2) will increase the chimney height required for your unit to draft correctly,
but it can be safely done.

Thank you - I dont want to get into cutting trusses. I would prefer not to modify the structure of my house.

Would I need to use this to get the angle needed to pass the trusses outside behind the soffit?

Is there a rule for how much longer the chimney would need to be?

Home :: Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 10 inch :: DuraVent DuraChimney II 10 :: DuraVent 10" DuraChimney II 30 Degree Elbow - 10DCA-E30

M&G DuraVent 10" DuraChimney II 30 Degree Elbow - 10DCA-E30Use elbows to offset obstructions such as rafters, ridgepoles, or joists. 10"-16" DuraChimney II may have two pair of elbows, if needed. Offsets greater than 30 degrees are not allowed. Elbows are

woodstovepro.com

 

[DAKSY]

This is right out of a Selkirk install manual:

The use of elbows will require approximately 30% to 60% more height to provide for an adequate draft.

Seems a little excessive to me. I would say that EACH 30 offset will reduce your height by one foot minimum.

 

[krisfromPA]

This is right out of a Selkirk install manual:

The use of elbows will require approximately 30% to 60% more height to provide for an adequate draft.

Seems a little excessive to me. I would say that EACH 30 offset will reduce your height by one foot minimum.

That sounds allot better was going to need a 24 ft chimney..

What adapter do you recommend for going trough the soffit? There will be about 6" of chimney passing through the attic to ge through to the roof.

 

[DAKSY]

 

[Caw]

From my understanding I would have to destroy it by cutting a hole. The radiant heat is why im going with a fireplace as it sucks!

What is better? Reframing trusses or using angles?

View attachment 270348

Sorry to side track the thread a bit but is that a FLIR thermal camera? Pretty cool. I've seen the rifle scope which is also extremely awesome/expensive but never the handheld view.

Best of luck on your project!

 

[krisfromPA]

Sorry to side track the thread a bit but is that a FLIR thermal camera? Pretty cool. I've seen the rifle scope which is also extremely awesome/expensive but never the handheld view.

Best of luck on your project!

Sure is, its a pretty cool camera!

 

[krisfromPA]

View attachment 270360

So I need this?

DuraVent DuraPlus Firestop Radiation Shield 6DP-FRS - The Home Depot

DuraPlus is designed to stay cool on the outside, to provide a hot draft on the inside, to boost stove efficiency, and to provide for a fire-safe design that protects both the chimney and the building.

www.homedepot.com

or

DuraVent DuraPlus 6 in. All-Fuel Chimney Attic Insulation Shield 6DP-IS - The Home Depot

DuraPlus is designed to stay cool on the outside, to provide a hot draft on the inside, to boost stove efficiency, and to provide for a fire-safe design that protects both the chimney and the building.

www.homedepot.com

 

[bholler]

Sorry to side track the thread a bit but is that a FLIR thermal camera? Pretty cool. I've seen the rifle scope which is also extremely awesome/expensive but never the handheld view.

Best of luck on your project!

My phone a cat s61 has one built in

 

[DAKSY]

So I need this?

DuraVent DuraPlus Firestop Radiation Shield 6DP-FRS - The Home Depot

DuraPlus is designed to stay cool on the outside, to provide a hot draft on the inside, to boost stove efficiency, and to provide for a fire-safe design that protects both the chimney and the building.

www.homedepot.com

or

DuraVent DuraPlus 6 in. All-Fuel Chimney Attic Insulation Shield 6DP-IS - The Home Depot

DuraPlus is designed to stay cool on the outside, to provide a hot draft on the inside, to boost stove efficiency, and to provide for a fire-safe design that protects both the chimney and the building.

www.homedepot.com

Which ever one will allow you from the lower soffit penetration & into the cone on the flashing.
You may have to cut the top of the shield if the flashing cone is at an angle...

 

[krisfromPA]

Which ever one will allow you from the lower soffit penetration & into the cone on the flashing.
You may have to cut the top of the shield if the flashing cone is at an angle...

Got it thank you

 

[krisfromPA]

Just ran into a problem. I am 2" short for the pipe that is going out of the wall. What are my options with double wall chimney? I currently have 18" pipe and need 20". What do you guys think?